Anderson weight distribution hitch

[cpaharley2008]

I'm finding another benefit of the Andersen Hitch is the reduction of road bounce transmitted to the trailer. without use of the hitch there is more trailer movement due to road irregularities. With the hitch the trailer does not seem to move up and down as much and items inside are not disturbed as much.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I'm finding another benefit of the Andersen Hitch is the reduction of road bounce transmitted to the trailer.

Which is my experience with the $350 weight distribution hitch. I've yet to have anybody explain why the Andersen is worth $200 more.

baglo

[techfan]

My Andersen hitch arrived yesterday with everything EXCEPT the install manual. Calls to Andersen and Hitches and More have not been returned. Any chance someone on the forum can copy and post/send me a pdf of the manual so I can install it?? I searched on line and couldn't find a txt or pdf file of this manual anyplace. Much appreciation in advance. Thanks.

[cpaharley2008]

It is only 2 pages long, not too complicated. You run the chain thru the frame mount, slip the bushing and washer and nut on. Do the other side but do not tighten the nut. Install the ball into receiver at the right height to keep the trailer level. You put the collar on the bottom with a pin, ins all the chains, make sure the collar is perpendicular to the trailer. Install the chains holders to frame and check clearances. You may need to move the propane/elecrtic line along the street side frame. Once everything looks like the picture, tighten the bolts on the frame and the little screw hex screws that will bite into your frame to help keep it from moving. Once tight you then start to tighten the chains using the socket and 1/2 drive equally on both sides until the urethane bushing starts to compress and your tow vehicle is back to level.

[techfan]

Thank you. They also got around to sending me a pdf! I will put it on our website for other's future reference. We are switching from an Equal-i-zer hitch which we found very effective but extremely noisy.

[Parker]

This may have been mentioned previously, but Tammy's dad taught us a trick for hooking up (and unhooking). The nuts are lots easier to turn if you use the tongue jack to raise the hitch after locking to the ball. This takes a lot of the tension off the chains, and you can turn the nuts with your fingers for much of the way. You get the added benefit of ensuring the hitch is indeed locked to the ball if you can lift the back of the tow vehicle with it. Just reverse the process when unhooking. Use the tongue jack to lessen the tension in the chains, loosen and remove the chain/yoke assembly, then lower the jack again to get the ball latch undone.

After several times hooking and unhooking, I find the most tedious part of the process is dealing with the basic ball latch. It's getting better with lubrication and use, but I find it to be a little finicky to get latched and unlatched sometimes. I think it's more sensitive to fore and aft loads, especially, on the hitch than I'm used to.

[Popcorn-Billy]

All,

I'm really enjoying this thread. Having towed a 19' Tarus and a 24' Prowler with traditional trunnion bar WD Hitches for thousands of miles and too many hook-ups, I'm anxious to try this one. My last hitch was a Reese with dual cam sway control but I found I had to supplement it with a friction sway control for a secure ride across Montana and South Dakota.

At close to 70 with a somewhat sketchy back at times, the thought of going back to manhandling those bars is daunting. The chain and wrench arrangement looks pretty attractive. The mechanics of the Anderson is impressive even to this ancient Civil Engineer.

Thanks,

Bill

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by techfan

They also got around to sending me a pdf! I will put it on our website for other's future reference.

Did you get a chance to post the PDF? I didn't see it on your site. No rush if you haven't - I just don't know if I'm not looking in the right place.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Popcorn-Billy

All,

I'm really enjoying this thread. Having towed a 19' Tarus and a 24' Prowler with traditional trunnion bar WD Hitches for thousands of miles and too many hook-ups, I'm anxious to try this one. ...

At close to 70 with a somewhat sketchy back at times, the thought of going back to manhandling those bars is daunting.

I use a conventional WD hitch as supplied by Escape with the chains and bars. To minimize the effort required to tension the bars with the chains you should use your front jack to lift up the hitch after it is coupled but before the WD bars are tensioned. This will significantly reduce the effort required to attach the chains and tension the bars. Once that is done, back off on the jack and the bars will take up the load. No effort at all other than operating the jack. You have to operate the jack every time you hitch up or disconnect, anyways whether you are using a conventional WD system or the Anderson system. Thus, effortwise, the Anderson should be no less work than conventional (other than an extra up and down with the jack).

[Sally P]

I've got a 21 on order (Jan delivery, alas, since the web site email wasn't working) and will be towing with a Highlander. Definitely want a WD but I am 70, or so close as to make no never mind. I really worried about hooking one up since I'm not as strong as I once was, and would HATE to be dependent on the kindness of strangers. Reese suggested an Anderson, my local RV place suggested this: Trunnion-Style Light Duty Weight Distribution Kit - 500 lb WD-500

Anyone know anything about it, and which would be easier to use while still being safe?

