towing with a 07 Sequoia - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-11-2016, 02:21 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
Went to Toyota the 07 does not have tow pachage
Sorry to hear that... I was hoping for the easy way out.

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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
went to hitch place that put on my class4 and 7 pin and they said you have only 5 wires connected
Since it only takes 4 wires to run the lights, I was puzzled at first... but the fifth wire would be for the reverse lights for your Snoozy's disk surge brake lockout. That means
  • no battery charge line
  • no brake controller wiring (to controller, or from controller to trailer)
  • ground connection adequate for lights but possibly not sufficient for charging and brake current.

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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
they said a prodigy RF preportional trailer mounted braking system. $400 plus. Running 1 wire from battery under car to 7 pin they said that should do it The trailer would not be able to charge batteries with this system. Im having solar put on so that shouldn't be a problem.
That one wire would be the trailer battery charge line, which is needed by the Prodigy RF controller (see previous post)... but then why would they say that the trailer battery would not charge? The Prodigy RF intercept the cable to the trailer and uses the charge line, but I didn't think it kept power from going to the trailer except perhaps while the brakes are being applied - I haven't re-read the Prodigy RF manual to check.

Although fully wiring up a brake controller in the tug is much more work than just running a charge line, the total cost of a normal Prodigy and wiring is probably not much different from the cost of a Prodigy RF (and I suggest that you would do the charge line either way).

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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
Anyone out there with same problem
Tow vehicles without any wiring from the factory for the brake controller or trailer battery charging are very common, although most recent pickup trucks, SUVs sharing a platform with a pickup truck (like the Sequoia), and SUVs with high tow ratings (over 3500 pounds) do have this wiring. Adding brake controller and charge wiring can be annoying to do (I hate poking into interior panels and contorting myself to get under the dash), but it is commonly done as a do-it-yourself job (I wired my Sienna) and as a hitch shop service.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:48 AM   #22
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07 Sequoia

The crazy thing is there is a fuse and relay box just for trailering on the Sequoia So I thought for sure that it was the real deal with wiring but was told no energy was there maybe change fuses ?
So If I run 2 wires from battery with fuses (30) back to 7 way then open up 7way and insert into 7way or just buy a new 7way with 7 wires coming out ??
Would these wires be 12 gauge ?
Then just hook up reg prodigy p2 or p3 to it ?

So even if I get the RF prodigy I still have to run a charge wire anyway right ?

Thanks guys Jim
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
...Anyone out there with same problem
I have used the Tekonsha Prodigy RF controller with my Escape 19' and Toyota FJ Cruiser combination since April 2013 with no problems whatsoever. Did require installation of a charge wire from the FJ battery to the 7-pin. My FJ was not pre-wired for a plug and play installation of a brake controller, and I got a pretty good deal online on the Prodigy RF, so this system has worked out to be slightly cheaper than having a conventional controller installed. I would not hesitate to use this controller again on another vehicle.
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Old 08-11-2016, 10:06 AM   #24
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We had the RF with a Murano and 17B combo because the Nissan wiring was too risky to splice into. Hard to believe a Sequoia would be similar, but at would at least get a second opinion. The RF worked great, however having to plug in to a 12V receptacle rather than it being mounted isn't my preference and the P3 we've been using for two years with Yukon/21 is compact and has more features for diagnostics. You don't need a hitch shop to do this; might get a quote from a good independent mechanic.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:02 PM   #25
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Sequoia

So let me get this straight I buy the prodigy RF 90250 and then run a wire (10ga)
to the 7 pin in the back of vehicle and attach it to the nuber 2 Elec brake or number 4 battery charge that is where i'm confused ?

My 7 pin is as follows
1-bottom left is common ground
2-bottom right electric brake not there ?
3-top left tail and license
4-top right battery charge not there ?
5-middle left left stop and brake
6-middle right right stop and brake
7-center aux for trailer brakes on a surge brake 5pin adapter this works to close off solenoid on boat trailer disc brakes
Thanks for all the reply's I'm hoping to send this prodigy out to ETI and get the install done out there to the trailer and then pick up trailer in Goshen, Indiana

Anyway I wish ETI would just install disc surge brakes so so so much easier and they stop a lot better then elec drum brakes One of the trailer mags did a comparison and what a difference it makes Jim
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:35 PM   #26
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Sequoia

