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Old 06-26-2019, 02:28 PM   #21
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I have had occasions when I used a length of pipe fitted over the breaker bar, for the extra leverage needed. Not elegant but it got the job done.
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:32 PM   #22
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Here's some photos I just took (after checking ball tightness on my ball mount), to illustrate some of John's points.


1 - Reese ball mount has ridges to keep the ball from turning when tightening, while the Curt has a ball with flats so a large pipe or monkey wrench has purchase. (P.S. the plastic baggy on the right is always on the ball when not in use, to preclude "greasy shin syndrome")
2 - The Reese ball mount is about 1/32" narrower that the Curt, so there tends to be some movement in the receiver. Shims are frequently inserted to remove the play.
3 - my poor 3/4" breaker bar in position, with the ball mount at 90°, to allow gravity to help me to tighten the nut.
4 - A pipe snipe added to the 3/4" breaker bar. Curt recommends 250 ft.lbs. torque for the 1" threaded ball shank. If I stand on the breaker bar, about 1 foot out from the ball centerline, my 170 lbs. exerts a torque of (170 lb. x 1 ft) = 170 ft.lbs. --- not enough.
But, if I use the pipe snipe, and stand on the pipe at about 18 inches (1½ feet) out from the ball centerline, my 170 lbs. x 1½ feet = about 255 ft.lbs. of torque. Again, gravity is my friend, and I don't mess up my poor back.


Edit: P.S.: why to I have two ball mounts? The Reese is a 2" drop/3/4" rise mount, while the Curt is a 4" drop/2" rise mount. This gives me four different ball heights, depending on the trailer and the load. I took both when we picked up our Escape 17, but use the 4" drop Curt that we originally calculated, based on the Honda Pilot data and the info from ETI. The Reese has only been used occasionally for another trailer. (If you need a 2" drop ball mount, and are passing through Ventura County, CA, contact me!!)
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ball mounts-1.jpg   reese ball mount gap.jpg   torque ball-1.jpg   torque ball-2 with pipe snipe.jpg  
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chama View Post
Did you not have a lockwasher on the shank of the ball? There is not one in the photo you posted. That is a vital part of the installation of the ball.
A split lock washer is often used with tow balls, but those things don't work very well, and are rarely used for any other important fastener. The critical fasteners which hold the tow vehicle together (suspension, brakes, steering, etc) generally don't have lock washers.
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
I'm really tempted to weld a pair of ridges onto the top of the hitch bar, and take a dremel grinder and grind flats on these ridges so the ball sits between them and can't turn. that would make torqueing it *so* much easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farther View Post
Reese might have already done that for you with their REESE Towpower series.
Yes, that's the Interlock system which I mentioned... although Reese uses a full hex (not just two flats) as can be seen in the ball mount photo in dfandrew's post.
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:52 PM   #25
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Because I need a ball mounted straight out without a dip or rise (was hard to find at the time) I used one of theses two ball welded units. Rated 500 lb tongue weight, 5000 trailer weight.

If the ball is going to come loose...it is going to come loose in a big way.

I now see they have heavy duty unit that you can mount a ball to.
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9094F27C-6287-4584-83C0-AC7EF00ECF7A.jpg   91E91AE0-5453-4654-96C7-77398792D365.jpg  
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:02 PM   #26
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I must have at least 6 different ball mounts, some adjustable, some welded, all varying sizes and drops. It is not uncommon to have a collection of your own.
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:28 PM   #27
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I am a fan of a little Locktite 262 on my hitch threads.

Boeshield T9 on the ball for some dry lube. Works good.
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:02 AM   #28
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indeed, the reese towbar I bought in Brockville, AZ to get home felt way too loose in my 2" reciever. I also need a towbar thats 11-12" long, so I have another Curt, along with a Curt ball.
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:55 AM   #29
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Don, I would love to see some photos of you balanced on that bar.

In other hitch/ball news, I have the one John pictured. If my tv is not perfectly aligned straight ahead of the ball it is often very difficult to get the gate to come up or down. Sometimes using the jack (if I am unhitching) and getting to a certain point, it will come loose. Once after considerable jockeying I did consider unlocking the stinger and driving out from it, but it finally came loose. Any hints on what could be the problem?

I found a large diameter pool noodle and cut a piece for the exposed greasy ball. It doesn't go all the way around but it is bright enough to keep me from bonking it and soft enough to cushion the blow if I do. I have left it on for days as I drive around and it stays put.
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:00 PM   #30
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only time mine has been hard to couple or uncouple, moving the TV just a tiny bit forward made it easy.
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