Lesson learned regarding hitching up - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-19-2015, 10:12 PM   #11
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And that's on flat level concrete.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I use blocks under the jack because I don't want to crank forever.
I did this too. Always use at least 6" of blocks.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:51 PM   #13
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I bought one of these. It saves some cranking and I prefer it over wood blocks (no splinters). Have had one instance where it was a bit too tall but otherwise so far so good. When I couldn't use it I had to run the jack nearly all the way down and I was surprised at how unstable it was. I did buy a washer and put it in the cavity where the tongue jack goes to prevent the metal from digging into the plastic.

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Old 10-19-2015, 10:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jen & Angie View Post
I'm interested in purchasing the hitch wheel. I was wondering what model escape owners recommend. I live in california and the shipping cost to purchase directly from escape is something I'd like to avoid.
The hitch wheel was an option we picked when we ordered our 'cute little 17b.'

We've used it a few times when we were not happy with where the trailer was positioned on our paved driveway and we were not good enough backer-uppers to position it without pushing it.

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Old 10-19-2015, 11:13 PM   #15
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The Lesson(s) we've learned about hitching up is that the thing you've forgotten or didn't know about hitching can become VERY important if disaster strikes.

Two lessons. #1. I assumed Liz had put the hitch pin on (if that is what it is called) because she had locked the hitch down onto the ball. I asked her about the pin about 1/2 an hour into the drive. We stopped and put the pin on. Lesson: The driver should check everything about hitching up him or herself. I forgot to check the hitch up.

#2. Something we didn't "know" although we had read the ETI manual which covers this detail. We didn't know that the battery switch (the inside switch which turns off all battery power to the trailer) MUST be up (power available within the trailer) in order for the breakaway cord to trigger the trailer brakes should THE TRAILER BECOME DISCONNECTED WHILE UNDERWAY.

As reasonably intelligent people but new to all things towing we learned that there are many details and lots of material to cover. Make a list and check it two (or three) times before heading out. A tip I read on our Forum is that you should do everything in the same order every time.

Larry
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
I'm not strong enough to push the 19 sideways , the tandem scuff is too much for this old man
I think it's too much for most of us.

A FiberglassRV member recently installed power movers on his trailer, and on the supplier's website I noticed their solution to this issue: put casters under the wheels of one axle...
Installation Videos | Trailer Movers | Trailer Mover | Remote Trailer Movers | Purple Line

Because the tandem Torflex arrangement doesn't equalize load between the axles, if the casters are put under the trailing tires then the tongue should be lowered to keep the load on the leading tires.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by T&R View Post
I bought one of these. It saves some cranking and I prefer it over wood blocks (no splinters).
My current trailer came with neither a foot nor a wheel, and with the end of the jack tube damaged (presumably by dragging). With the damage I didn't even try fitting anything - I just use that same stand.

At home I use a manual dolly to move the trailer by hand, and at campsites I have only moved the trailer with the tug, so I have not needed either a wheel or a foot that can be skidded.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave&Jane View Post
This item at etrailer.com appears identical to the wheel we got from Escape - and it's 1/3 of their price: Shelby Removable Caster with Pin for 2-1/4" Trailer Jacks - 1,200 lbs

  • Application: 2-1/4" round jacks
  • Caster attaches to 2" diameter inner jack tube
  • Reduces overall jack capacity to 1,200 lbs
  • Wheel diameter: 5-1/2"

Don't discard the flat footplate that comes with the jack, since you may need to use it in order to lower hitch enough to level the camper on a sloping site.

-Dave
Thanks for the kind response. Going this route, do I just replace the foot plate with the wheel? Excuse my ignorance, I'm new to trailering. I tend to do okay parking at campsites, where I have difficulty (especially when I'm alone) is parking trailer at the storage yard. I have 2 vehicles on either side of my slot and it's a fairly tight fit. Even with someone's help it takes a few attempts. I know this is partially because I sometimes overthink it. I've gotten lucky a few times and threaded it right on the first or second attempt. Which led me to believe it would get easier with practice but much like my golf swing; sometimes I'm golden and other times not so much. I didn't realize you could just replace plate with wheel and though that seems simple enough (especially since I only need it at the storage yard) I'm wondering what other's think of the below setup. It would be cool if the wheel could be replaced with an all-terrain so that it could function on any surface. I've already have visited a couple campsites where I would have loved the capability of turning trailer sideways to take full advantage of a lake or ocean view

https://images.etrailer.com/static/i...j120w0301.webm

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Old 10-19-2015, 11:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T&R View Post
I bought one of these. It saves some cranking and I prefer it over wood blocks (no splinters). Have had one instance where it was a bit too tall but otherwise so far so good. When I couldn't use it I had to run the jack nearly all the way down and I was surprised at how unstable it was. I did buy a washer and put it in the cavity where the tongue jack goes to prevent the metal from digging into the plastic.

How important is it to place jack on blocks? Currently I just have it on concrete pad with a flatten beer carton under it. do i need to store it with the jack on blocks and if so, please educate me why. thanks!
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:09 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jen & Angie View Post
How important is it to place jack on blocks? Currently I just have it on concrete pad with a flatten beer carton under it.
It's not important, unless you need blocks for some reason...
  • if you are on soft ground with a small foot, a larger block can keep the jack from sinking in (not a concern on concrete)
  • if you are on a slope with the ground lower under the front of the trailer, the jack may not reach down far enough so you may need a block
  • if you don't have a foot or a jack, you may need something to protect the jack leg end and/or the parking surface
If you don't have a situation like this - or some other reason to need a block - (and it sounds like you don't, Jen) then there's no reason to put a block under the jack.
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