2012 4Runner (5th Gen) Factory Trailer Plug

[msweet]

We are looking forward to picking up a new to us 17B in a few weeks! We are all excited to take it on the first road trip this summer and for all the extended season camping opportunities.

Our tow vehicle will be a 2012 4Runner. Has anyone had any issues with the trailer wiring reaching the factory connection on the 5th gens? The connector is located up and "out of the way" on the drivers side of the spare tire for off-roading ground clearance. The seller has measured the wire and it extends about 2' beyond the ball receptacle on the hitch. It looks like it should work but I want to make sure I am prepared when I arrive to pick it up. I had to MacGyver a 2' extension for my boat trailer the first time I towed it.

Thanks!

[Klem]

Our 05 has it up and under. No problem other then bending over to do it well!

[rubicon327]

Another user that I conversed with before my father picked up our trailer was towing a 19' which he bought new. Has a 5th gen 4Runner and Escape had to extend the harness. We tow with a 4th gen (2007) 4Runner and although the connector is tucked up and over to the driver's side we did not have an issue. I cannot say though if the harness was extended at the factory for the first owner.

To be safe I would pick up a 7 pin extension from a trailer shop and have it with you. If it is long it can always be looped and zipped tied to the trailer frame. If you don't need it, return it. That's what we did.

www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Draw-Tite/20027.html

[Brian B-P]

A just-in-case extension seems like a good idea.

The amount of cord length needed depends on hitch hardware. Some WD and adjustable-height hitches are pretty bulky, and move the trailer back; with just a short fixed ball mount, the distance to the 4Runner's socket would be shorter.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

To be safe I would pick up a 7 pin extension from a trailer shop and have it with you. If it is long it can always be looped and zipped tied to the trailer frame. If you don't need it, return it. That's what we did.

I loop the extra length (of my built-in cord) around the tongue jack.

Originally Posted by rubicon327

www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Draw-Tite/20027.html

That extension works, but it's designed to reach from the bumper of a pickup to near a fifth-wheel hitch, so it's much longer than could be needed to provide a conventional trailer cord with a bit more reach. Also, it has the usual 14-gauge wires for the lighting circuits (that's fine) but only 12-gauge for battery charge and ground - some cables have 10-gauge.

I don't know of a good source of a short heavy-gauge extension (although they exist: Conntek 7-Pin 5Th Wheel Trailer Extension Cord (4-Feet)), but a 7-Way Molded Trailer Wire Connector, 4' Long H20043 plus a socket on the end would work (although it would not be returnable). There are much shorter ready-made extensions - I would just want to check the wire gauge.

[soultrek]

Originally Posted by msweet

Our tow vehicle will be a 2012 4Runner. Has anyone had any issues with the trailer wiring reaching the factory connection on the 5th gens? The connector is located up and "out of the way" on the drivers side of the spare tire for off-roading ground clearance. The seller has measured the wire and it extends about 2' beyond the ball receptacle on the hitch. It looks like it should work but I want to make sure I am prepared when I arrive to pick it up. I had to MacGyver a 2' extension for my boat trailer the first time I towed it.

Thanks!

I have a 2008 17B and a 2011 4-runner. I had to pull most of the slack out of the wire between the hitch and the trailer body, and it works - though there is not much slack left in a tight right turn (but enough). I just measured 2'4" of wire extension beyond the ball receptacle on my trailer. "Out of the way" describes it well - a real PITA to connect, especially when your joints are old and creaky. Great trailer/TV combo though! Hope this helps…Glenn. ( Ps, no WDH )

[Leisure Lee]

hi msweet: I have a 2010 Toyota 4 Runner and purchased a 19 Escape, and when we went to pick it up- there was no way the connection would reach. We went and made a 2 foot 7pin extension and it now works. I agree, the location of the connection is a PITA on my 4 runner and is one of the few issues with the vehicle. I do have a WDH, which I wouldn't be without, and it contributes to the need of the extension. If you don't use a WDH you might be able to manage without an extension, but if you needed it for your boat...

Leisure Lee

[msweet]

Originally Posted by soultrek

Great trailer/TV combo though!

Great to hear that feedback! We bought the 4Runner a few months ago in preparation for buying a camper. Though at that time we were considering tent trailers more seriously and weren't really thinking of the hard side units.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by Leisure Lee

We went and made a 2 foot 7pin extension

Thanks for all the great feedback... this forum is awesome! The unit comes with a WDH so I will likely have the same problem as others. I will make up an extension just in case and then use the wire to extend the trailer wiring if needed when I get the trailer home. If not it never hurts to have a spare wire and plugs in the garage.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The amount of cord length needed depends on hitch hardware. Some WD and adjustable-height hitches are pretty bulky, and move the trailer back; with just a short fixed ball mount, the distance to the 4Runner's socket would be shorter.

Very good point. The other user I conversed with that needed an extension did indeed run with a WDH. We are running a short fixed ball mount and that explains why we didn't need an extension. It had crossed my mind, but I didn't realize that the WD setup moves the trailer back as much as it apparently does.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Very good point. The other user I conversed with that needed an extension did indeed run with a WDH. We are running a short fixed ball mount and that explains why we didn't need an extension. It had crossed my mind, but I didn't realize that the WD setup moves the trailer back as much as it apparently does.

