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Old 07-08-2013, 08:47 PM   #21
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Yeah, the electrical bench is a bit of a challenge. You don't want anything heavy in there unless it's secured well enough that it can't slide around and do damage. I'm thinking about building a cage that can protect the gear to free up the rest of the space for heavy items.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:36 PM   #22
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Good idea, Doug. You could sell that, too.

It happens that we have a couple of things in there that fit snugly so that nothing can move. We're not thrilled with that but it's the best we could do and use the space. One wants to attempt to balance what is on the other side so it seems necessary to put something.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:15 AM   #23
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I secured a plastic bin to the floor ( no tanks up there) and put things in the bin and put a piece of moulding around the upper level to keep things there, stuff that is not used a lot, toilet tissue, portable cooler,wash bins. can't wait to get my hands on the new 21' storage.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:07 AM   #24
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I am curious, I assume you are talking about the front driver side storage? All I have electrical in there is a steel electrical junction box and the back side of the fuse box, encased in hard plastic. Do you have other items that are fragile, mine certainly are not? Does solar option put something there?
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:45 AM   #25
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Yes, the driver side has the converter and electrical box. That is also where the EMS is installed, on top of the black tank. There was enough space on top of tank for small plastic box and I secured another box behind the converter for storage.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:15 PM   #26
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You must have worked for the government. EMS is an acronym that needs explaining.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:43 PM   #27
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sorry-electrical management system- i.e.- Progressive Industries 30 amp surge and electrical monitor system.
http://www.shoprvparts.com/product/3...ml?WT.mc_id=b1
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:27 PM   #28
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My Sherline TM-1000 showed up a couple of days before we left last week. We stopped in a level parking lot on our way out of town and checked it out.

In the rear of the trailer we had a full fresh water tank and a couple of moderately heavy folding chairs, and maybe another 50lbs of various stuff. In the front I had full propane tanks, a tool kit and 5 gallons of fresh water (we carry separate water for drinking 'cause we've gotten fussy about the water we drink and use to make coffee). A rough guess of 3300lbs for the trailer, but that's a guess -- not measured.

Our hitch is a tad low, so the nose of the trailer is a tad lower than level when towing. This should reduce to hitch weight slightly.

I first measured at the jack, with the jack sitting directly on the scale and adjusted so that the trailer is at the same tilt as when towing. It came out at 440 lbs.

When I saw this, I decided I didn't need to measure under the coupler itself. I'm satisfied that with this loading my tongue weight is safe.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:02 PM   #29
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Wow, maybe mine is defective, I have never gone over 350# with 1/3 fresh. I have the solar, a/c,front storage and full propane, one #29 battery. I have maybe 75# under the bed of stuff.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:23 PM   #30
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Or maybe mine is defective. Hard to tell without calibrating it. I did stand on mine, and it read in the right ball park.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:26 PM   #31
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I doubt the jack vs hitch location would make that much difference?
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:52 PM   #32
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Somewhere in the instruction manual is the factor you use to adjust the weight you get if you measure using the jack, since there is a difference between using the jack and using the ball hitch.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:10 PM   #33
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It's hard to imagine a way in which a Sherline scale could function at all and not be as accurate as the pressure gauge. A gauge could be bad, but that seems unlikely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Somewhere in the instruction manual is the factor you use to adjust the weight you get if you measure using the jack, since there is a difference between using the jack and using the ball hitch.
Cool I've never heard of that detail being covered in a trailer manual before.

The correction factor is the ratio between the distance from jack to axle, and the distance from coupler to axle. In a tandem, the axle location is the midpoint of the two axle locations. Does anyone have these two lengths? If they are, for instance 12 feet and 13 feet, you calculate the tongue (at coupler) weight as the measurement at the jack times 12 divided by 13 (a correction factor of 12/13, or 0.92; the measurement at the jack is 8% too high). That's just an example using wild guess distances.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:25 PM   #34
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Instructions for determining the factor are on page 12.
You have to establish the weight at the ball and at the jack and calculate the factor that you can use in the future.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:30 PM   #35
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The manual has a lot of information about safe towing in it, well beyond simple instruction on the scale itself.

I double-checked my log, and my memory was good -- 440 lbs at the jack. Our next trip is 2 weeks away. I'll try to measure again on that trip, in case I messed something up this last time. I have to pull the trailer off my property to measure it (no level ground here) so it's a bit of an effort.

I think with the tandem, the effective axle position will be fairly strongly affected by the tilt of the trailer. Tilt the nose down and you transfer more weight to the front axle, moving the effective axle location forward. Tilt the nose up and you shift the effective axle location backwards. So, make sure you measure with the trailer at the same tilt you drive.
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:17 PM   #36
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Hi: dbailey... Reace advises tandem axle owners to tow level... Nose down is ok for a single axle trailer. Alf
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:22 PM   #37
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I think it's as close to level as I can get it. The hitch bars come in 2" increments and this one makes it slightly low while the next step up makes it slightly high.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:39 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
I think with the tandem, the effective axle position will be fairly strongly affected by the tilt of the trailer. Tilt the nose down and you transfer more weight to the front axle, moving the effective axle location forward. Tilt the nose up and you shift the effective axle location backwards. So, make sure you measure with the trailer at the same tilt you drive.
Yes, definitely.

The leverage ratio technique only works with the right effective axle position. This is trivial for a single axle, but there is this problem for a tandem.

Quote:
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... Reace advises tandem axle owners to tow level... Nose down is ok for a single axle trailer.
I agree. Of course, hitting that perfectly is not possible...

... and so this makes perfect sense:
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Instructions for determining the factor are on page 12.
You have to establish the weight at the ball and at the jack and calculate the factor that you can use in the future.
Of course, the factor changes every time you change the tilt.

I don't see the manuals available for download from the Escape Trailer website. There's a 2012 manual in this forum's download centre, but it doesn't have this section on page 12 and I couldn't find it elsewhere. Unfortunately, this copy of the manual is an image (presumably a scan from paper), rather than a searchable document, so I'm not sure if I just missed it.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:00 PM   #39
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The instruction manual I referred to is the Sherline manual. I think it's available on-line at their site, along with trailer towing advice.

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Old 07-21-2013, 12:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
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The instruction manual I referred to is the Sherline manual. I think it's available on-line at their site, along with trailer towing advice.
Ah, makes sense. That would be Sherline's Towing Guide. It nicely shows how to support the scale and put the trailer on it.

The factor for a specific trailer could be included in a trailer manual, but I have never seen that. The Escape manual includes towing advice, too.
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