E2 Trunnion Hitch on the Road

[Bill_75]

Originally Posted by dbawden

So I'm going across the US on a six month trip in my 21' Escape. We are now into 4-5000+ miles using this hitch. It still clunks on tight uneven corners and scares the begeezes out of my wife. Manual says to expect this during break in and some noise is to be expected. No problem. What bothers me is the link plates that support the stabilization rods keep shifting out of vertical. You'd think...just tighten them. Right. The manual says...tighten to 65-75 pounds (check) and have no further than 30" from ball (check).

My link plates keep moving out of vertical no matter how I tighten them. There is also serious abrasion where the bars hit the link plates. In addition the both "L" retaining mechanism have bent on both sides. (The manual says to just switch sides to "increase positive contact".) Okay.

Are others experiencing this?

Hi,

We had a similar experience with our '21 we picked up last month.

ETI installed/configured the E2E for us when we picked up the trailer, and it had squeals, groans and disconcerting "pops" on turns.

First night out camping we have, I think, a user(me) error, and the hitch coupling latch is somehow bent(too much downward pressure trying to latch it?), so we head back to ETI to have it fixed, as it now won't completely close on the ball, making us, as you'd expect, very, very nervous towing, being complete novices(although a guy we hired to come out to look at it, said it was good to tow).

Back at ETI Reace fixes the coupling latch for us with a sledge hammer(hey, it worked) and we mention the squeals, groans and pops coming out of the E2E. So, he inspects the hitch, and raises our L bars a notch, adds 6 PSI to our tires and we're on our way.

Until it squeals while we're leaving the ETI parking lot. So we head back.

Reace re-inspects and adds grease to the knuckles(upper and lower) on the trunion bars as well as the hitch ball. We circle the ETI lot 4 - 5 times testing, still an occasional groan and pop, but a lot less frequent.

Now, 4000 miles on it, still an occasional pop or groan, but we're used to it.

We do have some(I wouldn't call it significant) wear on the L bars(but you're supposed to) and we've never had our L bars move or pins bend.

It sounds like yours may need an adjustment. Maybe over adjusted, would be my guess.

ETI gave us a hard copy of the E2E install/config guide, but a .pdf can also be found here :

http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-con...tions_0212.pdf

Good luck

[Bill_75]

Hi,

Sorry, looking at your picture, are you missing 2 nuts/bolts, part #'s 5, 8 and 9 on page 2 of the E2 .pdf ? Or, is the picture of your L bars/trunions partially dis-assembled ?

Ours has 2 additional nuts/bolts on each L bar.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dbawden

...What bothers me is the link plates that support the stabilization rods keep shifting out of vertical. You'd think...just tighten them. Right. The manual says...tighten to 65-75 pounds (check) and have no further than 30" from ball (check).

My link plates keep moving out of vertical no matter how I tighten them. There is also serious abrasion where the bars hit the link plates. In addition the both "L" retaining mechanism have bent on both sides.

Since there seems to be some confusion about terminology...

• the bolts with nuts on the inner side pull the link plates together
• what the spring bars ride on are the "L-brackets", not the link plates
• the retaining mechanism is the "L-pin"

Since the L-brackets are mounted onto studs welded to the link plates, the L-brackets and link plates shift together.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Bill_75

... looking at your picture, are you missing 2 nuts/bolts, part #'s 5, 8 and 9 on page 2 of the E2 .pdf ? Or, is the picture of your L bars/trunions partially dis-assembled ?

Ours has 2 additional nuts/bolts on each L bar.

Those are the bolts which clamp the frame between the inner and outer link plates (items 6 and 7 in the diagram in the version of the manual which Bill linked). Without those, the brackets would be lying on the ground... they're just not visible in the photo in the original post, because they are covered by the L-bracket (item 4 in the same diagram, which is shown below).

The trunnions are at the hitch end of the spring bars; what we're looking at is the bracket at the trailer end of each spring bar.

[dbawden]

Thank you for the analysis and suggestions. The hitch was installed when I picked up my 21 at the factory. The solution suggested by the manufacturer for the "walking" (as the manual terms the movement of the supports) is supposedly fixed by insuring the brackets are bolted parallel to the trailer and then tighten evenly to the specified amount. (Check and check).

I noticed this problem on our first 3000 mile trip last March to California. I disassembled the L brackets and put the supports back into vertical. I tightened to over the recommended amount to insure they did not slip again. On this trip (I'm now outside of Montreal from the west coast) the problem showed up again within a week on the road.)

Tomorrow I'll take them apart again, realign, and break out the torc wrench. I'll also get a sledge hammer and straighten the retaining pins. "Flipping" them over as the manual suggests makes no sense to me whatsoever. They are both bent in the same direction and switching them will not provide "further positive" placement.

I'll get back to you with the solution I finally come up with. I was just curious if others have had this issue.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dbawden

Tomorrow I'll take them apart again, realign, and break out the torc wrench. I'll also get a sledge hammer and straighten the retaining pins.

While you're at it, could you confirm that the bolts are in the correct holes in the link plates, and that the link plates have not bent?

[Parker]

I overlooked your comment in the original post about the bent retaining pins. Are you referring to the two L-shaped pins that hold the bars in place? They bent?? We just installed a 6,000# Equalizer hitch, and while we only have 1,000 miles on it, there are no signs of bending pins (or moving brackets, for that matter). I wonder about the heat treatment of the original parts, including the bolts holding the side plates on the rails. If the bolt quality is not up to specs, maybe it's not squeezing tightly enough on the rails. Same for the pins. Pure speculation on my part, but there just aren't many other things to consider.