I was able to tow the trailer back with a regular short ball mount without extending the wiring. It handled well but it was empty and there were only 2 passengers in the tow vehicle.

The trailer did come with a Pro Series V-5 / TD0747 / 113913 WDH that I would like to use on longer road trips when we are fully loaded. However the WDH extends the ball-mount back significantly further than the standard ball mount and necessitates extending the wiring. I can rewire the trailer with a new 7-Way Molded Connector w/ 10' Cable from the junction box inside.

Alternately, has anyone ever sourced a shorter stinger for the WDH?

[gbaglo]

Is there any slack in the trailer 7-pin wiring? On mine, I have to take up slack by allowing some sag between the zip ties along the frame.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Is there any slack in the trailer 7-pin wiring? On mine, I have to take up slack by allowing some sag between the zip ties along the frame.

I pulled all the slack out of the trailer wiring and it gave me enough length to connect and make a reasonably sharp right hand turn using the standard ball mount. Unfortunately, there will not be enough slack for the additional 6" to 8" due to the WDH.

The receiver on the 4Runner is integrated into the rear bumper not recessed underneath like most other vehicles (including your RAV4 in the photo). The receiver is actually proud of the rear bumper due to the under-slung spare - see photo (I like to keep my vehicles really clean!). The spare also limits the depth that you can insert the stinger and I can only insert to the first pin hole. Both these combine to extend the ball even further back from the wiring connections. I was hoping that by finding a shorter stinger I could avoid replacing the wires.

[Brian B-P]

Many WD system shanks are relatively crudely fabricated from solid bar, and as long as the reinforcing gusset doesn't run into the receiver opening, you can just drill another hole for the pin at the shorter length (and cut off extra shank length if necessary). Example: Reese 3215. This is often done with plain ball mounts.

The Pro Series heads appear to be designed to work with a cast or forged shank - there only seems to be one choice which is part 63911. With this design (which is certainly better for strength and weight) the pin hole has a specific location and so modification with an additional pin hole seems unlikely to be appropriate. It is possible that even if the standard shank is this design, a plain solid shank may fit and work as well.

Some brands of WD shank are available in multiple lengths, as well as (more commonly) multiple heights.

I can't find "TD0747" or "113913" as a part number for either a Pro Series WD system, or (more likely) just the head or shank, so I have not been able to confirm that it is the cast or forged design, rather than the solid bar.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by msweet

... The spare also limits the depth that you can insert the stinger and I can only insert to the first pin hole.

Ah, two pin holes... like the Reese 54970? The tail of the shank could be cut shorter (by the same amount as the distance between pin holes), although it would not be really quick or easy. Ideally, a bandsaw would be used, with lubricant to avoid excessive heat. Any metal fabrication shop should be able to do this; If I had this situation I wouldn't do it myself, only because I don't have a suitable saw and wouldn't want to do it with a grinder and cutoff wheel. I suppose a reciprocating saw would work, but it might take a bunch of blades...

This configuration of a short receiver socket immediately behind the tire and further back (relative to the bumper) than desired is now pretty well normal for SUVs, since SUV tires have become so large.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Many WD system shanks are relatively crudely fabricated from solid bar, and as long as the reinforcing gusset doesn't run into the receiver opening, you can just drill another hole for the pin at the shorter length (and cut off extra shank length if necessary). Example: Reese 3215. This is often done with plain ball mounts.

The Pro Series heads appear to be designed to work with a cast or forged shank - there only seems to be one choice which is part 63911. With this design (which is certainly better for strength and weight) the pin hole has a specific location and so modification seems unlikely to be appropriate. It is possible that even if the standard shank is this design, a plain solid shank may fit and work as well.

Some brands of WD shank are available in multiple lengths, as well as (more commonly) multiple heights.

I can't find "TD0747" or "113913" as a part number for either a Pro Series WD system, or (more likely) just the head or shank, so I have not been able to confirm that it is the cast or forged design, rather than the solid bar.

Thanks for looking into it Brian! I have attached some photos of the WDH assembly. It looks like a new hole could be drilled further up the shank as you suggest. I can't see any reason why drilling and cutting the shank shorter would affect performance of the WDH. I'll have to drop the spare tire to see how far in it can slide before the taper stops travel and mark a new hole.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Ah, two pin holes... like the Reese 54970?

Very similar - see photos in above post.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by msweet

It looks like a new hole could be drilled further up the shank as you suggest. I can't see any reason why drilling and cutting the shank shorter would affect performance of the WDH.

I agree - that one maintains the thickness of the web well beyond the hole positions, unlike some.

[float5]

That sounds as if it is a good idea to have a new pin hole and cut the shank but you had better look at your lift gate. (We have an electrical extension cord. Escape would not make us a cord that fit and I was totally irked about that. With all of the custom items they do, that one looked easy.) On the lift gate, make sure you will still be able to open it. Also, don't know how such a change affects the rest of the WDH working together.

[ckran]

We had the same issue with our 5th Gen 4runner and 19 ft trailer, I went around a corner and lost connectivity!! We had ETI replace the original cord for us (I think they extended it about a foot). Seems to work fine now, and I don't recall that it was very expensive to get this done.