From re-reading the posts I see I run a number 10ga wire from battery to the number 4 slot in 7 wire pin is that correct ? I hope so would running the wire under the car be OK if wire was heavy duty wire Thanks again for all the responses Jim
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:46 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
The Prodigy RF is basically a regular Prodigy (the most common full-featured proportional brake controller), but located on the trailer instead of in the tug. Like any proportional controller, it needs:
  • to know when you are pushing the brake pedal
    • a normally installed controller is connected the brake light switch at the brake pedal
    • the Prodigy RF just connects to the brake/turn signals to the trailer instead
  • to measure how hard you're braking, which it does with an accelerometer
    • this doesn't need any connection to the vehicle
  • to get power
    • a normal controller is wired to the tug's battery
    • a Prodigy RF get power from the battery charge line of the tow vehicle's towing socket
  • to send current to the trailer brakes
    • a normal controller is wired to the brake pin of the 7-pin connector
    • the Prodigy RF is plugged into the tow vehicle's socket and the trailer's cord is plugged into it, so the controller can send current to the trailer brakes on the same wire as the trailer would normally get it
  • a display and control buttons for adjustments
    • these are directly on a normal controller
    • with a Prodigy RF they are on a unit which plugs into the lighter socket for power and communicates with the controller by radio - thus the "RF" name - which doesn't need to be held in a constant orientation and so doesn't need permanent mounting

This certainly works, and doesn't require any permanent installation in the tow vehicle (just plug the remote control unit into the lighter socket). A good reason to pick this is a desire to use different tow vehicles, especially rented or borrowed vehicles which you can't wire for a controller.

No controller needs adjustment in normal operation, except when the trailer is changed (to a different trailer, or the load on the the trailer is significantly changed). So a normal proportional controller and a Prodigy RF and similarly "set and forget".

Many people are concerned by the radio connection aspect of this system, not trusting it to control the trailer brakes. The radio connection isn't involved at all in normal braking; it is required only to change settings, or to manually apply the trailer brakes.

A significant point is that the tow vehicle still needs a 7-pin towing receptacle with power wired to the trailer battery charge pin. I suspect that there are few vehicles which are wired with a 7-pin and charge power that don't also have brake controller wiring, so I think that almost entirely kills the appeal of the Prodigy RF.

I wouldn't use a Prodigy RF in this case, where the same tug and trailer are always used together and a normal wired-in installation is not difficult to do.
We have the RF installed and it has worked well for us. We also have multiple Tugs ( a volvo XC90 and a Toyota Sequoia) having the RF mounted on the trailer means we never have to buy controllers for each tug.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:56 PM   #28
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Sequoia

Thanks that explains it .So just run a 10ga wire from battery with a 20amp fuse and attach to the number 4 battery charge 7pin connection .and go buy the prodigy RF from who Amazon or E-bay ? Do you get warranty if buying from these web based stores ? Jim

BTW How does your 21 do with the Sequoia pulling the trailer what kind of mpg can you get ?
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:48 PM   #29
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We have the RF installed and it has worked well for us. We also have multiple Tugs ( a volvo XC90 and a Toyota Sequoia) having the RF mounted on the trailer means we never have to buy controllers for each tug.
There is no need to buy controllers for each tug even with a controller wired to the tug. With a conventionally wired controller, you just unplug the controller and move it to whatever vehicle is towing a trailer... just as you move the remote control unit of a Prodigy RF. The wiring needs to be done for each tow vehicle, but the controller can go where ever it is needed. Many people remove the controller from the vehicle (or at least from the dash - I stash mine in a storage bin in the back) when not towing.

The only controllers which can't move readily from vehicle to vehicle are those which are built into the dash and integrated with the tow vehicle's systems, either installed at the factory or retrofitted. That's not an available option for a 2007 Sequoia (or for the majority of vehicles which can tow).

The Prodigy RF is certainly a valid option for the multi-tug family, but it's not necessary.
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:52 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
... I hope so would running the wire under the car be OK if wire was heavy duty wire...
I hate fighting with interior panels, and didn't want to run wire though a hole in the body in the rear, so all of the wires which I installed to my 7-pin connector (charge, brake output, ground) run under the vehicle from the engine compartment. No problems in the decade so far and I didn't even cover them with anything... but I did route them carefully.
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