Anderson weight distribution hitch

[techfan]

The last post on the Andersen was back in August. I have now had BOTH the Andersen and the Equal-i-zer hitch on our tow vehicle for almost the same amount of time. I have done a brief review of our experiences here:

https://sites.google.com/site/ouresc...andersen-hitch

There are advantages to both since they are both anti-sway and weight distribution. I personally don't like the "roll" that comes with the Andersen but do like other features about it. Please read my little review and would like to continue this discussion for others. I'm particularly interested in comments about a "hot" Anderson and backing up. (See my review.)

[cpaharley2008]

I found that without the Andersen, there was more chance of disarray of items inside the trailer because with the Anderson there was less yawl than towing with out. I assume you would say the same about the Equalizer vs Andersen, but I also feel with the solid bars and as you say, the unit is like one, some of the road bumps are transferred to the trailer more easily with the Equalizer than the Andersen. Thus you may nave more disarray of items with the Equalizer?
I'll be giving the Andersen another test this year with the new 21' and report back. By the way, what is your tongue weight on the 15' Escape?

[azjack]

Another vote for the anderson hitch. We have used a number of WDH with a lot of vehicles and trailers. I now want my TV to out weigh the trailer which it has not over the years, of course I'm not talking semi-trucks. Now I have 5300# towing about 4200# and about to be 43 to 4400#. The new trailer is the 21' FULLY LOADED. We bought the trailer on the 22nd of Oct. and the hitch was set up by Dennis and we discussed the adjustments that I'll have to make as the load changed. I really enjoyed the loss of noise most of the time and then we hit a section of two lane that had been repaired after much settling and a direct cross wind of 30 to 40 knots. The trailer didn't move and did not try to move our TV. I'm sold on the Anderson and hope it lasts without replacing the friction materials.
Jack of Tucson

[Parker]

Originally Posted by techfan

There are advantages to both since they are both anti-sway and weight distribution. I personally don't like the "roll" that comes with the Andersen but do like other features about it.

I read your review and am interested in the roll comments. I would be curious to see a comparison of roll with the Andersen and with no WDH at all. Since the Andersen is the only WDH I've every used, I don't have a point of comparison to others. I wonder if the Equalizer does better in this regard because the bars attach closer in to the ball. That gives them a lateral component of force that would probably do more to counteract roll than the Andersen chains that attach out at the ends of the yoke. Also curious about the friction material. After 6,000 miles, the ball is settling down into the friction material an eighth-inch or so in ours, with the friction material itself staying flush with the top of the hitch.
Overall, I'm really pleased with the Andersen for all the reasons you mentioned.

[Brian B-P]

I'm not surprised that the Equal-i-zer (or any conventional two-bar WD system) will affect roll much more than the Andersen No-Sway. Consider what happens in a two-bar system when the trailer rolls compared to the tug: one side pulls down harder and the other less hard, torquing the trailer toward lining up with the tug. Now consider the Andersen in the same situation: the chains on each side take slightly different angles. I haven't done the geometry, but Andersen probably doesn't affect roll much.

Another way to look at it is that a conventional WD works by applying vertical forces at the ball and a couple feet further back on the trailer, so twisting the system and changing those substantial vertical forces so they are different on each side will roll the trailer. In contrast, the Andersen No-Sway works by applying horizontal forces at the ball and several inches lower on the trailer, so twisting the system and changing the forces doesn't have a roll effect.

[Tonny LR]

Thank you everyone for the Anderson WDH report. According to Reace whom I talked to yesterday, a hole was drilled on each side of the frame to stop clamps/brackets shifting. This is mandatory for factory installed Anderson WDH, either owner or factory provided Anderson parts.
Drilling a hole to the frame, is this a new approach or is it a standard practice? Thanks
Tonny

[thoer]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Which is my experience with the $350 weight distribution hitch. I've yet to have anybody explain why the Andersen is worth $200 more.

baglo

Glenn, I am still wondering that same thing. Also, in my mind, the Andersen seems to be adding complexity to what has been a simple proven system.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

Thank you everyone for the Anderson WDH report. According to Reace whom I talked to yesterday, a hole was drilled on each side of the frame to stop clamps/brackets shifting. This is mandatory for factory installed Anderson WDH, either owner or factory provided Anderson parts.
Drilling a hole to the frame, is this a new approach or is it a standard practice? Thanks
Tonny

An issue with the Anderson system arises when the ends of the chains are fastened to a clamp bracket that is bolted to the frame of the trailer, which is held in place by friction only. When the chains are tensioned (and especially when there is some bounce resulting in extra tension during travel), this will tend to cause the bracket on the trailer frame to slip towards the tow vehicle, reducing the chain tension. The reason for bolting the clamp brackets to the frame would be to prevent this slip from occurring. This issue is particular to the Anderson system, as conventional Weight Distribution Hitches with bars will exert vertical forces on the trailer frame clamp brackets rather than horizontal forces, and there is no chance of them slipping. I think I pointed out this advantage of conventional WDH's in page 2 of this thread.

