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Old 08-17-2013, 08:41 AM   #11
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Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
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Thoughts on question #1: You mentioned it's clunking when braking. There are two diameters of locking pins available to hold the hitch in the receiver. Any chance you have a 1/2" pin in a 5/8" diameter hole? I only have experience with the Andersen weight distribution hitch (on a Highlander with Reese hitch receiver), but it seems to me if the hitch is adjusted properly, there is enough vertical load on the hitch that it wouldn't move fore and aft very easily when braking. We don't get any clunking noises at all.

Thoughts on question #2: We've only had our Escape a few months, and one of my initial aggravations was getting the hitch to unlatch (it's the standard Escape wrap-around style). Sometimes I had a devil of a time getting the latch to move up and slide back to release the ball. As someone else mentioned, it doesn't work well if there is horizontal tension on it, either pulling or pushing against the ball. The contoured edge of the hitch, or the latching piece behind the ball, wants to stay hooked under the ball. It just takes a little fiddling around, letting the car move an inch maybe, to reduce that side force and everything works fine. The same applies for hitching up, but it's generally not as finicky. Trying to hitch and unhitch, especially unhitching, requires extra care on a slope to get the hitch to come off the ball. This of course is after having the trailer well chocked.
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:40 PM   #12
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We had the same problem. It may just need some lubrication. A white lithium spray grease solved it for us.
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:44 PM   #13
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Mine used to stick also. I sprayed in some lubrication and it works just fine now. I also grease the ball before every use and wipe it off when I de-couple.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:41 PM   #14
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I applied a little lube to the locking part of the hitch on our way home from the factory, and it did work better. I don't grease the ball with the Andersen hitch because the ball turns with the trailer, but it might come unhitched a little easier with some dry lube on it of some sort.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:41 PM   #15
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Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. We tried putting more grease on the ball and just connecting/disconnecting without going anywhere and it did seem to help. Will have to see what happens when we are on a more level "playing field" (ie at the campground). Our hitch is the standard lever type not the wrap around.

Re: backing up with the WD hitch. I've never had any problems backing up with it in place.

Also re hitches: Was at the RV store looking for a couple of things (like a lock) and the person said a fellow had been in that morning looking for hitch locks for their horse trailers because someone had gone around pulling the pins out of the hitches at a horse show so that when the truck pulled forward, the front of the trailer dropped to the ground! Sick people who do these things . Has anyone had trouble with tampering or theft of a hitch when left attached to the truck? I'd been warned that it could happen which was why I was looking for a lock in the first place... I leave the hitch in while we're tootling around because it is too heavy for me to lift in and out. (When we're home it is stored in the garage.)

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Old 08-17-2013, 09:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpsmith View Post
Has anyone had trouble with tampering or theft of a hitch when left attached to the truck?
No. It is possible, but have you had anyone take the wheel nuts off of your car? That's possible, too. Other trailer risks include unplugging the electrical cable and unhooking the safety chains... it isn't practical to lock everything.

The risk that someone has - maliciously or otherwise - changed something in your hitching equipment is a good reason to do a quick visual inspection before each departure.
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:03 PM   #17
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I have a locking hitch pin that serves 2 purposes. One is that it is an antirattle that locks the shank to one side and the other is that it has a lock to hinder removal. See pics
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:41 AM   #18
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I had a locking pin on my receiver which I left in place over the winter. I had one of those break light fixtures in the receiver and did not want it to walk away. The next time I went to remove it in the spring it was rusted on and nothing I tried would free it up. Finally had to go to a garage and get them to torch it off for me. Lesson learned - either find some good lubrication for the lock or exercise it often to make sure it does not freeze up from corrosion.

I don't think I will be getting another licking pin in the future unless I make sure it is only in place for short periods while towing and definitely not in the winter when it is always wet here and salt is on the roads up to Whistler all winter.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:56 AM   #19
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I have used a locking ball mount pin for trailer trips, but I wouldn't leave any ball mount in place long-term.

Quote:
Originally Posted by techfan View Post
I have a locking hitch pin that serves 2 purposes. One is that it is an antirattle that locks the shank to one side and the other is that it has a lock to hinder removal. See pics
The classic J-Pin. This seems like a simple and effective design, but it requires an extra hole on one side of the receiver. This is a Cequent (Reese, Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch) idea; I don't know if anyone else has it, and I don't know if even all of their 2" receivers have it.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:32 AM   #20
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Stainless Steel Locking, Anti-Rattle Threaded Hitch Pin for 2" Trailer Hitches Softride Locks,Hitch Accessories SR25219
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