E2 hitch latch won't' close

[cpaharley2008]

Went out to replace my Jack and looked at mine, the coupler is forward and you can see the slot it rides in, the slot must be 1" long forward to rear to allow some play, thus the tap on the pin should move the coupler forward.

[War Eagle]

As long as we are still using visual aids, let me add a few more. Below are mock-ups (me holding) my Brinks Fusion (welded all, no nut) ball mount up to the area of the coupler latch that appears to be bent in the OP's photos. I don't see how it could have become bent while the latch is closed, but it certainly looks plausible with the latch open. Seems if the OP can bend the metal back into the original position enough that the teeth fit back down into the notches and holes line up to lock the latch down again with a padlock or other security pin, he should be good to go. Or so it seems....

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I agree. The assembly looks like it was somehow bent forward. Almost like someone wrapped the safety chains around the coupler and attached them to a tow vehicle and pulled forward. Hate to even suggest it but is it possible someone tried to steal the trailer?

It takes some work, but after all this talk of hammering one of these kits might be in order:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...d/AT15775.html

That kit absolutely will NOT work. I know because I tried when the POS coupler kept unlatching while hitched. ETI''s coupler is an Atwood knockoff called. RAM. The kit doesn't fit a non-Atwood coupler- don't waste your time.

An Atwood coupler is a whole $32 on Amazon. Why Reace chooses to save a few loonies on such an important component is beyond me, but for those still waiting to have trailers built do yourself a favor and send the real McCoy up for install..

BTW - the Atwood hitches and unhitches with ease too.

[LRL]

Great side by side pics. I'll try hammering it back into place with my forehead, just so I don't damage anything valuable. Will keep you posted on progress.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Went out to replace my Jack and looked at mine, the coupler is forward and you can see the slot it rides in, the slot must be 1" long forward to rear to allow some play, thus the tap on the pin should move the coupler forward.

Lee's coupler is already forward. The yoke hides the slot in most photos, but the sliding pin - and the jaw underneath - must be in the proper forward position for the yoke to come down... that's the fundamental basis of the coupler's design. When the yoke, pin, and jaw are already forward, trying to move them further is pointless and can only cause damage if significant force is used.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Rossue

That kit absolutely will NOT work. I know because I tried when the POS coupler kept unlatching while hitched. ETI''s coupler is an Atwood knockoff called. RAM. The kit doesn't fit a non-Atwood coupler- don't waste your time.

An Atwood coupler is a whole $32 on Amazon. Why Reace chooses to save a few loonies on such an important component is beyond me, but for those still waiting to have trailers built do yourself a favor and send the real McCoy up for install.

Good catch. I thought it was an Atwood coupler. I found the RAM coupler on etrailer for only $20. They indicate in their Q&A that they asked the manufacturer and a repair kit is not available. They recommend replacing the entire coupler with an Atwood ($55). Not the easiest undertaking since it is welded on.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Lee's coupler is already forward. The yoke hides the slot in most photos, but the sliding pin - and the jaw underneath - must be in the proper forward position for the yoke to come down... that's the fundamental basis of the coupler's design. When the yoke, pin, and jaw are already forward, trying to move them further is pointless and can only cause damage if significant force is used.

You can clearly see the slot on mine when my yoke is forward, maybe 3/8" is showing.

[War Eagle]

Though my coupler is also a RAM and stamped "Made In China", it appears to be well made, and it functions as designed. So I have no beef with it. I believe that as long as I treat it well and maintain it well, it will serve me well. Time will tell....

[Jubal]

https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra.../BD028287.html

No hammers, screw drivers, bouncing or kicking. $60 remove and replace.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by Jubal

https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra.../BD028287.html
No hammers, screw drivers, bouncing or kicking

Once you've had one of these you will never go back!
If I were replacing the coupler I'd go with the Bulldog. Positive locking, very easy, much less risk of becoming separated.

[LRL]

Brian totally nailed it. I applied a bit of heavy metal pounding, and got everything back where it belongs, and all works perfectly now. I suspect, looking back at our various trials and tribulations, that the trailer slid forwards onto the hitch once after disconnecting. This would explain the bend. In any event it all works again. Thanks everyone - especially Brian - for your insight and suggestions. Love the forum!

[StarvingHyena]

Welcome Lee and Nancy,
As you have probably observed ... there is nothing ... well ...except a good road trip .. better than a good problem. We are blessed with some very astute trailer pullers. Glad to have you both on board.

Tom

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by LRL

I applied a bit of heavy metal pounding, and got everything back where it belongs, and all works perfectly now.

Originally Posted by LRL

I suspect, looking back at our various trials and tribulations, that the trailer slid forwards onto the hitch once after disconnecting. This would explain the bend.

As they say, Stuff Happens...

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

... As they say, "Stuff" Happens...

Religious use of wheel chocks can help prevent a lot of "stuff". I stopped in at our local farmer's co-op a few years back, and their big commercial fertilizer spreader was smashed to pieces. They said a farmer borrowed it (which is part of the deal if one buys their fertilizer), had it loaded with about a ton of fertilizer, and parked it overnight on a hill top on his farm. He disconnected the spreader to drive the tractor back to the shop that night, and he did not chock the wheels of the spreader. The farmer found the spreader crumpled in a heap at the bottom of the hill the next morning. Wheel chocks are really cheap insurance against all kinds of accidents, big and small.

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Just to reduce confusion...

• The "E2" is one of the available weight-distribution systems; it is unrelated to the problem described.
  

Thank you for removing the E2 from the equation. It has nothing to do with this problem.

Red Dog

[Bill_75]

You guys are great..........and a special thanks to Brian too. I wish I would've had you'all with us when we were in that campground 3000 miles from home.

On the :

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

It is If Bill's coupler yoke was bent the same was as this appear to be, the bent part could have been hammered back to the way it was supposed to be. Without an explanation from Reace, there is no way to know what was actually done; without knowing that Lee and Bill had the same problem, there is no reason to think that the solution would be the same.

Yes, agreed, scrutinizing Lee's pictures(I should've take pictures of ours when it was damaged), his is more bent/worse, although in the exact same way, as ours was. It appears the "teeth" on Lee's handle are 1/2 or so from their notches, vs ours that were only a 1/8 - 1/4 inch or so, and close enough to allow a small pin to be inserted, not the large stock one.

Originally Posted by LRL

Brian totally nailed it. I applied a bit of heavy metal pounding, and got everything back where it belongs, and all works perfectly now. I suspect, looking back at our various trials and tribulations, that the trailer slid forwards onto the hitch once after disconnecting. This would explain the bend. In any event it all works again. Thanks everyone - especially Brian - for your insight and suggestions. Love the forum!

Its possible we did the same thing, the trailer sliding forward, or my car backward, and banging the handle with the hitch. Would you think its also possible to bend it by hand ? I am a trailer newbie, and this was our maiden voyage, so was probably applying torque where torque should not have been needed, ie unlatching/latching and pushing/pulling pretty hard on that handle.

The before and after pictures were very telling.....thanks for that. Hopefully this thread helps the next person that runs into this.

Again, thank to you all on the forum, the pointers/guidance is definitely appreciated.