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Old 05-23-2019, 12:50 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by jnfrombigt View Post
Boy, I appreciate that info! It cost me a bunch to get the oil changed. I'm gonna have to do some research on "oil suckers". The thing might pay for itself. I think I'm up to 30,000 miles on mine. It's seven years old and long past warranty. My plan is that it will be part of my estate. I just hope I can keep it looking as good as you've kept yours
hah, mine has about 270000 on it. I change the oil every 5000-6000 miles or twice a year, whichever comes first

I've had two oil suckers. by far the nicer one is the MityVac,
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-.../dp/B0002SR7TC

this easily holds the ~ 7 quarts my 3.2L m104 engine takes. and you can reverse it to pump the dirty oil into transport containers for recycling, so its totally no mess no fuss.
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Old 05-23-2019, 12:59 PM   #182
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
hah, mine has about 270000 on it. I change the oil every 5000-6000 miles or twice a year, whichever comes first

I've had two oil suckers. by far the nicer one is the MityVac,
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-.../dp/B0002SR7TC

this easily holds the ~ 7 quarts my 3.2L m104 engine takes. and you can reverse it to pump the dirty oil into transport containers for recycling, so its totally no mess no fuss.
That thing would pay for itself with one oil change. Another thing I could use it on the Ram transmission. Ram says to change transmission oil on the Zuffenhausen about 90,000-100,000miles but the Zuffenhausen folks recommend 60,000km. I think I'll trust the folks that designed the transmission.
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Old 05-23-2019, 01:47 PM   #183
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When we bought our new Subaru it came with free oil changes . I would mark the filter , it is on top in engine compartment . But I couldn't understand why the oil looked dirty . So I decided enough bought my oil at dealer and started changing my own . Decovered they also didn't change the crush ring on the bolt either . I used different dealers too . Interesting when I changed the oil it was lighter . What free oil changes ? Pat

Very interesting, Pat. When we bought a new Toyota, there was free service for the 1st 24k miles. I started looking at what was done at those 'services': similar results as your experience: oil changes < half the time; little or nothing else. So we started using a reliable independent shop in town.
I wonder if your dealer is owned by the same company as Toyota of Oxnard. I know that, in Ventura County, a lot of dealerships are owned by a very small group of companies.
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:46 PM   #184
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Most of those quick lube places use oil suckers in the dipstick and don't even pull the plug
All of the lube shops that I've seen here have a traditional drive-over pit, so oil is drained to below. I have heard of the suction systems... just not seen one used.

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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
I have a couple early 1990s Mercedes, they are designed to use a topside oil sucker to fully evacuate the used oil.
If it's designed for it, great, but I don't think it's safe to assume that sucking from the location of the bottom of the dipstick will effectively remove the dirtiest oil in the sump.

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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
... my truck requires a proper oil dump from the drain plug so I installed a Fujama oil drain valve. 14 quarts later the truck's happy
I have been planning to put a Fumoto drain valve in our motorhome, because some idiot placed the engine sump drain directly over the front axle... but lacking a local supplier or a clear indication of the ideal version for this engine, I haven't gotten around to it. It's not as bad as John's truck, because the 6.8L V10 uses less than half as much oil.


Note: The access issue with the new Ranger appears to be for the filter, not draining the oil.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:43 PM   #185
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Brian said:

"I have been planning to put a Fumoto drain valve in our motorhome, because some idiot placed the engine sump drain directly over the front axle."

This one worked just fine on our Lazy Daze Class C with the E-450 chassis and the Ford V-10.

It's the smallest size they make so it works well in tight spaces. You need the hose kit to avoid spills. If in doubt, give them a call.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106s.html

However, the drain line is 3/8" ID. It takes forever to drain the oil. Start the job, go someplace for a nice breakfast and when you get home the oil should be drained.

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Old 05-23-2019, 09:46 PM   #186
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This one worked just fine on our Lazy Daze Class C with the E-450 chassis and the Ford V-10.

