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Old 06-09-2017, 03:26 AM   #1
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Andersen ultimate for 5.0 ?

I will soon be installing 5th wheel hitch in my 2015 f150 ecobeast with the 5.5ft bed. I really want the Andersen ultimate either rail mount or gooseneck mount due to the lighter weight and quiet ride versus a slider. If I must have a slider then I will, but really prefer to have the Andersen if possible. Reace told me that it would work but the aluminum pin adapter has to be turned rearward to avoid hitting bed rails when turning but then I would lose the few inches of offset the Andersen gives putting the trailer more forward. I don't like that idea unless it still gives plenty of space between cab for turning? Could I go with gooseneck turnover ball and use a 4" offset extension ball in the turnover hitch and mount the Andersen to that to give back the inches lost from mounting pin adapter rearward or will that put me too close to the tailgate with pin box? Can anyone with the 5.5ft bed and a 5.0 trailer give me advice on what to do and not do. If you're using the Andersen hitch how is it working and how to make it work? I would really like to avoid smashing the window out of my truck as the missus will never let me live it down
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:54 AM   #2
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I am interested in this too
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:59 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Kevin R View Post
I will soon be installing 5th wheel hitch in my 2015 f150 ecobeast with the 5.5ft bed. I really want the Andersen ultimate either rail mount or gooseneck mount due to the lighter weight and quiet ride versus a slider. If I must have a slider then I will, but really prefer to have the Andersen if possible. Reace told me that it would work but the aluminum pin adapter has to be turned rearward to avoid hitting bed rails when turning but then I would lose the few inches of offset the Andersen gives putting the trailer more forward. I don't like that idea unless it still gives plenty of space between cab for turning? Could I go with gooseneck turnover ball and use a 4" offset extension ball in the turnover hitch and mount the Andersen to that to give back the inches lost from mounting pin adapter rearward or will that put me too close to the tailgate with pin box? Can anyone with the 5.5ft bed and a 5.0 trailer give me advice on what to do and not do. If you're using the Andersen hitch how is it working and how to make it work? I would really like to avoid smashing the window out of my truck as the missus will never let me live it down
ii

No expert on the subject as I have only towed my 5.0 about 600 miles so far and only parked it 5 times. That being said I think this hitch is great. I'm using rail mount version steel upper that I installed on my 6.5 bed. The ball is mounted offset forward, pin adapter facing front. This puts trailer pin on axle center line. If you reversed the adapter it would put the trailer closer to the cab of your truck, don't think anyone would suggest that. Now if you where to put the hitch in with offset to the back it would put your trailer further from cab. I'm pretty sure some on the forum have done that. The distance from the axle to the tailgate is the same on the 5.5,6.5 or 8 foot beds. The extra length is added between axle and cab. Search for Andersen on this forum you'll find lots of stuff from more knowledgeable people than I.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:08 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Kevin R View Post
I will soon be installing 5th wheel hitch in my 2015 f150 ecobeast with the 5.5ft bed. I really want the Andersen ultimate either rail mount or gooseneck mount due to the lighter weight and quiet ride versus a slider. If I must have a slider then I will, but really prefer to have the Andersen if possible. Reace told me that it would work but the aluminum pin adapter has to be turned rearward to avoid hitting bed rails when turning but then I would lose the few inches of offset the Andersen gives putting the trailer more forward. I don't like that idea unless it still gives plenty of space between cab for turning? Could I go with gooseneck turnover ball and use a 4" offset extension ball in the turnover hitch and mount the Andersen to that to give back the inches lost from mounting pin adapter rearward or will that put me too close to the tailgate with pin box? Can anyone with the 5.5ft bed and a 5.0 trailer give me advice on what to do and not do. If you're using the Andersen hitch how is it working and how to make it work? I would really like to avoid smashing the window out of my truck as the missus will never let me live it down
I have the B&W gooseneck with the Anderson hitch. I do have the 6.5' box, but the only difference it makes is clearance to the cab, as the gooseneck mounts the same distance from the rear as the 5.5' box.

