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Old 07-02-2013, 07:25 PM   #1
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A wee inkling of an idea

Next time I hook up, I'm going to connect the wiring harness to the tow and test the lights, before I attach the safety chains, the break away cable and the WDHitch bars, so I don't have to unhitch it all to drive to the store to buy a turn-signal bulb.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:31 PM   #2
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:54 PM   #3
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It seems so obvious in hindsight but then I've never had to drive to the store to get a bulb. Thanks for the inkling...will try to remember.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:12 PM   #4
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Whenever I need to replace a bulb, I always replace two. The one that is burned out plus the one on the opposite side. If one is out, the other one is probably also due and the time to change the second goes really quickly.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:28 PM   #5
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you can take a piece of 14/2 electrical wire, single strand, bend into a "U" shaped and connect the top 2 connectors on your trailer plug on your trailer, NOT YOUR TOW VEHICLE, when I say top. the top part that fits into your tow vehicle and has the little bump that holds it in place, this will turn your lights on the trailer and this is how people leave their unit all lit up.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:07 PM   #6
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We thought we needed bulbs in our left turn signal when it did not work. Problem was, there is silicone holding the plastic light cover in place. My husband did not want to remove it when we were out in the middle of nowhere, so we started to go on.

Then it dawned on me that the last time it happened, we suspected the brake controller. The controller company told us to move the left signal pin in the connection for the lights that goes back to the Escape. We did and that fixed it. Of course, couldn't find the diagram as to which was for the left recently so moved all of the pins outward. This has happened several times now and that is how we always fix it. Good thing we didn't remove that silicone for nothing and have exposed lights --- and they still would not have worked after replacing bulbs if we had gone out of our way for that. Some others may have this problem instead of bad bulbs. Easy fix. I wonder if others have the silicone holding the plastic cover.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:26 PM   #7
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Silicone sounds weird to me. There are two tabs, one on each side of the lens on mine. Press one in and pull the lens.
I replaced the bulb, didn't work. I cleaned the contacts, didn't work. I messed with the connection at the tow, didn't work. I messed with the connection again, and now it works. I think I need to clean the contacts, male and female at the tow. And I will. I promise.
Meantime, I now have spare bulbs.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:16 PM   #8
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And lube them with dielectric grease.

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Old 07-02-2013, 11:28 PM   #9
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I looked it up earlier:

The key sentence is:
It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low.

The rest of the paragraph follows.

Dielectric grease

Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces has the advantage of sealing the contact area against corrosion.
Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:51 AM   #10
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Die-electric

I would agree with you Glen, my experience using die-electric grease on contacts caused them to stop working. I needed to remove the grease before I could get the proper connection.

Die-electric grease does not seem to have a purpose around our trailers. I would be curious as to brand names of the "electronic connector lubricants"?
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