[Parker]

Just one more thought on this....the nearby welding (they did our frame reinforcement) / trailer / snowplow / trailer hitch company that convinced me to spring for the Equalizer version of this hitch said that if it's too noisy, it's worth trying a little petroleum jelly on the friction surfaces of the L brackets. They said it's a poor lubricant and won't reduce the friction all that much, but it can help quiet things down. This may be heresy to some, including the hitch manufacturer, but I think I'd consider just a little dry lubricant of some kind. I just don't hear much at all about sway issues with double axle Escapes, and you obviously have a tremendous amount of friction between the bars and L brackets....possibly way more than you need. I'm not recommending it, but I think I'd try it if it were me.

[Losangeles]

good general info here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77YdQEHfxTc

[dbawden]

Yes the bolts are in the correct location (top)...this leaves about 1/4 inch gap below the frame and the lower bolt. When tightened to 65# torc the lower bolt bends the lower portion of the link plates slightly together.

I've realigned and torced the plates. I'll check weight distribution before I head out for New Brunswick on the next portion of the journey. As mentioned I'll provide an update in a few weeks.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dbawden

Yes the bolts are in the correct location (top)...this leaves about 1/4 inch gap below the frame and the lower bolt. When tightened to 65# torc the lower bolt bends the lower portion of the link plates slightly together.

Thanks.
It's disappointing that there is so much clearance between the bolts and the frame, not because the bolts should touch the frame (they should not) but because the longer that clearance distance, the more bending occurs.

The top bolts are not supposed to support the bracket by bearing against the top of the frame rail. I would place the bracket so that 1/4" of space is divided roughly equally between top and bottom, not all at the bottom; this would give the link plates a better chance of clamping evenly. Perhaps other E2 owners have noticed how their brackets are placed... and what you can get away with.

Unfortunately the installation manual doesn't address this, and all of the drawings suggest that there will be no significant clearance with the bolts in the right holes and a frame rail a whole multiple of 1/2". The frame is a full 4" tall, right?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by dbawden

...this leaves about 1/4 inch gap below the frame and the lower bolt.

A piece of 1/4" flat plate inserted between the lower bolt and the frame will stop the pivoting. I hope it stops for you but if it doesn't, you might want to try the shim.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

A piece of 1/4" flat plate inserted between the lower bolt and the frame will stop the pivoting.

But the shim is to make the bolts hit positive stops to keep the bracket from pivoting, and that means letting it slide until the bolts hit hard enough to stop it. It's not supposed to move at all, and the shim won't help clamping action; it is the clamping that is supposed to keep the bracket in place. If the shim is as wide as the frame, so the link plates touch it, the shim will keep the plates from clamping properly onto the frame.

If the shim is narrower, it still doesn't help clamping, and it forces the plates to be unevenly placed on the frame rail, which makes even clamping unlikely.

[dbawden]

Yes the frame rails are 4". Incidentally, I like the way your mind works. When I hit the road again in about a week and need to try another alternative, I'll try your splitting the difference.

Right now I'm taking a week off the road in a home-exchange and enjoying some French wine. The IGA store here is incredible. They have 20 types of liver pate, fresh oysters and mussels. These French Quebecers know how to eat. With all the French being spoken I feel like I'm back in Brittany.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by dbawden

Yes the frame rails are 4". Incidentally, I like the way your mind works. When I hit the road again in about a week and need to try another alternative, I'll try your splitting the difference.

Right now I'm taking a week off the road in a home-exchange and enjoying some French wine. The IGA store here is incredible. They have 20 types of liver pate, fresh oysters and mussels. These French Quebecers know how to eat. With all the French being spoken I feel like I'm back in Brittany.

Hi: dbawden... But do they have "Poutine"? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[dbawden]

Update:

So...another week on the road and at Prince Edward Island National Park...4,400 miles from home. I now know about "Poutine" is all about. No further problems on the brackets "walking".

Solution: I noticed ESCAPE did not use lock washers on the bracket so I added that and carefully retorqued bracket nuts down. In addition the locking nuts holding L bracket were getting messed up from my abuse so I replaced them with full size ones. Torqued them down again.

As we head south to Florida, if things change on this subject I'll get back to you.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by dbawden

Update:

So...another week on the road and at Prince Edward Island National Park...4,400 miles from home. I now know about "Poutine" is all about. No further problems on the brackets "walking".

Solution: I noticed ESCAPE did not use lock washers on the bracket so I added that and carefully retorqued bracket nuts down. In addition the locking nuts holding L bracket were getting messed up from my abuse so I replaced them with full size ones. Torqued them down again.

As we head south to Florida, if things change on this subject I'll get back to you.

Thanks so much for the updates. Much appreciated.

I myself really want the convenience of not having to remove a sway bar before backing up. So the e2 is best for us.

[dbawden]

Last Update: 9000 miles into the trip...currently in Tampa...no further problems since corrective action taken.

[thoer]

Currently I have the E2 on my build list for our 21. With our 17B I had just the basic Pro Series and was very happy with it. But since we will be closer to the various weight limits with the 21 and our Highlander I thought the E2 would be a good bet.

Are those of you who have them satisfied?
Have most of the problems discussed here been remedied?
Are you able to back up satisfactorily without removing it?

Thanks for sharing any experiences those of you who are using one have to offer.

[Parker]

We have the US-built Equal-i-zer version of that same hitch on our 19' and Highlander and have not had a single problem with it. I love it. Backing up is no issue at all. I don't know the origin of the idea of removing it (the bars, I guess) for backing, but nothing like that is required. I think the removal idea comes from external sway control units that may have limited travel.