Last year I used a temporary stick built trailer while I waited for the 2017 5.0TA moulds to be completed. I set it up with the adaptor turned with the pin to the rear. With the pin box this trailer had I had plenty of clearance on the bed rails, and when hitched I had lots of room behind the tailgate with tailgate down.

I planned the same setup for my 5.0TA, but when I went to pick it up, Dennis installed it while I was doing our orientation. He installed the adaptor with the pin forward. When hitched, this left about 1" of clearance from the frame with the tailgate opened, and this is with the truck straight on to the trailer. You could do a bit of an angle, but not a lot. I left it like this for the tow back. I was used to opening the tailgate to attach the chains and put stuff in the back of the box, but this was near impossible hooked this way.

The gooseneck ball is about 1" forward of the axle, the Anderson hitch offsets the gooseneck ball about 5", and the adaptor is another 4" offset. This amounted to about a 8" rearward offset with my temp trailer which was a bit heavier than my Escape, but I found it towed wonderfully, not really noticing this offset at all. With the adaptor turned forward as it was set by Escape, the pin is centered right over the axle. So, either setup works just fine with the pin weights we are dealing with.

While out on the first excursion with the trailer I decided to turn the adaptor around. This is when I found that the back of the pin box was dangerously close to the bed rails. With my truck/trailer combo the ball on the gooseneck is mounted as low as possible, giving me about 1/2" rise in the front, pretty close to level. I do not have raised axles, having them on a previous trailer and feeling they just we not needed. I tried raising the gooseneck ball to the top, which gave a decent amount of clearance from the bed rails, and drove the hour home that way. This setup gave me near two inches rise from the front of the lower frame to the center of the axles, way too much for tandem torsion axles. I thought of raising the axles to allow this setup to work, though the back of the pin box was still a bit too close to the bed rails for my liking, and in the right (wrong) situation it would not be too much of a push to have a problem with them hitting.

I moved the adaptor back to where Escape had set it up, and what I now do as a decent compromise, is to back up the truck to within about a foot of being connected, and from over the sides connect the chains, then arrange stuff in the rear of the box and close the tailgate. I then reverse the last bit and connect. I had to do this a few times on the last trip, and it is a compromise this works fine. It really only makes a difference of a half minute hitching and unhitching. Plus this way I am about 8" shorter hitched, which can make a difference in a few situations.
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Old 06-09-2017, 12:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Kevin R View Post
I will soon be installing 5th wheel hitch in my 2015 f150 ecobeast with the 5.5ft bed. I really want the Andersen ultimate either rail mount or gooseneck mount due to the lighter weight and quiet ride versus a slider. If I must have a slider then I will, but really prefer to have the Andersen if possible. Reace told me that it would work but the aluminum pin adapter has to be turned rearward to avoid hitting bed rails when turning but then I would lose the few inches of offset the Andersen gives putting the trailer more forward. I don't like that idea unless it still gives plenty of space between cab for turning? Could I go with gooseneck turnover ball and use a 4" offset extension ball in the turnover hitch and mount the Andersen to that to give back the inches lost from mounting pin adapter rearward or will that put me too close to the tailgate with pin box? Can anyone with the 5.5ft bed and a 5.0 trailer give me advice on what to do and not do. If you're using the Andersen hitch how is it working and how to make it work? I would really like to avoid smashing the window out of my truck as the missus will never let me live it down
Kevin, I get tour dilemma! You might be hard pressed to find someone with a 5 1/2 box and an Anderson hitch installed. That would be ideal for real world experience and knowledge. I'll tell you my experience for what it's worth! I have a Tundra 61/2 bed with a B&W gooseneck and the Andersen hitch and a new 5.0TA. Dennis set it up with the pin adapter to the rear of the trailer. And as Jim pointed out, when backing the pickup to align the ball and adapter with the tailgate down, the tailgate is less than 1 inch from the trailer frame. Therefore, you must back the pickup dead straight to the trailer. To remedy this, I turned the pin adapter to face forward! Reace is correct! That created a clearance issue with hitting the bed rails when turning. Even more so for me as I have a tonneau cover which raise the bed rail slightly higher. I had to move the adapter back to rear facing. And I hook up now as Jim described: get within a foot, close the tailgate, align and hook up. Even with the adapter facing to the rear I can not turn the pickup 90 degrees to the trailer as it will hit the bed rails. I still can turn tight enough to maneuver the trailer. Also no problem with the trailer hitting the cab...I think your thought of using the offset ball with the adapter facing to the rear will help the bed rail issue, the question remains about the trailer hitting the cab as you point out. Spokane Escape here on the forum have a new Ford 5 1/2 bed and a 5.0. They put in a slider hitch and commented to me that they were not thrilled with it. Noise issues, having to slide it etc etc.. You could contact them to get their opinion of the slide hitch. At the Escape rally, there was another new 5.0 being pulled with a new Ford 150 with an Andersen hitch but a 6 1/2 box. That extra foot of the bed eliminates the clearance issues. Hopefully someone with a 5 1/2' can chime in...
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Old 06-09-2017, 01:05 PM   #6
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Well I'll chime in! We are quite happy with the slider hitch because we are able to leave it in the rear maneuvering position all the time - but if we had to mess around with sliding it before backing in to a site it would be a pain in the rear - pun intended. It's worth it to us to have the 5.5 foot bed for city driving/maneuverability and the crew cab gives us plenty of room for the grandkids.
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:00 PM   #7
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https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe...rail+mount+kit

