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Old 10-30-2018, 11:21 AM   #1
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Hide a goose?

Have any of you do-it-yourselfers installed your own hide a gooseneck for using an Andersen Ultimate?

My inclination is to do it myself, but I sure would feel better about it if others have done it too. Some of it is I have a vast array of tools at my disposal.

I intend to do it in a 2013 F150 Super Crew with a 5.5 bed

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 10-30-2018, 11:42 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Have any of you do-it-yourselfers installed your own hide a gooseneck for using an Andersen Ultimate?

My inclination is to do it myself, but I sure would feel better about it if others have done it too. Some of it is I have a vast array of tools at my disposal.

I intend to do it in a 2013 F150 Super Crew with a 5.5 bed

Thanks,

Frank
It's not hard. A few tools, may need to buy/borrow 4 inch hole saw to cut the hole in the bed. It is also worth getting a 7 pin outlet for the trailer put in the bed of the truck where you can reach it.
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Old 10-30-2018, 12:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Chris R View Post
It's not hard. A few tools, may need to buy/borrow 4 inch hole saw to cut the hole in the bed. It is also worth getting a 7 pin outlet for the trailer put in the bed of the truck where you can reach it.
Thanks Chris! A few questions:

1. What kind of truck did you install it in?
2. What kind of gooseneck did you use?

I have more than enough tools to do the job (including the 4" hole saw). We intend to buy a 5.0TA within the next year or so, but are hoping maybe for a lightly used one that I could just go get.

Frank
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Old 10-30-2018, 01:04 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Thanks Chris! A few questions:

1. What kind of truck did you install it in?
2. What kind of gooseneck did you use?

I have more than enough tools to do the job (including the 4" hole saw). We intend to buy a 5.0TA within the next year or so, but are hoping maybe for a lightly used one that I could just go get.

Frank
I did not do a gooseneck but a regular 5th wheel rails in my Toyota Tundra. I bought a kit w/truck specific brackets and it was relatively easy...a couple of the bolts were a PITA to get to but not impossible. The gooseneck setups I have seen look easy enough...especially if you get the kit, they come with good instructions and even brackets to move things in the way and someone has already done the work of fitting it to your truck. Just block the tires well so your truck doesn't end up in Coeymans!
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Old 10-30-2018, 01:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ian and Sue View Post
I did not do a gooseneck but a regular 5th wheel rails in my Toyota Tundra. I bought a kit w/truck specific brackets and it was relatively easy...a couple of the bolts were a PITA to get to but not impossible. The gooseneck setups I have seen look easy enough...especially if you get the kit, they come with good instructions and even brackets to move things in the way and someone has already done the work of fitting it to your truck. Just block the tires well so your truck doesn't end up in Coeymans!
Actually we live in Coeymans, but have a Ravena mailing address.
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Old 10-30-2018, 02:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Actually we live in Coeymans, but have a Ravena mailing address.
My mother lives in New Baltimore...they used to own a rental property in Coeymans! You are thinking about a 5.0 TA again?
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Old 10-30-2018, 02:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Thanks Chris! A few questions:

1. What kind of truck did you install it in?
2. What kind of gooseneck did you use?

I have more than enough tools to do the job (including the 4" hole saw). We intend to buy a 5.0TA within the next year or so, but are hoping maybe for a lightly used one that I could just go get.

Frank
I installed a Draw-tite hide-a-goose in our 2017 F150 supercrew 5.5' bed. It was doable but an air wrench would have saved a lot of work. The Draw-tite center section attaches to the cross members with vertical bolts that require 212 ft lb of torque. The B&W hitch uses horizontal bolts that require only 110 ft lb so should be easier with just a torque wrench.

Also, the Draw-tite cross members were too large to slide under the truck bed from the side even though the directions showed it that way. I finally found a way lying on my back to wrestle them in at an angle without having to remove anything under the bed - difficult and frustrating. I've been satisfied with the finished product but don't think the money saved justified the extra work for the Draw-tite.
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Old 10-30-2018, 02:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Tom and Gay View Post
The B&W hitch uses horizontal bolts that require only 110 ft lb so should be easier with just a torque wrench.
B&W like this Tom?: https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/F...WGNRK1104.html
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Old 10-30-2018, 04:36 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Thanks Chris! A few questions:

1. What kind of truck did you install it in?
2. What kind of gooseneck did you use?

Frank
I have a 2017 F150 SCrew with a 5.5 ft bed. Installed a CURT Double Lock Gooseneck Hitch Kit #60724. We use the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum version. Ball is hidden when not setup to tow and the Andersen Gooseneck is way lighter than any regular fifth wheel hitch.
I had the standard rail setup in a previous truck and they were a PITA when not towing.
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Old 10-30-2018, 05:36 PM   #10
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Yes, costs more than mine but looks simpler.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:32 PM   #11
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I installed one in my truck. Took the better part of the afternoon, half of which was checking, double checking, and a final check on the position of the hole for the gooseneck receiver. Nailed it.
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Old 10-30-2018, 11:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Have any of you do-it-yourselfers installed your own hide a gooseneck for using an Andersen Ultimate?

My inclination is to do it myself, but I sure would feel better about it if others have done it too. Some of it is I have a vast array of tools at my disposal.

I intend to do it in a 2013 F150 Super Crew with a 5.5 bed

Thanks,

Frank

Under bed goose neck ball Install on 2013 F150 if you have not seen. Lot's of other install videos as well.



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Old 10-30-2018, 11:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Have any of you do-it-yourselfers installed your own hide a gooseneck for using an Andersen Ultimate?

My inclination is to do it myself, but I sure would feel better about it if others have done it too. Some of it is I have a vast array of tools at my disposal.

I intend to do it in a 2013 F150 Super Crew with a 5.5 bed

Thanks,

Frank
I installed the B & W turn-over ball (never do rails again!) in my 2018 f150 with the 6.5 foot bed. Like Jim I checked the location of the 4 inch hole several times before drilling a hole in my brand new truck. Not too bad, I think I did both the hitch and the 7-pin in the bed in a half a day. I love the Aluminum Anderson, those heavy old school types are for those with strong backs.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:29 AM   #14
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Maybe it's easier to do the B&W in newer F150's? I'm sure open to suggestions, as I will be retired, and have been measuring three time and cutting once for 50 years now.

The aluminum Andersen Ultimate is the only one I could even possibly lift! I'm trying to figure out the gooseneck first. There's no question I will install a 7 pin in the side of the bed. I could not imagine doing otherwise.

Kent, I'll watch that video a bit later today. I often forget to look at YouTube for stuff like this.

Thanks for all the helpful comments. You guys are the best!

Frank
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Old 12-26-2018, 12:49 PM   #15
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5.0 Hitch Mounting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris R View Post
With all the discussion about F150 short box pickups towing 5.0TA’s, I thought I would give my 2 cents.

With the F150, we got a Curt under mount hidden ball hitch, the ball is 2+ inches in front of the rear axle. We also use the Andersen aluminum 5th wheel hitch. Due to the 5.5 inch offset, the ball on the Andersen mount that attaches to the trailer is about 2 inches behind the rear axle.

The receiver part that attaches to the trailer can be attached in front of or behind the trailer pin. I tried both positions and having it in front works well.

I was concerned about the truck height being too high for the trailer, but this turned out to be not an issue. There is about 8-9 inches between the truck bedsides and the trailer frame. The trailer sits about 1 inch high at the front when on the truck. I do have to be aware when turning sharply as the trailer could hit the cab, but it hasn’t come close and I don’t foresee needing to turn 90 degrees. The only downside is raising the trailer a bit more to get it over the ball and not being able to open the tailgate when the trailer is attached. Neither one is a showstopper.
Overall, this combo works well for us.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolCampingKid View Post
I installed the B & W turn-over ball (never do rails again!) in my 2018 f150 with the 6.5 foot bed. Like Jim I checked the location of the 4 inch hole several times before drilling a hole in my brand new truck. Not too bad, I think I did both the hitch and the 7-pin in the bed in a half a day. I love the Aluminum Anderson, those heavy old school types are for those with strong backs.
Hi Bill,
As noted above Chris R's tailgate will not open when hitched, is that your experience as well?

Is your setup the same, turn over ball 2" in front of axle, your Andersen Ultimate mounted to the rear position and the Coupler Block mounted with the ball to the rear?

I would like to hear from others who are using either of the Andersen Untimate's (the rail or the gooseball mount) experiences in this regard.

My reasoning is I am contemplating mounting the Ultimate more toward the rear. I have plenty of payload and from other posts in this forum having the ball somewhat rearward should not be a problem due to the weight of the 5.0 compared to LARGE 5th wheels (Trademasters mounted one 5" behind on a 2017 5.0TA GMC Canyon Short Bed and another owner left his slider in the rear position permanently). Of course these might not be the ideal, but it is what it is.
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronn View Post
I would like to hear from others who are using either of the Andersen Untimate's (the rail or the gooseball mount) experiences in this regard.
I have been using the B&W Turnover Ball Gooseneck Hitch with the Anderson Ultimate Fifth Wheel Hitch for 3 years now, two with my 5.0TA. If I have the truck lined up straight to the trailer I can open my tailgate with 1-2" clearance to the trailer frame.

When I am backing to the trailer at an angle, I back in with the tailgate down to near the trailer, close the tailgate, then back the rest of the way to hitch up. I do the reverse when disconnecting too.

I had tried turning the pin connector around to give me more tailgate opening space, but this does not work well as the pin box is too close to the tailgate then. Plus, I do like being as short as possible.

All in all, I really like this setup. Being a working stiff for the last couple years the gooseneck mount was great for removal of the Anderson hitch and giving me a clean bed to use, but if I was to do it now that I am semi-retired and not needed the truck bed for other stuff as much, I would likely just do the rail mount version.
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I have been using the B&W Turnover Ball Gooseneck Hitch with the Anderson Ultimate Fifth Wheel Hitch for 3 years now, two with my 5.0TA. If I have the truck lined up straight to the trailer I can open my tailgate with 1-2" clearance to the trailer frame.

When I am backing to the trailer at an angle, I back in with the tailgate down to near the trailer, close the tailgate, then back the rest of the way to hitch up. I do the reverse when disconnecting too.

I had tried turning the pin connector around to give me more tailgate opening space, but this does not work well as the pin box is too close to the tailgate then. Plus, I do like being as short as possible.

All in all, I really like this setup. Being a working stiff for the last couple years the gooseneck mount was great for removal of the Anderson hitch and giving me a clean bed to use, but if I was to do it now that I am semi-retired and not needed the truck bed for other stuff as much, I would likely just do the rail mount version.
Thanks Jim, do you know how far in front of the axle the gooseneck ball is?
I will likely go with the rail mount mainly due to the rail ultmate is smaller footprint (24X24 vs 31.5X35.5), giving more space in the bed.
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