E2 hitch latch won't' close - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-03-2017, 09:03 AM   #1
LRL
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E2 hitch latch won't' close

After two weeks of working perfectly I can no longer get the hitch latch to sit into its receiver holes. The front part of the latch seats easily over the hitch, but the rear part, with the handle, won't' snap down and back as it's supposed to. This is the case whether or not there is a ball in place.
Any suggestions?
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:40 AM   #2
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If available apply some ball lube, the paint could be binding it.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:04 AM   #3
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I have a terrible time with mine if my trailer and tow vehicle are not in line (on the same plane). But, if I understand you correctly, you say that yours is binding even without coupling to the trailer ball. I agree that some hitch grease (or maybe even WD-40) might lubricate the latch enough to close easily.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:45 AM   #4
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Hi: LRL... It needs an attitude adjustment!!! A five lb. sledge carefully aimed should do it. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:01 AM   #5
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I'm not a fan of this coupler, it's very difficult to latch and unlatch and can smash fingers easily when trying to get it open when unhitching. I keep a screwdriver in the tow kit now, just to deal with the coupler. Need to add Alf's hammer as well.
Probably some lube will help, Lee. I haven't looked closely at it to see if there is any adjustment capability, maybe someone will know that answer. Does your coupler still safely engage the ball even though the tabs don't fully seat?
Personally, I'm thinking of having it changed out to a Bulldog coupler at some point.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:46 AM   #6
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Thanks all. The coupler does appear to close around the ball, yes. And that is correct, the top handle won't settle into place regardless of what I do. I've tried WD 40 and silicon spray. Haven't tried hammering the thing down. That sounds sort of brutal.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:49 AM   #7
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Do the holes for the lock pin line up?

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Old 04-03-2017, 12:08 PM   #8
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The holes line up just fine, but the lock won't slide posteriorly to let the pins slide into the holes. Again... this worked perfectly until yesterday afternoon. I can't for the life of me figure out what I did differently that would have changed this.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:34 PM   #9
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I didn't realize how sticky mine was until I went out to duplicate your problem. Hence, the copious amounts of fresh oil.

It looks like the latch assembly is hinged and rotates on a pin. But the pin is also in a slot. Hammer from the rear forward and see if that doesn't let the tabs drop into the slots.

I can see that the interior mechanism needs to be able to rotate and that it's a close fit. It wouldn't take much to jam it up.

Ron
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:36 PM   #10
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Interesting problem. Mechanically, it should be a simple up-down pivoting of the latch and a forward-back sliding of the yolk. Doesn't seem like there is much that can go wrong unless something (like a small piece of gravel?) has fund a way to wedge itself into some place and create a binding force. Does one side or the other of the yolk seem more willing to budge forward and back compared to the other side? Whichever side won't budge is likely where a mechanical "insult" might be occurring. With the latch lifted to prevent damage to it, perhaps a light tap forward and back on the yolk on each side, with something more tender than a 5 pound sledge hammer, would actually be in order to see if that might knock some small foreign body out of the mechanism. It's worth a try, but as they say in the world of medicine, "First, do no harm!". Good luck. Please keep us posted....

P.S. I just saw where Ron beat me to it - with nice visual aids, no less!
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