Anderson weight distribution hitch - Page 18 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 12-04-2013, 01:52 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
. By the way, what is your tongue weight on the 15' Escape?
I have mentioned my tongue weight in another thread realizing that I thought it was quite high for the 15, at 380, BUT we now use the fresh water tank to lighten the load on the tongue. I find that I need the fresh water tank to be 2/3 full to keep the tongue weight below 340. So… we travel with more overall weight, but keep the tongue weight down.

I suspect the front box, dual batteries, and the fact that the kitchen on the 15B is up front and the fridge is forward of the axle all have something to do with the heavy tongue weight.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:08 PM   #172
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Ice-breaker, Thank you for explaining so well the reason for bolting the clamp bracket to the frame via a whole to prevent brackets from slipping. Now I understood it better. I did not know that this was the method which Escape factory was using and offering as a required option when installing Anderson WDH.
I would like to see a picture of how the bolts through a whole fastening to the frame if anyone can share it. Thanks again.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:26 PM   #173
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cpaharley2008.,
I was planning to install the Anderson WDH as you mentioned in this quote "There are two set screws that you tighten and they dig a hole in the metal and these are supposed to keep the brackets from slipping. The tighter you make the hitch, the more pressure is exerted on the clamp". This is no longer the case. Escape factory has to do it for you in your new trailer by drilling wholes to scure the brackets to the frame with bolts. CAD$125 is the labor cost. This is FYI.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:32 PM   #174
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Yes, I know but I will be installing my own, it is already here awaiting the Escape.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by Tonny LR View Post
cpaharley2008.,
. Escape factory has to do it for you in your new trailer by drilling wholes to scure the brackets to the frame with bolts. CAD$125 is the labor cost. This is FYI.
Tonny LR
Wow, that was a fast change just since this summer. I wonder if Andersen had some issues? Does the bolt have to go all the way through the frame? I wonder if Andersen is recommending a retrofit for the rest of us?
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:54 PM   #176
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Jim,
I forgot that you are having your Escape 21trailer delivered. I am picking mine up in May even it will be ready in February.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:54 PM   #177
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You do not have to drill the hole if you self install, Escape does as a matter of choice. There has not been any change to the instructions, just the color of the brake material is now black.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:41 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post

As far as comparison, the Andersen weighs about 50% less and takes 50% less time to hitch and unhook and there are no noises involved with steel bars. The hitch is silent and stops sway. If you need a higher capacity w/d set up you may want the conventional, but with the Escape the Andersen should be adequate.
There has been a least a couple people including myself who have experienced a lot of squeaking with the Andersen hitch. I have contacted them about this and am working or will be working with them next sporing to try to isolate where this noise is coming from. Other than the noise I am happy with the hitch and ease of setup.

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Old 12-04-2013, 06:53 PM   #179
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Also, in my mind, the Andersen seems to be adding complexity to what has been a simple proven system.
I don't see the added complexity. Both conventional two-bending-bars-plus-chain and Andersen No-Sway designs have
  • a head bracket
  • a shank to support the head
  • bolts to attach the head to the shank
  • a ball in the head
  • a spring element on each side
  • a chain on each side
  • a bracket on each side of the tongue to anchor the chain, and
  • some adjustment mechanism

There are lots of detail differences resulting from the different approaches (for instance, the two-bar system has heavy spring bars and reasonably light chains; the Anderson has very light springs and heavy chains), and I'm not suggesting that the Andersen is superior, but fundamentally I don't see extra complication in the Andersen design. Certainly, compared to designs with add-ons such as a Reese Strait-Line, the Andersen less complicated.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:57 PM   #180
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In case anyone interested has not seen it, I am attaching the installation manual. Andersen does not offer it from their website, but freely provided it when I asked.

Update: sorry, that failed - the file is about 2 MB and the PDF file upload limit in the forum is 400 KB. I'll see if I can find a way around that...
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