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Old 08-23-2019, 03:28 AM   #1
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Anderson Hitch adapter question

While I still have not got the why solidly in my mind, the Anderson adapter can be mounted either "forward" or "backward" on the kingpin depending on a couple measurements.

I installed the Anderson hitch in my truck Thursday while ETI will be installing the adapter on my 5.0 on Monday. I now have the first measurement needed for determining the adapter orientation (bed rail to ball center) and, just so I know what to expect, can someone provide me the second measurement for the kingpin rear to adapter cone (when mounted forward) - as depicted in the attached pic captured from the install video). Just the measurement, I can add the 4".
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:08 AM   #2
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If you mount it facing forward you reduce the clearance with the bed side walls. Sorry, I don't have the measurements. I have the short 57" bed and with it mounted rearward I had no clearance problems. I added a 4" offset ball which I already had to give additional cab clearance without reducing side wall clearance. I'll try to hunt up some pictures that might help answer your question.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:33 AM   #3
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This photo is with the 4" offset ball in place so the pivot point is 4" more to the rear than without the offset ball. Doing this does not affect side wall clearance. You can visualize from the photo how facing the adapter forward would reduce the bed side wall pin box clearance. The tailgate is not an issue. The bed sidewalls are the clearance problem no matter what size bed you have if you face the adapter forward.
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:56 AM   #4
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So, if I'm understanding correctly, having the adapter to the rear effectively puts the angle of the king pin forward, thus increasing rail clearance relating to the kingpin BUT also bring the trailer forward. That move not only brings the nose closer to the cab (not likely a problem with my 8' bed) AND it may bring it close enough that I won't be able to have the tailgate down during the whole hookup process.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:44 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by StillCampin View Post
So, if I'm understanding correctly, having the adapter to the rear effectively puts the angle of the king pin forward, thus increasing rail clearance relating to the kingpin BUT also bring the trailer forward. That move not only brings the nose closer to the cab (not likely a problem with my 8' bed) AND it may bring it close enough that I won't be able to have the tailgate down during the whole hookup process.
I just went out and connected the trailer and this is what I found: With the four inch offset I have 31" center ball to tailgate front. So normally without the offset 35". I lowered the tailgate and I have more than 4" of clearance with the trailer. Sorry did not measure. I can see without the offset it would probably be about 4" clearance tailgate to trailer. Even with the offset while attaching the trailer once I have clearance to close the tailgate I close it just to be sure. I took a photo but it has to download to icloud before I can access it. Soon as I can I'll post the photo.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by StillCampin View Post
So, if I'm understanding correctly, having the adapter to the rear effectively puts the angle of the king pin forward, thus increasing rail clearance relating to the kingpin BUT also bring the trailer forward. That move not only brings the nose closer to the cab (not likely a problem with my 8' bed) AND it may bring it close enough that I won't be able to have the tailgate down during the whole hookup process.
I've found it safer to plan on starting the connection process with the tailgate down (f-150) and after the pin is safely in the truck bed I will close the tailgate (and take a look at alignment) and finish the connection. Our tailgate can drop fully between the truck and trailer if the alignment is straight, if much angle is involved it wont drop fully without either scraping the trailer or getting hung up.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:53 AM   #7
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I don't know how much clearance we had on our old trailer between the tailgate and trailer with the tailgate down, but it was quite a bit. I can open the tailgate on our new truck with the 5.0TA hitched, but just barely. At times I wish I had gone for a gooseneck ball rather than rail mount hitch to be able to get those extra few inches of offset and greater tailgate clearance when opened. Partly I think it's the geometry of the 5.0TA, and also as bed rail heights have grown in recent years tailgates have become taller.