I just installed the side plates on my 2010 F 150 Super Crew with the 5.5' Bed (2 wheel drive) I am also ordering an Anderson Ultimate Rail Mounted Hitch so I can't install the rails in the bed of the truck until I receive the hitch.
The side plates bolted on easily as the kit provides fish wires to help get the bolts into the frame and pull out the correct holes. I bought this kit because the holes are aligned and there is no drilling. The 5" offset built into the Anderson hitch plus the 4" forward onset of the Anderson adaptor should leave enough clearance for the 5.0TA to fit behind the 5.5' bed. I am measuring as I go.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also installed the Sumo Springs.
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:07 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Chotch View Post
ii

No expert on the subject as I have only towed my 5.0 about 600 miles so far and only parked it 5 times. That being said I think this hitch is great. I'm using rail mount version steel upper that I installed on my 6.5 bed. The ball is mounted offset forward, pin adapter facing front. This puts trailer pin on axle center line. If you reversed the adapter it would put the trailer closer to the cab of your truck, don't think anyone would suggest that. Now if you where to put the hitch in with offset to the back it would put your trailer further from cab. I'm pretty sure some on the forum have done that. The distance from the axle to the tailgate is the same on the 5.5,6.5 or 8 foot beds. The extra length is added between axle and cab. Search for Andersen on this forum you'll find lots of stuff from more knowledgeable people than I.
Sorry, my 2 cents not even worth that.
I should read more and write less. After reading Jim Bennet's post I totally get why you would mount pin adapter facing rear. Ran out and did the set up he is using. Now trailer should tow level with no chance of hitting the rails.Can't wait to try it out.
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Kevin R View Post
Reace told me that it would work but the aluminum pin adapter has to be turned rearward to avoid hitting bed rails when turning but then I would lose the few inches of offset the Andersen gives putting the trailer more forward. I don't like that idea unless it still gives plenty of space between cab for turning?
Can anyone with the 5.5ft bed and a 5.0 trailer give me advice on what to do and not do. If you're using the Andersen hitch how is it working and how to make it work? I would really like to avoid smashing the window out of my truck as the missus will never let me live it down
OK, I'm just beginning to understand. I am planning to use the 5 inch rearward offset plus the 4 inch forward offset of the Kingpin Coupler Block with my Ford 5.5" bed but the Coupler Block in the forward position may hit the side rails while turning? I hadn't thought about this but I am also getting the high lift option so am wondering if the ball height of the hitch will keep the kingpin coupler block above the rails so they won't touch.

