Anderson Leveling system for 21'

[TAfraser]

Center to Center on the 21 is about 30.5"
Cutting with the table saw was a little scary. The levelers were hard to keep stable because they're slippery and an odd shape. That's why I recommended using another method. In the end, mine came out fine. I've only used them in my driveway, so time will tell if they work well in the field.

[Jim Bennett]

Vicky, I agree with Russ. A sharp coarse blade, at a slower speed will chew through nicely. Sanding will smooth out the cut to help keep it clean.

[bpjod]

I used a compound mitre saw. Taped the leveller part to the chock part to make a big wedge with a flat bottom (I hope I've explained myself clearly here). This greatly helped keep it steady. I then angled the mitre saw as much as I could (about 35 deg) and cut off the tip. I then used an orbital sander to round things off. I'm quite happy with how it looks. Now I have to find out if I cut off enough -- I pick mine up Friday!

[hotfishtacos]

A bandsaw is the safe and correct tool for trimming the plastic ramp. Use a medium-coarse blade. A fine blade will get too hot. Medium speed will be fine.

Originally Posted by Vicki A.

Would there be any other way to cut these down? I sold my table saw, they just scare me to death! I have a compound miter saw and a band saw, but I would think the band saw might melt the plastic more than cut it. Any ideas?

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by bpjod

I used a compound mitre saw. Taped the leveller part to the chock part to make a big wedge with a flat bottom (I hope I've explained myself clearly here). This greatly helped keep it steady. I then angled the mitre saw as much as I could (about 35 deg) and cut off the tip. I then used an orbital sander to round things off. I'm quite happy with how it looks. Now I have to find out if I cut off enough -- I pick mine up Friday!

Bet you can't wait to see your new trailer. Hope you have a great trip out to Coquitlam and a fun holiday afterwards. Be sure to fill us in on the details.

[7th Heaven]

Vicki,

as others have already mentioned your handsaw will work perfect.

I used mine with a 1/2" blade with 10-12 teeth per inch.

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by bpjod

I used a compound mitre saw. Taped the leveller part to the chock part to make a big wedge with a flat bottom (I hope I've explained myself clearly here). This greatly helped keep it steady. I then angled the mitre saw as much as I could (about 35 deg) and cut off the tip. I then used an orbital sander to round things off. I'm quite happy with how it looks. Now I have to find out if I cut off enough -- I pick mine up Friday!

Good idea using the chock so you'd have something stable to hold against the fence of your miter saw. Did you end up cutting the top or the bottom of the rocking ramp?

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by TAfraser

Center to Center on the 21 is about 30.5"
Cutting with the table saw was a little scary. The levelers were hard to keep stable because they're slippery and an odd shape. That's why I recommended using another method. In the end, mine came out fine. I've only used them in my driveway, so time will tell if they work well in the field.

Measured the distance center-to-center between the hubs on my 19'; 30.5" - same as the 21'.

[MyronL]

We shall see how these homeboy levelers do. Glued-up 2x8's then coated with resin. Was going to cut the same profile curve as them store-boughts but then thought.... is that curve really necessary?

[cpaharley2008]

looks nice Myron….

[Jim Bennett]

Great start to those, Myron. What the curve does is to allow the weight to mostly push down, with the shim stabilizing the wheels from front to back movement.

With using just a wedge shape, the wheels will tend to want to roll downhill. If there was room to put a small wedge in the opposite direction, that would stop the rolling action. Locking the wheels with a BAL x-chock would stabilize things too.

[MyronL]

Thanks yes, I see that. A wedge in front will no doubt be necessary, though I'm figuring dropping the corner elevator stabilizers will act as the key brake.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Thanks yes, I see that. A wedge in front will no doubt be necessary, though I'm figuring dropping the corner elevator stabilizers will act as the key brake.

Hi: MyronL... Looks like you'll need a couple of "Wedgies" Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Vicki A.]

Those with the Andersen, do you also use X chocks?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Thanks yes, I see that. A wedge in front will no doubt be necessary, though I'm figuring dropping the corner elevator stabilizers will act as the key brake.

The problem with the stabilizers, is that they only provide side-to-side stability, and not front-to-back. This is why I went to the X-chocks a few years back.

[cpaharley2008]

I use the x chocks before I disconnect from the tow, they hold the unit up on the levelers.

[MyronL]

Yes, X-chocks. Is that what this is? I call 'em wheel wedges.

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, X-chocks is a name brand.

[Mike]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Okay, I understand about wanting both tires to lift at the same rate, etc. BUT what do you do when one axle is in a hole and the other axle is high? I camp in cow pastures and there's nothing flat or level about those areas.

Hi, Maybe take some 1/2 to 3/4 plywood to lay down to roll over when camping in the pasture., or a 2x4 or anything flat and sturdy

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Mike

Hi, Maybe take some 1/2 to 3/4 plywood to lay down to roll over when camping in the pasture., or a 2x4 or anything flat and sturdy

Hi: Mike... That's what the "Cow patties" are there for Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie