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Old 07-24-2017, 10:36 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
I use locking cylinder style lock hitch pins. I bought them from E-trailer. You do have to check your overall receiver thickness to get one long enough. I have never had a coupler unhitch due to a lost pin but did lose an r clip once and caught it missing in my refueling walk around. Last week I had an R clip ruined by road debris. Locks are not keyed alike only because I forgot to ask for that before they shipped. They are stainless steel and made in Michigan, USA. For spares, you can use common pins with clips, cheaper.
Dave
To amend my post above I took this photo
On the top a square wirelock pin 5/16 diameter with usable length of 2 1/4 inches. Will fit Escape coupler lever for a spare if your lock fails, gets lost etc
Below the tape, an R Spring clip. This one holds the pin that supports the chain plate on the Anderson Hitch its 3 1/4 inches long on the long side. I get mine at a farm store not a camping place.
Hope the visual helps
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:01 AM   #22
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Remember a new 21 owner had his brand new Anderson ball mount stolen the first or second day as his locking hitch pin hadn't been used at setup and he forgot to switch the stock pin.

Have used this one from Etrailer for over three years with no issues; I do have to remove the key from my key ring as the area is around it is close quarters.

Bought the matching coupler lock, however it was too short; actually prefer the hoop style ETI supplies- am going to pick up a spare after reading above comments. For bike rack- with a 1UP you don't use a pin; it has an internal mechanism and a special Allen key to tighten up.
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:05 AM   #23
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So, a picture or video isn't always worth a thousand words.
In the paragraph above, you say everything that this video took 5:29 to say ( actually, I only got half way through, with the sound muted ).
Had an 'R' pin snap once. Bought a couple spares, but haven't needed them since that single occurrence.

You did better than me. I went looking for a video that showed it and that was all I found. I skipped through to make sure it did at least show it. If you are not familiar with them I could have been speaking a foreign language. Thus the need for a video.
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:10 AM   #24
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Tweakers

With many experiences of theft of steel, aluminum. Cast iron, copper etc. in my work over the years, I usually lock up anything that can walk away in a campground including the spring bars for the pro tow WDH. Tweakers will steal anything of scrap value.
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Old 07-24-2017, 12:07 PM   #25
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The hitch pin lock is subject to a lot of road dirt, tar, muck, salt, etc. I try very hard to keep the cover in place over the key slot and also keep the mechanism well lubricated with Tri-Flo or a graphite or teflon dry lube. As long as I have maintained mine properly, I've had no problems with it.

Given the choice of the potential downsides of having my hitch stuck on the tow and needing to cut off the lock, vs having the hitch and ball come loose while driving, I know which I would prefer.
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Old 07-24-2017, 12:59 PM   #26
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I have heard of kids in campgrounds opening the black tank valve with the cover still on, then closing it. Great fun when at the dump station. Don't think you can get a lock for that.
I'm wondering if this happened to me. I won't go into details.
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:39 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
...
Bought the matching coupler lock, however it was too short; actually prefer the hoop style ETI supplies- am going to pick up a spare after reading above comments. For bike rack- with a 1UP you don't use a pin; it has an internal mechanism and a special Allen key to tighten up.
Thanks! - Will add to my Chilliwack shopping list.
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:10 PM   #28
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I'm wondering if this happened to me. I won't go into details.
Hi: NW Cat Owner... You must have been crouched down... when the fit hit the shan, like I was? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:17 PM   #29
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If someone maliciously removes the pin, you'll see that when you check before driving away; it would be good to have a spare. If you're not checking and travel among vandals, then you risk an unplugged electrical cable, disconnected breakaway cable, unhooked safety chains, and an unlatched coupler. Lots of people use keyed locks on couplers... but safety chains, breakaway cables, and electrical cables? For that matter, how about a lowered tongue jack? I don't think this stuff actually happens very often.

I have a locking pin, but it is pain to use both because it doesn't stay clean, and because the area is crowded.