https://andersenhitches.com/uploads/...Aug%202015.pdf
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Old 06-09-2017, 11:29 PM   #10
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Hi Kevin
I am using the Andersen Ultimate in a 2017 F-150 and 5'7" box with a 5.0TA we picked up three weeks ago. We are taking a long trip back to Illinois, so far going over 2000 miles and the hitch setup is working great. I was in disbelief during orientation when I saw they had mounted the adapter rearward, fearing the same things you mentioned. Dennis got Reace to come out and try to convince me but I still had them try turn it around to prove it to me. They were right and changed it back to rearward. I can go forward turning all the way to the side with good clearance and have been able to back the trailer up at as sharp an angle as I would want to go regardless of the clearance. So I don't see a need for an offset gooseneck adapter I've seen available from Andersen. I installed a Drawtite hide-a-goose which is about 1.5" in front of the axle. So it ends up being similar to Jim's setup with the kingpin right over the axle. I just have to solve the trailer riding a couple inches high in the front. Dennis at ETI suggested I give the new springs time to settle a little on the trip home before changing anything on the trailer. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Old 06-09-2017, 11:41 PM   #11
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Hi Kevin
I am using the Andersen Ultimate in a 2017 F-150 and 5'7" box with a 5.0TA we picked up three weeks ago. We are taking a long trip back to Illinois, so far going over 2000 miles and the hitch setup is working great. I was in disbelief during orientation when I saw they had mounted the adapter rearward, fearing the same things you mentioned. Dennis got Reace to come out and try to convince me but I still had them try turn it around to prove it to me. They were right and changed it back to rearward. I can go forward turning all the way to the side with good clearance and have been able to back the trailer up at as sharp an angle as I would want to go regardless of the clearance. So I don't see a need for an offset gooseneck adapter I've seen available from Andersen. I installed a Drawtite hide-a-goose which is about 1.5" in front of the axle. So it ends up being similar to Jim's setup with the kingpin right over the axle. I just have to solve the trailer riding a couple inches high in the front. Dennis at ETI suggested I give the new springs time to settle a little on the trip home before changing anything on the trailer. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for your reply! It did help answer my questions I do have one more question: if you were to do it all over again, would you think about getting the high lift on the trailer? I really don't want my trailer to ride higher in the front
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Old 06-09-2017, 11:51 PM   #12
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Thanks for your reply! It did help answer my questions I do have one more question: if you were to do it all over again, would you think about getting the high lift on the trailer? I really don't want my trailer to ride higher in the front
I really pondered this and went ahead and ordered my 5.0 TA with the high lift option. To me the disadvantages are less gas mileage due to it sitting higher and the step is higher from the ground so possibly more awkward to get in and out. The advantages seem to be slightly less bending to dump the tanks, slightly easier to crawl under the trailer, less interference with the truck side rails, less worry while driving over badly rutted roads or steep banks.
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Old 06-10-2017, 12:01 AM   #13
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Well I'll chime in! We are quite happy with the slider hitch because we are able to leave it in the rear maneuvering position all the time - but if we had to mess around with sliding it before backing in to a site it would be a pain in the rear - pun intended. It's worth it to us to have the 5.5 foot bed for city driving/maneuverability and the crew cab gives us plenty of room for the grandkids.
Thanks for your reply! I was under the impression that all slider hitches have to be in the forward towing position for highway towing. What brand hitch do you have and is it stated by the manufacturer that it can be used to tow in rear position? If so, that would be another option for me to consider would you go with this slider again versus the Andersen?
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Old 06-10-2017, 12:11 AM   #14
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I really pondered this and went ahead and ordered my 5.0 TA with the high lift option. To me the disadvantages are less gas mileage due to it sitting higher and the step is higher from the ground so possibly more awkward to get in and out. The advantages seem to be slightly less bending to dump the tanks, slightly easier to crawl under the trailer, less interference with the truck side rails, less worry while driving over badly rutted roads or steep banks.
I would imagine that gas mileage would be a little less but maybe not dramatically. To me, a little more gas is way cheaper than new bed rails. Maybe it is possible to replace the step on trailer to a 2 or 3 step instead of the one step to make it easier to get in and out of trailer?
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Old 06-10-2017, 12:48 AM   #15
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Thanks for your reply! It did help answer my questions I do have one more question: if you were to do it all over again, would you think about getting the high lift on the trailer? I really don't want my trailer to ride higher in the front
I really did not want the high-lift option and would rather solve the high front end another way if I have to. I talked to ETI about changing the hitchbox in the front (3 inches) and then I could raise the Andersen ball to net about 1.5" lower. They warned me to watch out for clearance for the truck bed. The top of my truck box measured 55.5" from the ground brand new and today I measured 55". I will get more precise on the off-level of the trailer when I get home and then decide if any changes are needed.
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Old 06-10-2017, 03:17 AM   #16
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I would imagine that gas mileage would be a little less but maybe not dramatically. To me, a little more gas is way cheaper than new bed rails. Maybe it is possible to replace the step on trailer to a 2 or 3 step instead of the one step to make it easier to get in and out of trailer?
Bear Steps