It's the smallest size they make so it works well in tight spaces. You need the hose kit to avoid spills. If in doubt, give them a call.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106s.html

However, the drain line is 3/8" ID. It takes forever to drain the oil. Start the job, go someplace for a nice breakfast and when you get home the oil should be drained.
Thanks
There's lots space for the valve in the F53 (it's inconveniently above the axle, but way above the axle), and I was thinking of one of the angled style to point the hose to one side. I don't remember looking into the hose size... larger would certainly be better, but I suppose I'll get some useful siphon effect with the drop from the drain plug to the catch container. At least now I know which thread is right.
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Old 10-05-2020, 08:25 AM   #187
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I've heard of this issue, but it wouldn't bother me. It would probably be easier to jack up one corner to pull the wheel than to lift the whole front end enough to get underneath, and oil filters typically require removing an access panel now, due to the extensive aerodynamic undertrays used on modern vehicles.

I doubt that there is a Ford-specific screw head in existence, but servicing a vehicle does often require a good selection of tools, including (for instance) Torx drivers.
Finally got to do the first oil change on our Ranger.
The stories about having to remove the front tire are all wrong.

I always drive our vehicles front wheels up on ramps to change the oil and did the same with the Ranger.
I don't have 4WD skid plates, so the oil drain bolt was right there in front of me. That part was easy, and will be even easier in the future since I added a ValvoMax to replace the drain bolt so I can drain oil directly into used oil containers.
Now for the filter. I heard all the horror stories, looked at the rubber fender flap that the filter was hiding behind, and realized it was held by plastic bits with a Phillips head at the end. Using light pressure, I turned 4 of those fine threaded bits to loosen them and pull them out, folded the rubber fender liner back, and the filter was right there! Used a filter tool with a 3/8 extension to remove the filter, and they even designed a trough to catch any oil and keep it away from the engine and direct it to your oil catch pan. No mess!
Wiped the trough, replaced the filter, pushed the plastic retainers back into the fender flap, and that was it!
Much easier than I anticipated. Never had to remove the tire, or even turn it hard right like some have mentioned.

I also like pulling our 3,000 lb Scamp 16 with the Ranger, and will be using the Ranger when we get our 19' Escape this month.
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Old 10-05-2020, 02:18 PM   #188
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yeah, I put a Fumoto drain valve on my F250 diesel, which takes like 14 quarts of oil. makes the job way easier. on that massive truck, the oil filter is huge, and is easily accessed under/next to the motor without removing anything. What I found works best is to first loosen the filter a 1/4 turn or so with the huge filter strap-wrench that fits it, then punch a hole in it to drain out the oil in the filter, THEN remove it, otherwise its so heavy when it comes unthreaded that I end up dropping it and getting blackened oil all over myself.
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Old 10-07-2020, 10:34 AM   #189
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Is anyone using a Tacoma TRD 4.0 as TV for a 19 or 21? Please give me your feed back.
Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2020, 01:08 PM   #190
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Is anyone using a Tacoma TRD 4.0 as TV for a 19 or 21? Please give me your feed back.
Thanks!
I pulled our E21 from texas to california by way of reno with a Tacoma 4x4 TRD Off Road 4.0L 6-speed stick.

the truck handled it nicely. the fuel consumption was *AWFUL*, and so was the payload of the truck. Mid winter, westbound on I20 out of the Dallas Ft Worth area, we were clocking 9.6 MPG, on an 18 gallon tank, that meant 150 miles between fillups. farther west, slowing down to 60-ish, we maybe got 11 MPG at best. 1200 lbs total payload for our Access Cab model, -500 lbs for tongue weight, -100 lbs for the fiberglass camper shell on the truck, leaves 600 lbs total left over for driver and passenger and luggage.. driver weighed 225 lbs, so thats 375 lbs left over for passenger plus all luggage.

we bought a bigger truck and sold the Tacoma.
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Old 10-07-2020, 07:38 PM   #191
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Thats what I was afraid of. 5500 GWVR just isn’t going to cut it.
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