Hensley Hitch vs a basic WDH with Sway Bar - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Walter View Post
I have always connected the breakaway wire and clip to one of the rings that the safety chains attach to on the hitch. I guess that would not be a great place if the entire hitch decided to fall off when towing, but that is where Dennis suggested we attach it when he set up the trailer hitch at the time of pickup from ETI.
I think that's perfectly appropriate. The idea is to attach on the vehicle side of any removable components (such as the ball mount or WD hitch head), and the safety chain loops are not removable. Any location suitable for safety chains is suitable (structurally, at least) for the breakaway switch cable.
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:31 AM   #22
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I guess I don’t understand the wisdom of putting a $2000 hitch on a 12 year old vehicle
The hitch would probably be worth more the vehicle .
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:05 PM   #23
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Sway is generally a result of improper loading & balancing of the trailer. This video clip illustrates that better than words ever can. Always make sure that you get a proper 10-15% tongue weight. Don't guess, get a hitch scale or use a lever (2 chunks of wood) & a bathroom scale to make sure you are where you need to be.

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Old 06-20-2018, 07:32 PM   #24
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and sway is more prevalent in single axle trailers then tandem axles.....
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:18 PM   #25
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and sway is more prevalent in single axle trailers then tandem axles.....
True, but it's still very real with double axle rigs.

If I load my tractor forward its unpleasant & twitchy to tow. Load it backwards with a bit more tongue weight & it tows much nicer.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-21-2018, 05:53 AM   #26
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True, but it's still very real with double axle rigs.

If I load my tractor forward its unpleasant & twitchy to tow. Load it backwards with a bit more tongue weight & it tows much nicer.Attachment 32338
That seems to be the opposite, forward will give you more tongue weight, backward will lighten the tongue weight. Too low tongue weight results in sway, in single and double axle units. You want the trailer level and 10-15% on the tongue. Better to be a little heavy vs a little light for sway reasons.
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:32 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
That seems to be the opposite, forward will give you more tongue weight, backward will lighten the tongue weight. Too low tongue weight results in sway, in single and double axle units. You want the trailer level and 10-15% on the tongue. Better to be a little heavy vs a little light for sway reasons.
I think that what he was saying is that loading the tractor facing backwards (i.e. back of tractor facing the tow vehicle) puts more weight on the hitch than loading the tractor facing forwards (front of tractor facing tow vehicle), and the case with the heavier hitch weight provides a better more stable tow.
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:15 AM   #28
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When we hauled tractors, backhoes, dozers, etc, we paid attention to get the heaviest part of the load centered over the axles. Then we would creep the load forward or backward to level up the trailer and tow. Towing very slightly nose down on the trailer tongue assured a tight lockup on the rig when traveling over rough roads, railroad tracks, road dips in intersections etc. This is somewhat different than towing the Escape in that you can’t adjust then centering of the load very much. Adjusting the tongue weight is mostly through adding or subtracting weight on the ends. That said, the 10 to about 12.5 % tongue weight will often leave the rig slightly nose heavy. Adjustment of the WDH compensates for that and a solid lockup can be achieved. I’ve never paid much attention to side to side travel trailer loading but the tongue scale is a good thing to have and use. No sway and no porpoising are good things. If you have a garage or flat wall you can pull up to, you can check your horizontal alignment before and after hookup using the headlights at about 10 feet back from the wall. Match the with and without trailer on, headlight focus. You’ll need a level surface for the rig to set on. You can also measure the height from the ground to the top of the arc of your fender before and after hookup. This will keep you from annoying oncoming drivers with your headlights on low beams. Sherline Scale tape measure and garage door “Where science meets shade tree.”
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
and sway is more prevalent in single axle trailers then tandem axles.....

The really great thing about ETI's current lone single axle trailer, the 17, is that it just does not sway. There's 12 feet between the ball and the axle, and the 17 tends to be nose heavy, even with batteries at the rear. So, I have been totally unsuccessful in trying to induce sway in a variety of conditions.
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:02 PM   #30
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The really great thing about ETI's current lone single axle trailer, the 17, is that it just does not sway. There's 12 feet between the ball and the axle, and the 17 tends to be nose heavy, even with batteries at the rear. So, I have been totally unsuccessful in trying to induce sway in a variety of conditions.
Same with our 19. Just doesn't sway. Honestly, this topic of the Hensley hitch comes up on the forum from time to time, and my opinion hasn't changed. Why spend over 2 grand for a hitch system that's unnecessary?
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Old 06-22-2018, 01:35 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Dave Walter View Post
I think that what he was saying is that loading the tractor facing backwards (i.e. back of tractor facing the tow vehicle) puts more weight on the hitch than loading the tractor facing forwards (front of tractor facing tow vehicle), and the case with the heavier hitch weight provides a better more stable tow.
Correct, i've switched to loading the tractor facing backwards to get more weight to the front of the trailer. Tractor & loader come to about 5,000lbs. And as the rear end is cast steel & filled hydraulic fluid it ends up being heavier than the front. If you look at the tires, it ends up being pretty easy to figure out where the traction & weight is at. The rear tires are also 75% full of beet juice (25% heavier than water & doesn't freeze until 40 below). The green mower on the back is 1,800lbs too.

Another thing to consider in addition to proper tongue weight is getting most of the weight as close to the axles as possible rather than way out at either end. The further out the weight, the more momentum it has. The same reason ice skaters pull in their arms to spin faster or & move in a more agile manner. Not always possible, especially with a travel trailer. But if you are tossing gear in, try & put it over the axles or as far forward as needed to get the proper tongue weight.
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