This looks like a good modification. Not sure I fully understand how but I need to see the step and play with it and will probably "get it."
I also believe the mileage penalty would be worse on a bumper pull than the 5.0TA. It has the slanted roof and less frontal area to block the wind.
More travel on the power jacks although I am getting the Anderson Jack Blocks to use under them. They are 8" high.
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Old 06-10-2017, 03:32 AM   #17
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I'm still trying to decide if I should get the high lift option I'm looking at matching a 2017 5.5 bed Ford 150 with the Anderson hitch and the 5.0 TA too but I'm having difficulty picturing it all I think I will go up to Escape and their local hitch place to work out the details this summer before my order sheet is due.
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Old 06-10-2017, 01:06 PM   #18
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High Lift retrofit?

My Tundra in the current configutation (Andersen pin adapter towards trailer) could probably benefit from the high lift configuration because my bed cover rails will contact on a tight turn now. I'm thinking I could raise the ball and buy some clearance. Reace did caution that if the trailer was articulated, that would negate the benefits of the raised ball.
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:56 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Mark&Elaine View Post
Kevin, I get tour dilemma! You might be hard pressed to find someone with a 5 1/2 box and an Anderson hitch installed. That would be ideal for real world experience and knowledge. I'll tell you my experience for what it's worth! I have a Tundra 61/2 bed with a B&W gooseneck and the Andersen hitch and a new 5.0TA. Dennis set it up with the pin adapter to the rear of the trailer. And as Jim pointed out, when backing the pickup to align the ball and adapter with the tailgate down, the tailgate is less than 1 inch from the trailer frame. Therefore, you must back the pickup dead straight to the trailer. To remedy this, I turned the pin adapter to face forward! Reace is correct! That created a clearance issue with hitting the bed rails when turning. Even more so for me as I have a tonneau cover which raise the bed rail slightly higher. I had to move the adapter back to rear facing. And I hook up now as Jim described: get within a foot, close the tailgate, align and hook up. Even with the adapter facing to the rear I can not turn the pickup 90 degrees to the trailer as it will hit the bed rails. I still can turn tight enough to maneuver the trailer. Also no problem with the trailer hitting the cab...I think your thought of using the offset ball with the adapter facing to the rear will help the bed rail issue, the question remains about the trailer hitting the cab as you point out. Spokane Escape here on the forum have a new Ford 5 1/2 bed and a 5.0. They put in a slider hitch and commented to me that they were not thrilled with it. Noise issues, having to slide it etc etc.. You could contact them to get their opinion of the slide hitch. At the Escape rally, there was another new 5.0 being pulled with a new Ford 150 with an Andersen hitch but a 6 1/2 box. That extra foot of the bed eliminates the clearance issues. Hopefully someone with a 5 1/2' can chime in...
Hi Mark - Our 5.0 goes into production next week and I was all set to take the Tundra Double Cab (6.5' bed) to have a gooseneck hitch installed and order an Anderson Ultimate hitch. Now this thread has me a bit worried as to what to do. Do you think it would be better to use a conventional 5th wheel hitch with the Tundra? I'm thinking of talking to Reace now before I do anything . Thanks for any advise or direction.
John
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