Safety chains

[cpaharley2008]

On sale at Etrailer, the coiled type....RoadMaster 68" Single Hook, Coiled Safety Cables - 6,000 lbs Roadmaster Safety Chains and Cables RM-643

[fudge_brownie]

Jim,
How come you are always trying to get me to spend my retirement money?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Jim,
How come you are always trying to get me to spend my retirement money?

You can not take it with you, when I leave I plan on having my last check bounce....

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

You can not take it with you, when I leave I plan on having my last check bounce....

There are no pockets on a casket.
I've never seen a hearse stop at a bank and make a withdrawal.
And finally "if I can't take it with me, I ain't going."
Can I get an Amen? Amen!
Dave

[Kountrykamper]

They seem too long of a travel trailer.

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

On sale at Etrailer, the coiled type....RoadMaster 68" Single Hook, Coiled Safety Cables - 6,000 lbs Roadmaster Safety Chains and Cables RM-643

Just my opinion but I installed a set of these on my Boler and hated them, changed back to chains.
Two main reasons, first I found battling with the coiled cable a fight. Secondly and more important if the trailer becomes detached these will not cradle the tongue, the trailer will separate and the tongue will drag.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Ian G

Just my opinion but I installed a set of these on my Boler and hated them, changed back to chains.
Two main reasons, first I found battling with the coiled cable a fight. Secondly and more important if the trailer becomes detached these will not cradle the tongue, the trailer will separate and the tongue will drag.

We dropped a mower and trailer off the ball while going down the Interstate in Omaha once. The chains were close to dragging and too long. The tongue did not cradle and hit a crack in the highway and then hopped up and punched a hole in the tailgate and destroyed the bumper. Then there was the laundry cleaning bill for the guys in the pickup too. Nobody hurt, mower ok, got it hooked back up and limped home.
Jeez that was loud. Coupler was adjusted too loose.
Dave

[Brian B-P]

As already noted, these are too long for a normal trailer. As shown in the eTrailer illustrations, they are for a towbar system, in which the chain or cable (cables are normally used in this case) reach from the hitch, all the way along the tow bars from the motorhome to the towed vehicle, and normally then further along the towed vehicle to an anchor point.

For those who like cables, here are a couple more suitable (and much less expensive) sets from the same retailer:

• Curt Single Hook, Coiled Safety Cables with S-Hooks - 42" Long - 7,500 lbs - Qty 2
• 40" Vinyl Coated Safety Cables with Clevis Hook (Qty. 2) by Dutton-Lainson, 6,500 lbs.

[cpaharley2008]

Of course you need the correct length, I was merely pointing out the coiled vs chain option. I'm curious why Ian did not like them? I have installed them on several units and they keep the area neater as well as the connection.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

You can not take it with you, when I leave I plan on having my last check bounce....

Almost sounds like the prevalent attitude in Congress.

Sorry, slightly political!

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

You can not take it with you, when I leave I plan on having my last check bounce....

I'm sure your children will always remember that.

[Brian B-P]

The coiled nature is billed as an advantage, but if they are still significantly coiled when hooked up they will be too long if the trailer decouples. I would only be interested in cables without the coil; for an Escape, even the 40-inch size is probably far too long in uncoiled length.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The coiled nature is billed as an advantage, but if they are still significantly coiled when hooked up they will be too long if the trailer decouples. I would only be interested in cables without the coil; for an Escape, even the 40-inch size is probably far too long in uncoiled length.

Yes, I measured mine just now, about 28" for the stock link chain plus hook length.

[craiginpetaluma]

When my neighbor bought a used trailer he took it down to the local Rv repair shop to straighten a few thing out. One thing they did was replace the safety chains because they were very rusty and under sized according to the dealer. His trailer weighted in around 4500 lbs The new chains they claimed could handle a 6000 LB trailer.

Well , a few months later as he went over railroad tracks, the trailer uncoupled and Snapped both chains. There he was, 2 one foot chains hanging from the coupler, and no trailer behind him. The RV dealer took no responsibility, and I don't know the actual chain and hook size.

[Iowa Dave]

There can be considerable variation in chain ratings even in same size chain. In addition the whole system has to be in concert with adequate ratings in bar stock securing the Chain to the trailer, welds, S hooks, attachment hooks and attachment point. Regular inspection of the whole setup is always a good idea with replacement
of worn or rusted components always a requirement not just a good idea. Since destructive testing is out, vigilance and Understanding are always in.
Dave

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

There can be considerable variation in chain ratings even in same size chain. In addition the whole system has to be in concert with adequate ratings in bar stock securing the Chain to the trailer, welds, S hooks, attachment hooks and attachment point. Regular inspection of the whole setup is always a good idea with replacement
of worn or rusted components always a requirement not just a good idea. Since destructive testing is out, vigilance and Understanding are always in.
Dave

Absolutely right Dave. For safety chains I would recommend grade 70 or above. Another curve ball is that many chains are marked as grade 70 but they actually aren't - usually cheap imports with poor quality control.

[C&G in FL]

Years ago I had a bolt-on device which was mounted under the coupler and once the coupler was attached to the ball, a heavy steel arm pivoted down and forward and pinned in place so that there was approximately 1/4 inch of clearance between it and the shank of the ball, If the coupler came loose and bounced, it could not come off the ball because the pivoting steel arm wouldn't allow the couple to move upward. It was a great piece of safety equipment and I think it was called "Saf-T-Hitch." That was in the late 80s or early 90s. I don't think it is being marketed anymore and that is a shame; it worked well.


Edit: Just found a product (Google Durasafe Coupler Protect) that essentially does the same thing.

[Iowa Dave]

The best chain we ever bought was square link security chain from Pewag. A grinder can cut it but bolt cutters bounce like bullets off of Superman. We chained up off season trailers, snow plows, implements, etc. it's sold all over the world by specialty rigging outfits. I'd bring a piece to a rally and challenge all comers with bolt cutters but they'd all be mad when they bruised the jaws on their Kliens and Porter Cables.
Dave

[Cypherian]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

The best chain we ever bought was square link security chain from Pewag. A grinder can cut it but bolt cutters bounce like bullets off of Superman. We chained up off season trailers, snow plows, implements, etc. it's sold all over the world by specialty rigging outfits. I'd bring a piece to a rally and challenge all comers with bolt cutters but they'd all be mad when they bruised the jaws on their Kliens and Porter Cables.
Dave

Are you going to provide the Tylenol / Motrin after they try :} Pewag is considered to be the best available. Use it for anything that needs chain here and the house in Maine log chain etc .

Cypher