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Old 05-21-2014, 09:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by soultrek View Post
My high-tech solution was to apply strips of Gorilla Tape on both sides of the stinger hole. Seems to do the job, but will require periodic reapplication.
Danger Will Robinson! I made the mistake of wrapping a couple of turns of duct tape around the stinger on our hitch once. It sort of rolled and wadded up in there while towing and made it nearly impossible to remove the stinger. I had to resort to a real down-home method of tying the hitch ball to a tree with a very stout rope and pulling it out with more horsepower than I would have imagined. A friend recently had a trailer shop do the same with his hitch to tighten it up, and he can't begin to get it apart now. Maybe Gorilla Tape won't wad up like ordinary duct tape, but I'm sticking with the clamping device!

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Old 05-21-2014, 10:31 AM   #12
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Works very well.
Stainless Steel Locking, Anti-Rattle Threaded Hitch Pin for 2" Trailer Hitches Softride Locks SR25219

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Old 05-21-2014, 10:36 AM   #13
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Yes, I have used that for past 4 years, works very well, but it only works on hollow stingers, the solid ones need a different set up.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:55 AM   #14
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I'd get one of those anti-rattlers if I was using a bike rack.
For my Anderson draw bar I had a machinist drill another hole 2" back of the factory location allowing it to sit deeper in the receiver. That seems to have solved the looseness - or at least made it less noticeable.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:57 AM   #15
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I'm not sure what this hitch slack eliminator does. Is to eliminate wiggle room between hitch and receiver when the trailer is hooked up? or when the trailer is not hooked up? I've got the ETI standard equaliser hitch and it's so dang heavy it doesn't seem to wiggle at any time.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:45 AM   #16
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I bought a similar unit from from Princess Auto before we left on the current trip. It was in the $10 range. It's made the bike rack rock solid. It works by clamping the stinger to the receiver so there's no wiggle.

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Old 05-21-2014, 12:28 PM   #17
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My bike rack has a threaded pin instead of a J pin and when wrenched tight there is no wiggle room.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
...IF the tongue weight is adequate, there shouldn't be vertical rattling because the trailer never lifts the ball... and a WD hitch applies massive torque to the mount/shank to receiver connection so vertical play seems unlikely with a WD.
There is a bit of play in my hitch, but as Brian suggested, with the large moment applied by the WDH, that play totally disappears.
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:25 PM   #19
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Stinger Slack
I have had this for several years and now know the malady I was suffering from. My solution has been to purchase a package of inexpensive hack saw blades, jam them into the gaps and bend them off. So far I have not had to resort to tree tieing to remove the stinger but it can be a bit difficult. With a needle nose pliers I usually can pull several of the partial blades out and then remove the stinger. I always carry the extra blades, then can have more than one use.
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Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:50 PM   #20
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I'm feeling like I've done something wrong for years... and I've even mentioned this on FiberglassRV, but I like the fact the stinger has some movement.

Often when I want to unhitch, that sucker is SUCKED into the coupler. I just STOMP on the draw bar and the whole thing drops an inch or more and I can unhitch. That probably wouldn't happen if everything was tight... works for me and that's my story.

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