If you can find one small enough, or drill the hole in the hitch pin larger, a linch pin is more secure and much easier to use than an R-clip. The smallest I've seen is 3/16" in diameter, so I had to drill out the holes slightly where I've switched to these because I'm getting fed up with the R-clips on my lawn tractor's mower mounts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Why not push the spring clip all the way through, that is the way I always thought it works....
It's not supposed to work that way, although I've done that where an R-clip has not fit well. There's a bump in one side of an R-clip for a reason: that's where it rests around the pin that it is securing.
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:23 PM   #30
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I bought a hitch tightener because the stinger that came with my Escape rattled occasionally. Since it is installed using a socket set, I don't worry so much about someone pulling the pin or stealing the stinger as they would need a wrench or socket to get the stinger off.
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:05 PM   #31
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I bought a hitch tightener because the stinger that came with my Escape rattled occasionally. Since it is installed using a socket set, I don't worry so much about someone pulling the pin or stealing the stinger as they would need a wrench or socket to get the stinger off.
I also use the hitch tightener on mine and like the security of it when towing. When I disconnect the trailer, I take off the hitch and put in the back of the SUV. This way, I can adjust my trailer (up or down) to level without having to move the car first and not worry about someone stealing my hitch.
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:39 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by sumac.rhus View Post
Thanks! - Will add to my Chilliwack shopping list.
I like the Bolt locks. They key to match your ignition key. I have one for the hitch, one for coupler latch, and a cable lock for the bike rack. Unfortunately they can only be matched once.

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces...BL7018448.html
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:54 PM   #33
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Hi: NW Cat Owner... You must have been crouched down... when the fit hit the shan, like I was? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Standing off to the side, fortunately.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:14 PM   #34
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When I bought my hitch I bought a locking hitch pin to secure it. I put it on the truck and have left the hitch in place ever since. It's not clear to me why people remove their trailer hitches. Enlighten me.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:22 PM   #35
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When I bought my hitch I bought a locking hitch pin to secure it. I put it on the truck and have left the hitch in place ever since. It's not clear to me why people remove their trailer hitches. Enlighten me.
I back into parking places all of the time and would hit someone's car or something else with the ball mount. Also, ours is for WDH, much bigger than yours, I assume.

The sonar would also have to be turned off because it would make noise constantly. I never turn off the sonar as I rely on it a great deal and would forget if it were turned off. I consider the sonar to be a great feature and I use it. If I ever had the ball mount in and then took it out, I would have to remember to turn the sonar back on.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:25 PM   #36
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Taking hitch off

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis View Post
When I bought my hitch I bought a locking hitch pin to secure it. I put it on the truck and have left the hitch in place ever since. It's not clear to me why people remove their trailer hitches. Enlighten me.
My hitch stays on quite a bit of the time. That said, and I have done no research on this, I have heard that there are states, cities, whatever that will fine you if the stinger is sticking out. The concern as I understand it Is with damage to other vehicles, Bicycles and their riders, and motorcycles that might run into the back of the hitch vehicle and the damage the hitch vehicle does if it backs into something. I'm sure The Escape Experts will enlighten us especially if I am wrong on this.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:40 PM   #37
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My RAV4 manual says to remove the hitch when not towing. I believe the issue is that there are crush zones on these newer vehicles that would be compromised with the hitch in place. In addition, the damage would be greater from a minor accident as energy is transferred to the hitch receiver mounting points.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:41 PM   #38
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When I bought my hitch I bought a locking hitch pin to secure it. I put it on the truck and have left the hitch in place ever since. It's not clear to me why people remove their trailer hitches. Enlighten me.
I use my truck to tow my travel trailer , firewood trailer and utility trailer so I change the stinger out to match the trailer.
If you lived in an area that uses road salt you would soon discover one reason for removing the stinger . All it takes is about one winter and the stinger is rusted into the hitch and any hitch lock is rusted so badly you cannot unlock it.
I spent 4 hour one Saturday trying to remove the stinger from a friends hitch . We finally gave up and cut the hitch off his truck and installed a whole new hitch.
I pull my stinger out and store it until I need it again to prevent it from rusting in and putting dents in someone's bumper.
I also coat the hitch and stinger with grease.
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Old 07-24-2017, 09:43 PM   #39
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stinger

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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I use my truck to tow my travel trailer , firewood trailer and utility trailer so I change the stinger out to match the trailer.
If you lived in an area that uses road salt you would soon discover one reason for removing the stinger . All it takes is about one winter and the stinger is rusted into the hitch and any hitch lock is rusted so badly you cannot unlock it.
I spent 4 hour one Saturday trying to remove the stinger from a friends hitch . We finally gave up and cut the hitch off his truck and installed a whole new hitch.
I pull my stinger out and store it until I need it again to prevent it from rusting in and putting dents in someone's bumper.
I also coat the hitch and stinger with grease.

Words of experience. Always best to learn from experiences of others. I never leave my stinger in. If I do I always walk into it and get grease all over my leg when I'm unloading the back of the truck.
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Old 07-24-2017, 09:54 PM   #40
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... I never leave my stinger in. If I do I always walk into it and get grease all over my leg when I'm unloading the back of the truck.
I take out the stinger whenever we are going to drive away from the campsite and as soon as we arrive home, but I still always manage to get grease on my pants!
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