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Old 09-01-2016, 11:48 AM   #131
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Unless your vehicle's manual specifies a w/d set up, I suggest you tow without one and make that decision yourself. with a 19' tongue weight range from #350 up, you may not require the need to shift weight off your hitch. Each driver/vehicle combo is different and unique.
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:32 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by JPSpins View Post
There is a lot of Canyon expertise in this thread and I have a couple of questions.
I'll be picking up my 19 next June and I am preparing my build while on my learning curve.

I am driving a 2016 Canyon diesel, crew, short box and I'd like to have recommendations on the WD hitches offered by ETI and which mount I should buy for the required 2" ball.

I plan on travelling alone and will keep the weight of cargo (and hopefully myself) well within limits.

JP
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Unless your vehicle's manual specifies a w/d set up, I suggest you tow without one and make that decision yourself. with a 19' tongue weight range from #350 up, you may not require the need to shift weight off your hitch. Each driver/vehicle combo is different and unique.
I also have a 2016 Canyon crew, short box, and I'm pulling a 17B. I don't need a WDH but I use one anyway because it smooths out the ride. Also the longer reach of the stinger allows me to open the tailgate without hitting the landing gear.

Paul
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:36 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker View Post
I also have a 2016 Canyon crew, short box, and I'm pulling a 17B. I don't need a WDH but I use one anyway because it smooths out the ride. Also the longer reach of the stinger allows me to open the tailgate without hitting the landing gear.

Paul
Same reasons for using a WDH for me - towing a 17B with a 2016 Tacoma Off Road.
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:41 PM   #134
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So, Jon and Paul,
The two of you are saying you need to tow with the w/d because it tows better with versus without the set up?
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:47 PM   #135
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So, Jon and Paul,
The two of you are saying you need to tow with the w/d because it tows better with versus without the set up?
I don't "need" to , but having done both, I prefer to.
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:55 PM   #136
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I don't "need" to , but having done both, I prefer to.
Exactly
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:26 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Unless your vehicle's manual specifies a w/d set up, I suggest you tow without one and make that decision yourself. with a 19' tongue weight range from #350 up, you may not require the need to shift weight off your hitch. Each driver/vehicle combo is different and unique.
The Canyon manual suggests, albeit lightly, the use of WD and anti-sway equipment and I will do so. I am new to trailering and I want a safe, pleasant drive from B.C. to Ottawa next summer!
Thank you for the input.
JPS
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:57 AM   #138
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Originally Posted by JPSpins View Post
The Canyon manual suggests, albeit lightly, the use of WD and anti-sway equipment and I will do so. I am new to trailering and I want a safe, pleasant drive from B.C. to Ottawa next summer!
Thank you for the input.
JPS
JPS, The manual for our Ford Explorer did not suggest the sway control, just the W/D. For the reasons you list, we ordered both from ETI and Dennis did a great job with the set-up. We have since experimented towing without the anti-sway and using the W/D only, and we notice no difference. It's one less thing to put on and is easier to back. Good luck next summer!
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:59 AM   #139
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Thank you!
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Old 09-02-2016, 04:28 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by JPSpins View Post
The Canyon manual suggests, albeit lightly, the use of WD and anti-sway equipment and I will do so.
The suggestions certainly are mild...

Weight distributing hitches
Quote:
Many trailers can be towed with a weight-carrying hitch which simply features a coupler latched to the hitch ball, or a tow eye latched to a pintle hook. Other trailers may require a weight-distributing hitch that uses spring bars to distribute the trailer tongue weight among the tow vehicle and trailer axles.
and
Quote:
A weight distributing hitch may be useful with some trailers.
Sway control devices
Quote:
Consider using sway controls with any trailer. Ask a trailering professional about sway controls or refer to the trailer manufacturer's recommendations and instructions.
A "trailering professional" is, of course, normally someone who will make money by selling you some hardware.

There is no requirement or even recommendation to use WD. Larger GM pickups require WD over a specific level, only because their much higher towing capacity means much higher tongue weight.

So why use one? If you know what you are trying to change, you can make a sensible choice.

The basic reason for a weight-distributing hitch is to change the weight (actually load) carried by each axle, normally to relieve an over-loaded rear axle... so if the rear axle is not too heavily loaded, reducing rear axle load is not a reason to use WD. That means the first step is to check that load: measure the axle loads at a scale with the truck loaded for travel, or with it empty and add the stuff you will carry. Pickup trucks are intended to have more load on the rear axle than the front when fully loaded.

The other axle load of interest is the truck's front axle. Some people are concerned that the small reduction in front axle load due to the trailer will cause problems. With a distance from rear axle to hitch ball of about 56", and a wheelbase of 140.5" if you have the longer wheelbase (sorry Jean-Pierre, I don't know which you have) then 40% of the tongue weight will be taken off the front axle; if you have 400 pounds of tongue weight that's 160 pounds off the front axle, or about 6% of the non-towing front axle load. GM's instructions for setting up WD in the Colorado/Canyon's owner's manual is to return the front axle load to what it would be without the trailer, which hints at why they say "A weight distributing hitch may be useful with some trailers".
Quote:
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the spring bars should be adjusted so the [body to ground] distance is the same after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle and adjusting the hitch.
Sway reduction is the other reason people use WD. GM says
Quote:
Consider using sway controls with any trailer.
They don't suggest adding any particular type of system, and the WD system can be the sway control system, which avoids adding more poorly-constructed, heavy, and ineffective hardware from the towing equipment industry. Fundamentally, a sway control system is anything that absorbs energy from the relative movement of the truck and trailer, just like making the pivot of pendulum sticky to keep it from continuing to swing.

A ideal WD system by itself actually makes sway worse by reducing rear axle traction, but actual WD systems have lots of springiness in them that tends to push the coupling toward straight, and they have varying amounts of friction (as an unintended side-effect of crude construction, or deliberately) which damps motion of the coupling (such as sway). No truck with ten to twelve feet of wheelbase should have a sway problem with a 19' tandem-axle travel trailer (my minivan handles a single-axle trailer almost that size with zero stability issues), but if you want a WD system for sway control, it would make sense to me to at least use one with lots of friction - the classic Equal-i-zer or cheaper Fastway E2 or similar sliding-bar design, or the Andersen No-Sway which has a conical rotary brake just for this purpose.


If this was a short SUV with a soft rear suspension, WD and sway control would likely make sense. I'm not sure why a truck needs them.
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