Toting A Kayak

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by padlin

From what I saw on my hitch install instructions, the fifth wheel hitch is a fixed distance from the rear of the bed irregardless of the bed length. If you had the 6'6" bed you'd have 3' 6" clearance between the trailer and the cab etc.

That makes sense, because most modern trucks are the same from axle to rear bumper regardless of the wheelbase - all the change in length between variations of cab and box length are within the wheelbase. The frame mounting holes used for fifth-wheel hitch brackets are probably in the same place relative to the axle (and rear end of frame) regardless of cab-to-axle spacing. The distance from pin to truck bumper corner is limited by the reach of the trailer - keeping it consistent is good for predictability of fifth-wheel trailer fit.

That specific dimension doesn't quite make sense to me - the normal location would likely be more than 3 feet from the back of the box, because it is normally slightly ahead of the axle, but maybe it's really only 3 feet.

[hughharden]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I use canoe racks too, they certainly stabilize the load, and always tie the front of the boat down. You never know when a strap may break or come loose, as rack come loose, or any other problem happen.

Ask any canoe repair shop what the most common repair is, and it is always repairing boats that come loose when mounted on a vehicle. I have never had this happen, but have seen it and heard of it many times.

Agreed you always have to tie the bow of the kayak or canoe down to the car or truck if you want it to keep pointing into the wind at freeway speeds. I use the rollers at the back of the rack to get them on the roof and it is pretty easy. I've stopped using the straps on the back of the kayaks with no ill effects.

[DonM]

We carry 2 14 ft all the time. Last trip was Vancouver to San Fran return. Normally we have front tie downs. I have had them shift in strong cross winds along the Columbia River Valley.