Unhitching isn't a problem - if I'm not quite square to the trailer, when I open the tailgate the plastic edge on the top rests against the vertical trailer frame member until I pull away. In hitching up, I've found that it's really hard to back up perfectly parallel to the trailer, and if I'm off just a little bit and go to back all the way into the hitch I could hit the tailgate on one side and dent it. So when I'm hitching up I just back up until the kingpin is almost at the hitch, then raise the tailgate before going any further - works just fine.

Hard to complain about this since one of the things we like about the 5.0TA is that its short length makes it possible to fit more easily into smaller campsites.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:53 AM   #8
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This might help
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File Type: jpg Trailer clearance.jpg (249.6 KB, 31 views)
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Old 08-23-2019, 11:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnfrombigt View Post
This photo is with the 4" offset ball in place so the pivot point is 4" more to the rear than without the offset ball. Doing this does not affect side wall clearance. You can visualize from the photo how facing the adapter forward would reduce the bed side wall pin box clearance. The tailgate is not an issue. The bed sidewalls are the clearance problem no matter what size bed you have if you face the adapter forward.
That photo explains what the two positions are for, very clearly to me. I was originally imagining turn clearance related to the 5.0 itself or even something related to changing the fulcrum point for the frame. Neither really made much sense to me. I now see that it is for turn clearance inside the bed from the pin box itself.

Hopefully the bit of lift installed on mine will help somewhat with both box rail clearance and pin box clearance.

I have my side-rail to ball center measurement and I imagine that ETI knows what measurement range that falls within for how the receiver cup needs to be positioned. Without knowing the specific king pin measurement myself, Iíll expect it to be to the rear and also expect Iíll wish for an auto closing tailgate.

(I would have replied earlier but the 3.5 hours it took to get to where I stored my custom rims&tires turned into a 5 hour return trip due to traffic from south of Seattle to Marysville.)
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:43 AM   #10
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On our F150 I could not open our tailgate if the receiver was moved 4" closer to the cab. I also question how many here have hit their pickup sides, and if so, how bad the turn dip/crest had to be to hit your sides.

We did buy the high lift package though, and that certainly helps. jnfrombigt, do you have the high lift package?

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnfrombigt View Post
This photo is with the 4" offset ball in place so the pivot point is 4" more to the rear than without the offset ball. Doing this does not affect side wall clearance. You can visualize from the photo how facing the adapter forward would reduce the bed side wall pin box clearance. The tailgate is not an issue. The bed sidewalls are the clearance problem no matter what size bed you have if you face the adapter forward.

Jim, in a different thread you mentioned you have a Curt offset ball. Did you modify the Andersen? I have the Curt double lock offset ball. It "tops out" before the pin seats with the offset ball because the ball sits about an inch higher than the bed ball.


I think I need a second, higher hole for the ball pin to make it work. Just wondering if you needed to do that.
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:15 AM   #12
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Dennis mounted my adapter when we went to the factory and was at first surprised he had the ball mount to the rear, but he explained that the tailgate clearance to the pin box would be real close.

I did give turning it a try when I got home and while the pin box was a fair distance from the tailgate, it was now over it, and if I was to go over a big hump they would hit. I turned it back.
With the truck and trailer on level ground and aligned there is about 1" clearance from an open tailgate to the trailer frame. At first I kinda balked at this, but it turns out to be no problem. When backing up to connect I just close the tailgate before I do the last 12" of reversing, and when unhooking if I am not straight, I just pull forward a bit before dropping the tailgate. This few seconds of time is preferred to adding length to the combo unit.

There is still enough space to fit my size between the truck and trailer connected, and I can do a full 90į turn too. I do have the 6.5' box.

Here is a side shot on the day we picked it up.

Rogers Pqss Info Center.jpg
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
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With the truck and trailer on level ground and aligned there is about 1" clearance from an open tailgate to the trailer frame. At first I kinda balked at this, but it turns out to be no problem. When backing up to connect I just close the tailgate before I do the last 12" of reversing, and when unhooking if I am not straight, I just pull forward a bit before dropping the tailgate. This few seconds of time is preferred to adding length to the combo unit.
And then one day we forget!

