Hitch slack eliminator

[cpaharley2008]

Just ordered one of these, seem to be better than the single set up. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
anyone else ever use one to eliminate the slack in the receiver and the stinger?

[Brian B-P]

If the typical device of this type is a step above bailing wire and duct tape to fix the universal but primitive North American hitch system, this is two steps up... with twice as much bailing wire. If you have enough rattle that you see the benefit in putting on all this gear, I say go for it. The hassle, though, explains all those people driving around with ball mounts in when they should be removed. :

I have not noticed issues with rattling, so I don't use any such device. Who knows... perhaps if I tried one I would realize that there is excessive play.

I can see side-to-side play, but it seems to me that the old Draw-Tite / Hidden Hitch J-pin is a much more elegant solution. IF the tongue weight is adequate, there shouldn't be vertical rattling because the trailer never lifts the ball... and a WD hitch applies massive torque to the mount/shank to receiver connection so vertical play seems unlikely with a WD.

[KirkB]

Thanks for the post, Jim. Didn't know this type of item existed. Just this last weekend, I tried the hitch bike rack on our Highlander with dealer installed hitch for the first time, and noticed more play and bounce than on our previous vehicle. I also have an Andersen WD hitch - would tightening side to side affect the alignment on the lower plate under the ball? I am thinking the single version might work best with the Andersen hitch.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by KirkB

Thanks for the post, Jim. Didn't know this type of item existed. Just this last weekend, I tried the hitch bike rack on our Highlander with dealer installed hitch for the first time, and noticed more play and bounce than on our previous vehicle. I also have an Andersen WD hitch - would tightening side to side affect the alignment on the lower plate under the ball? I am thinking the single version might work best with the Andersen hitch.

I'll report back, it should be here tomorrow and I'll post the install.

[fudge_brownie]

I am not following the purpose of this item. Is it to reduce the wiggle of the stinger in the receiver?

[Parker]

KountryKamper (Tom) put me onto this: Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories. I've towed a bunch with it now, and it really does the job, even though it clamps from just the sides.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

I am not following the purpose of this item. Is it to reduce the wiggle of the stinger in the receiver?

Yes, both on your trailer hookup and your rear rack, if used.

[azjack]

If anyone has a welding unit, I just put a few beads on the hitch where it slides in and then grind down to fit and reduce the bounce when no trailer is attached. If I have bounce with the trailer I might not have enough tongue weight or a empty trailer.
Jack

[Texscapees]

Originally Posted by Parker

KountryKamper (Tom) put me onto this: Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories. I've towed a bunch with it now, and it really does the job, even though it clamps from just the sides.

I recently purchased one of these too. Haven't gotten to try it out yet but the first test will be a trip to South Llano River State Park in two weeks. Glad to hear from a fellow escapee confirming that it works well.

[soultrek]

I recently noticed the referenced slack after purchasing a newer TV; maybe more noticeable than before due to a shorter stinger receptacle. My high-tech solution was to apply strips of Gorilla Tape on both sides of the stinger hole. Seems to do the job, but will require periodic reapplication.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by soultrek

My high-tech solution was to apply strips of Gorilla Tape on both sides of the stinger hole. Seems to do the job, but will require periodic reapplication.

Danger Will Robinson! I made the mistake of wrapping a couple of turns of duct tape around the stinger on our hitch once. It sort of rolled and wadded up in there while towing and made it nearly impossible to remove the stinger. I had to resort to a real down-home method of tying the hitch ball to a tree with a very stout rope and pulling it out with more horsepower than I would have imagined. A friend recently had a trailer shop do the same with his hitch to tighten it up, and he can't begin to get it apart now. Maybe Gorilla Tape won't wad up like ordinary duct tape, but I'm sticking with the clamping device!

[Jubal]

Works very well.
Stainless Steel Locking, Anti-Rattle Threaded Hitch Pin for 2" Trailer Hitches Softride Locks SR25219

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, I have used that for past 4 years, works very well, but it only works on hollow stingers, the solid ones need a different set up.

[paulw]

I'd get one of those anti-rattlers if I was using a bike rack.
For my Anderson draw bar I had a machinist drill another hole 2" back of the factory location allowing it to sit deeper in the receiver. That seems to have solved the looseness - or at least made it less noticeable.

[J Mac]

I'm not sure what this hitch slack eliminator does. Is to eliminate wiggle room between hitch and receiver when the trailer is hooked up? or when the trailer is not hooked up? I've got the ETI standard equaliser hitch and it's so dang heavy it doesn't seem to wiggle at any time.

[Ron in BC]

I bought a similar unit from from Princess Auto before we left on the current trip. It was in the $10 range. It's made the bike rack rock solid. It works by clamping the stinger to the receiver so there's no wiggle.

Ron

[J Mac]

My bike rack has a threaded pin instead of a J pin and when wrenched tight there is no wiggle room.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

...IF the tongue weight is adequate, there shouldn't be vertical rattling because the trailer never lifts the ball... and a WD hitch applies massive torque to the mount/shank to receiver connection so vertical play seems unlikely with a WD.

There is a bit of play in my hitch, but as Brian suggested, with the large moment applied by the WDH, that play totally disappears.

[fudge_brownie]

Stinger Slack
I have had this for several years and now know the malady I was suffering from. My solution has been to purchase a package of inexpensive hack saw blades, jam them into the gaps and bend them off. So far I have not had to resort to tree tieing to remove the stinger but it can be a bit difficult. With a needle nose pliers I usually can pull several of the partial blades out and then remove the stinger. I always carry the extra blades, then can have more than one use.

[Donna D.]

I'm feeling like I've done something wrong for years... and I've even mentioned this on FiberglassRV, but I like the fact the stinger has some movement.

Often when I want to unhitch, that sucker is SUCKED into the coupler. I just STOMP on the draw bar and the whole thing drops an inch or more and I can unhitch. That probably wouldn't happen if everything was tight... works for me and that's my story.