Sally

[cpaharley2008]

Sally,
I too have a 21' on order, December delivery. I too need a w/d set up if I want to tow with my FJ Cruiser. But I will have no issue with the 65 lb weight of the w/d hitch, you may. The Andersen weighs a lot less and if you use the front jack to raise and lower (increase/decrease tension) you can adjust the settings by hand. You can also remove one pin and the hitch is off. The amount of weight you are moving maybe 20 lbs. With the conventional hitch you mentioned, it will need you to remove 2 steel bars at least 20 lbs each in order to disconnect and involve you lifting same to reinstall. I'd stick with the Andersen. I used one on my 19' which I sold with the trailer last month in preparation for my new one. I'm thinking of getting another one for the new one but need to measure the drop of the new 21', that is unknown at this time until Reace can tell us. We also need to know the ball size and the frame width as well before ordering.

[techfan]

Also remember you are getting anti-sway as well not just weight distribution.

[Sally P]

Thanks. Yes,that anti sway is important too, Tim. Appreciate the weight info,Jim. I think my RV place may not be familiar with the Anderson. I'll go with the Anderson and see how it goes. Coming from a small RV I worry about the hitch/unhitch but look forward to being able to leave my 'shell' in the campground.

[Popcorn-Billy]

Sally,

Read Ice-Breaker's response to me. I've used this technique and it does minimize the effort required to set the trunion bars. Ordering your Escape with an electic tongue jack would further minimize effort in hooking up.

I'm an engineer and I like innovation. The Anderson WDH is a departure from the traditional WDH, so I think I'll have to try it. ;0)

Please understand that I'm not deprecating the WDH as supplied by Escape. It's a tried and true system and I works well, when you use the technique described by Ice-Breaker.

Bill

[gharper]

We picked up our trailer yesterday at Escape in Chilliwack and had the Anderson hitch along with a 7 pin wiring harness and brake controller installed on our 2012 Highlander. I have towed boats and utility trailers with this vehicle but without a WDH hitch.

Once Dennis determined the correct level for the vehicle the hitching was a simple process. Dennis recommends 7 threads exposed when tightening the bolts for our rig and no grease on the ball which could contaminate the elastomers inside.

We towed back to Vancouver Island in busy traffic with a bit of cross wind coming through the Fraser Valley and many big trucks either passing us or us passing them. The Escape 19 towed much better than my old 3800 lb 18.5 ft Double Eagle boat that occasionally swayed in cross winds, creaked and growned and bounced along.

The Anderson WDH was quiet and when turning a small amount of sound was occasionally heard. There was no sway and the Highlander and trailer felt well connected with little bouncing when going over rough roads. Passing a semi-trailer at 100 kms was no problem, no sway or push from the wind coming off the big rig. In the heavy traffic I had to brake quickly and the vehicle and trailer quickly responded tracking straight and slowing down in a controlled manner, much much better than my boat trailer with surge brakes. I had the Prodigy brake controller set at 5.8. Dennis mentioned we may find a need to back that off after a few uses as the brakes get worn in.

Unhooking at home was quick on my first attempt, perhaps taking 3-4 minutes. Take off the chains and electrical plug, lift the jack a few inches, loosen the bolts to 1 thread showing, pull on the chain to give slack in the chain, pull off the pin holding the steel plate with the chains, lift the jack so the hitch is off the ball - done.

Thanks to Dave, Dennis, Kim, Tammi, Reace, and the rest of the crew at Escape trailers for treating us so well and making a great trailer which we will enjoy for years.

[Jrn56]

Thanks for sharing your experience with us and congratulations on your new Escape. We will be picking up our 19 in September with the same setup, Highlander with the Andersen hitch.

John

[dave1]

Thanks for the Andersen WDH report. Being new to towing its good to hear the hitch works well.....I'll need all the help I can get.
Sure wish my tow home was as short as yours. We will be leaving tomorrow early am from Albuquerque NM for a 3 day drive just to get to chilliwack.

Dave

[kstock11]

Thanks for the great update on the Anderson WDH. I'm another newbie to towing and have been agonizing over whether it was worth the extra $. On my last update for my build, I decided to "bite the bullet and go with the Anderson." Now with your confirmation, I feel good about the decision. Now, if the time would speed up a bit! Not only do I need to wait til January, but still need to get the 19' to the East coast. Come on east of Mississippi buyers, get your orders in so we can share a truck!

[Sally P]

Thanks for that update, especially as your tv is a highlander, as is mine. I'm convinced! I was worried as my only previous towing experience has been with honkin big horse trailers. Pulled by really honkin big pickups. Getting 4 mpg so the thread on gas mileage warms my heart.

[Brian B-P]

Thanks for the real-world report.

Originally Posted by gharper

Dennis recommends 7 threads exposed when tightening the bolts for our rig and no grease on the ball which could contaminate the elastomers inside.

Elastomers? There are typically no elastomers inside the coupler, and that isn't changed by the Andersen WD installation anyway. I don't think there are any elastomers inside the hitch head, but it makes sense to me to avoid grease because it might contaminate the friction material there... which should be like brake or clutch lining, not rubbery (elastomeric). The urethane springs are elastomers, but wouldn't be exposed to grease used on the ball.

I assume that Andersen would address the use of grease on the ball, but their installation and operation instructions are not publicly available, as far as I know.

Originally Posted by gharper

The Anderson WDH was quiet and when turning a small amount of sound was occasionally heard.

I assume that's the cone turning in the head... like what you sometimes hear when release a vehicle's brakes and just starting to move.