[techfan]

The directions indicate that you can use the set screw and tighten into the frame or drill a hole for it to go into. I created a small crater for the set screw and in 3,700 miles plus have had no slippage. Obviously the hole recommendation is optimum. I scribed a line on both sides of the bracket so I could quickly notice if there was any slippage. It is one of the daily checks we make with this hitch setup.

[cpaharley2008]

There are two set screws that you tighten and they dig a hole in the metal and these are supposed to keep the brackets from slipping. The tighter you make the hitch, the more pressure is exerted on the clamp. In my use of the Andersen, I only needed to tighten down 5 threads, the pressure was not that great and the set screws held the brackets in place. If you find that you need to exert higher pressure ( more weight to overcome) you can certainly screw the bracket via drilling a hole or even weld the bracket in place. Either method would make the Andersen a stronger set up.

As far as comparison, the Andersen weighs about 50% less and takes 50% less time to hitch and unhook and there are no noises involved with steel bars. The hitch is silent and stops sway. If you need a higher capacity w/d set up you may want the conventional, but with the Escape the Andersen should be adequate.

[techfan]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

. By the way, what is your tongue weight on the 15' Escape?

I have mentioned my tongue weight in another thread realizing that I thought it was quite high for the 15, at 380, BUT we now use the fresh water tank to lighten the load on the tongue. I find that I need the fresh water tank to be 2/3 full to keep the tongue weight below 340. So… we travel with more overall weight, but keep the tongue weight down.

I suspect the front box, dual batteries, and the fact that the kitchen on the 15B is up front and the fridge is forward of the axle all have something to do with the heavy tongue weight.

[Tonny LR]

Ice-breaker, Thank you for explaining so well the reason for bolting the clamp bracket to the frame via a whole to prevent brackets from slipping. Now I understood it better. I did not know that this was the method which Escape factory was using and offering as a required option when installing Anderson WDH.
I would like to see a picture of how the bolts through a whole fastening to the frame if anyone can share it. Thanks again.
Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

cpaharley2008.,
I was planning to install the Anderson WDH as you mentioned in this quote "There are two set screws that you tighten and they dig a hole in the metal and these are supposed to keep the brackets from slipping. The tighter you make the hitch, the more pressure is exerted on the clamp". This is no longer the case. Escape factory has to do it for you in your new trailer by drilling wholes to scure the brackets to the frame with bolts. CAD$125 is the labor cost. This is FYI.
Tonny LR

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, I know but I will be installing my own, it is already here awaiting the Escape.

[techfan]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

cpaharley2008.,
. Escape factory has to do it for you in your new trailer by drilling wholes to scure the brackets to the frame with bolts. CAD$125 is the labor cost. This is FYI.
Tonny LR

Wow, that was a fast change just since this summer. I wonder if Andersen had some issues? Does the bolt have to go all the way through the frame? I wonder if Andersen is recommending a retrofit for the rest of us?

[Tonny LR]

Jim,
I forgot that you are having your Escape 21trailer delivered. I am picking mine up in May even it will be ready in February.
Tonny LR

[cpaharley2008]

You do not have to drill the hole if you self install, Escape does as a matter of choice. There has not been any change to the instructions, just the color of the brake material is now black.

[Jrn56]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

As far as comparison, the Andersen weighs about 50% less and takes 50% less time to hitch and unhook and there are no noises involved with steel bars. The hitch is silent and stops sway. If you need a higher capacity w/d set up you may want the conventional, but with the Escape the Andersen should be adequate.

There has been a least a couple people including myself who have experienced a lot of squeaking with the Andersen hitch. I have contacted them about this and am working or will be working with them next sporing to try to isolate where this noise is coming from. Other than the noise I am happy with the hitch and ease of setup.

John

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by thoer

Also, in my mind, the Andersen seems to be adding complexity to what has been a simple proven system.

I don't see the added complexity. Both conventional two-bending-bars-plus-chain and Andersen No-Sway designs have

• a head bracket
• a shank to support the head
• bolts to attach the head to the shank
• a ball in the head
• a spring element on each side
• a chain on each side
• a bracket on each side of the tongue to anchor the chain, and
• some adjustment mechanism

There are lots of detail differences resulting from the different approaches (for instance, the two-bar system has heavy spring bars and reasonably light chains; the Anderson has very light springs and heavy chains), and I'm not suggesting that the Andersen is superior, but fundamentally I don't see extra complication in the Andersen design. Certainly, compared to designs with add-ons such as a Reese Strait-Line, the Andersen less complicated.

[Brian B-P]

In case anyone interested has not seen it, I am attaching the installation manual. Andersen does not offer it from their website, but freely provided it when I asked.

Update: sorry, that failed - the file is about 2 MB and the PDF file upload limit in the forum is 400 KB. I'll see if I can find a way around that...