It's not "If" but "When." I keep thinking about buying a tailgate with the cutout in back, but will probably wait for the "When."

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:38 AM   #14
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Perry I do not have the high lift package. Also, the 4" offset moves the hitch to the rear of the trailer giving me additional cab clearance but I had not experience clearance problems without the offset. I already had the offset so why not. I'm not advocating people go out and buy one. "Merlin" I have the double pin Curt. No problems pin seating. I did all installations myself. The gooseneck hitch on the truck and all Andersen components trailer and truck. The delivery driver "Joe" mentioned to my friend who met us at Bob's that mine was the first Andersen that he had delivered that the owner had done the receiver/coupler install. That surprised me because it is not difficult at all. Took less than five minutes in Bob's parking lot and saved me $50 CD.
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:59 AM   #15
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Jim, in a different thread you mentioned you have a Curt offset ball. Did you modify the Andersen? I have the Curt double lock offset ball. It "tops out" before the pin seats with the offset ball because the ball sits about an inch higher than the bed ball.


I think I need a second, higher hole for the ball pin to make it work. Just wondering if you needed to do that.
Did you first try moving the coupler tube upwards by adjusting the top bolt? I ran into the same problem as you after installing the offset ball then I tried moving the tube upwards with the coupler tube adjustment bolt before trying to seat. Then no problems. If that still doesn't work measure your coupler tube and order the next smaller size.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:10 AM   #16
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Perry I do not have the high lift package. Also, the 4" offset moves the hitch to the rear of the trailer giving me additional cab clearance but I had not experience clearance problems without the offset. I already had the offset so why not. I'm not advocating people go out and buy one.
Our F150 with max tow package has high sides and if, like you, didn't' get the high lift package, something else would have to be done to avoid hitting the sides. That's why I asked.

Hopefully, StillCampin got the high lift package.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:20 AM   #17
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Our F150 with max tow package has high sides and if, like you, didn't' get the high lift package, something else would have to be done to avoid hitting the sides. That's why I asked.

Hopefully, StillCampin got the high lift package.

Enjoy,

Perry
Perry if I remember correctly the measurement from ground to the top of my bed sidewall at the bed rear is 53". I installed the AirLift 1000HD bags in the springs and keep about 25 psi in the bags but I still get quite a bit of drop when I lower the trailer on the hitch. On my other trucks I did get a tailgate with the cutout to prevent gooseneck tailgate conflict.
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:03 AM   #18
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While I still have not got the why solidly in my mind, the Anderson adapter can be mounted either "forward" or "backward" on the kingpin depending on a couple measurements.

I installed the Anderson hitch in my truck Thursday while ETI will be installing the adapter on my 5.0 on Monday. I now have the first measurement needed for determining the adapter orientation (bed rail to ball center) and, just so I know what to expect, can someone provide me the second measurement for the kingpin rear to adapter cone (when mounted forward) - as depicted in the attached pic captured from the install video). Just the measurement, I can add the 4".
Set up for my 6.5í F150 is as pictured. Have had no clearance or any other towing issues.
As for actually hooking up Jim Bennett describes it perfectly and as he stated thatís also not a problem.
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File Type: jpg 2C3504B1-9F7F-4BC3-B73D-46E1566BFC69.jpg (114.6 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 8D6657EF-1CC5-4F4C-A12A-9760314CB028.jpg (216.4 KB, 11 views)
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:06 AM   #19
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This might help
🤔 whatís bolted to your tailgate?
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:36 AM   #20
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🤔 whatís bolted to your tailgate?
A ladder I got off Amazon. I think it's around $38 USD. In spite of my advancing years I have little difficulty using the tire to get into the truck bed from the side but going up from the rear is a little difficult so the ladder. Ten minute install. I read the hardware tends to rust but mine is covered by the tonneau except when I'm towing. I'd buy it again.
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