Honda Pilot: Where to place the brake controller??? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-18-2014, 11:17 AM   #11
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I have mine under the dash to the right of the steering column. It is very close to my shins, but not quite hitting. I really could see no better place to mount it.
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:20 PM   #12
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Brake Control location in Pilot

I also have mine to the right of the steering column, it was the best place for myself. There's also nothing at the back of it so mounting its cradle/bracket with machine screws and nuts wasn't an issue.
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:31 PM   #13
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The occasions when I have engaged the trailer brakes manually have been very rare. I think more to see if the trailer brakes were working than anything else. After we came back from our trips we always had the oil changed and the brakes checked. i expected to see additional wear on the brakes -- but never saw anything unexpected. As I recall, we replaced the front pads at about 60K miles.

All that said, I can understand the wisdom of having the brake controller in easy reach. I have adjusted the brake controller on occasion, just becuase it got jiggled, or maybe the conditions changed, or maybe I just decided I wanted to have a bit more braking in the trailer.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Susan View Post
Under what circumstances would we have to manually engage the brakes for the trailer? We are getting an Anderson hitch, so we thought that would control swaying and so on.
The Andersen No-Sway WD Hitch should be an effective sway control device, but nothing's perfect. On the other hand, I've never used any WD or sway control device, and never found one to be needed.

One reason to have the controller within reach is to apply the manual lever if required to control sway. I've never had a reason to do that.

For me, the primary reason for the controller to be in reach is so that it can be adjusted.

Leon's position is about the same as mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
You can use it to slow going down grades ( ONLY IF NEEDED SO YOU DON"T SMOKE YOUR VEHICLE BRAKES)...
Given how small and ineffective the trailer's drums are compared to the tug's brakes, I can't see ever doing this. To control speed descending a grade without overheating brakes, the normal solution is engine braking.
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Old 09-18-2014, 02:48 PM   #15
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B_P,

Ever been on the Molly Stark Trail ? I will agree the brakes on the trailer are small but they will slow or stop the vehicle . On some of the steeper down slopes when I have towed heavier loads I alternate to slow a bit better vehicle ans trailer to allow the brakes to cool.
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Susan View Post
Under what circumstances would we have to manually engage the brakes for the trailer? We are getting an Anderson hitch, so we thought that would control swaying and so on. There seems to be a lot more to all of this than we anticipated! Thanks all, Susan
The situation would be that the trailer is suddenly out of control, swaying back and forth on you. I have no idea how good the Anderson hitch might be on that. If you apply the manual lever on the brake controller, it will slow the trailer, getting it straightened out, because the trailer will be going slower than the vehicle.

Sway is unlikely to happen if you start out by going to a truck scale and getting your tongue weight. You might get the weights with and without hitch also, to partly see what the hitch is doing, as far as weight. Also need to try to balance what you put in the trailer side-to-side. I think the Escape comes well-balanced already but you need to pay some attention to what you add where, and especially in back.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:50 PM   #17
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Where do most people get their trailers weighed? Truck weigh station? RV Center? Camping World? I guess this is a stupid newbie question, but hey, I'm a newbie.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:20 PM   #18
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Truck scales, maybe $9 or $10, if second time through, a dollar. Some people have free scales around that they can go to.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
Ever been on the Molly Stark Trail ?
No - but any road that had me using the trailer brakes to relieve the vehicle brakes would make me wonder if I had a suitable tow vehicle. Mountain roads can be really steep even if the mountains are not very tall, and if it is a really low-speed road, the tug might not be geared low enough to effectively brake with the engine for speed control; however, as a state highway (Vermont 9) I would expect normal road speeds and no gearing problem. Maybe I'll get to try it someday...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
I will agree the brakes on the trailer are small but they will slow or stop the vehicle .
Yes, but because they are relatively undersized compared to the tug, if they are doing their share of the braking work then by the time the tug's brakes are overheated, the trailer's will be as well. Maybe they're not doing their share?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
On some of the steeper down slopes when I have towed heavier loads I alternate to slow a bit better vehicle ans trailer to allow the brakes to cool.
This suggests to me that the brakes are being used continuously to absorb the energy of the descent, controlling speed down the grade, rather than just to stop or slow for a corner. That's where engine braking is good - it can continually absorb energy while descending at a constant controlled speed, without depending on the brakes.
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Old 09-18-2014, 10:28 PM   #20
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Every time I leave on a trip, I use the manual activator to test the brakes before I pull out of the driveway...
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