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Old 04-30-2015, 08:25 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Hadn't heard about any request to remove; was that previously mentioned here? Link still works for me.
It was only indirectly mentioned here. Some guy keeps files on a website called slaga.net; the owner of this particular material asked him to remove it; I no longer see that whole folder... it may just be cached by your browser, so it might not really be posted any more.

Just a heads-up for others: they may not be able to see, and so may need to pay RV Consumer Group for it if they want it.
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:35 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I'd be happy if they said, "we just put that there to cover our #ss".
Anyway, can't mitigate an issue if you don't know what the issue is.
But don't you see- that is the issue; they don't want any issues, especially where competitiveness meets the safety nexus.

Kind of like the Cell carrier telling their dealers they cannot sell nor even mention Wilson amplifiers. It may infer that their network needs help.
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:51 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P;
I no longer see that whole folder... it may just be cached by your browser, so it might not really be posted any more.

Just a heads-up for others: they may not be able to see, and so may need to pay RV Consumer Group for it if they want it.
You're right; I don't see it on a different browser. This publication costs $13.95. Its 79 pages and has great information- a must for newbies
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:32 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
You'll probably never hear anything from them except corporate speak. Since the 2008 Highlander doesn't have that warning in the manual perhaps it has to do with the wheelbase of the RAV4(104.7").

If one reads How to Tow Safely I posted previously there is mention of how using a WDH with spring bars set too tight can be more dangerous than not having them at all.

http://www.slaga.net/RV/How%20to%20Tow-version%202.pdf
If one reads How to Tow Safely I posted previously there is mention of how using a WDH with spring bars set too tight can be more dangerous than not having them at all.

Hi Rossue: I'm not able to open the link, but what is the dange of setting the spring bars too tight- and what is too tight?

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Old 08-19-2016, 11:36 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Leisure Lee View Post
If one reads How to Tow Safely I posted previously there is mention of how using a WDH with spring bars set too tight can be more dangerous than not having them at all.

Hi Rossue: I'm not able to open the link, but what is the dange of setting the spring bars too tight- and what is too tight?

Leisure Lee
Hi Lee- How To Tow Safely by JD Gallant (Consumer RV Group) is a very complete manual of 79 pages. When I was searching towing safety I found the publication online for free. It was subsequently taken down, however it is very much worth $10.95: How to Tow Safely

Lot of good reading in this guide- especially if you are safety-minded.

What Mr. Gallant is essentially saying is that overtensioned spring bars may remove enough pressure from the rear axle to cause the rear wheels of the towing vehicle to lose traction with a resulting loss of steering control.

When I set up my new Pro Series RB2-with the round bars like Escape used to sell but now sells the trunnion or straight bar unit- the instructions have you measure the chains by having the hook on the spring brackets be parallel to the ground. You then take the chain link that goes up that high and that is the one to use.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:14 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Leisure Lee View Post
... what is the dange of setting the spring bars too tight- and what is too tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
What Mr. Gallant is essentially saying is that overtensioned spring bars may remove enough pressure from the rear axle to cause the rear wheels of the towing vehicle to lose traction with a resulting loss of steering control.
Yes, or at least over-application of the WD system can reduce the rear tire traction to have too little traction in proportion to the mass of the rear of the vehicle, causing a lack of control.

Correct adjustment of any WD system requires
  1. measuring the load on the front axle (or the height of the tow vehicle at the front axle as indication of load) without the trailer,
  2. then measuring again with the trailer hitched and WD not applied,
  3. then adjusting the WD springs so that the load on the front axle is restored to a value closer to the unhitched condition, but no greater (that is, a height lower than without WD, but no lower than without the trailer).
For an example, I noticed while reading the manual for a Ford Flex during discussion of that vehicle and WD, that Ford says to restore the front axle load to midway between the levels for the trailer unhitched, and the trailer hitched but WD not applied.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:33 PM   #47
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First off, I feel that after 35,000'miles of towing with our Highlander I'm set up just right. I owe this to AZJack doing the initial setup. As far as spring tension, when I hook up on dead level hard surface, I can bring the hitch ears over center and put the pin in that holds the chain without the cheater pipe. I'd estimate this takes about a hundred pounds of up force from my hand and arm. The second side goes up easier. Not that I have an aversion to spending money on instruction books but there is also an excellent guide to towing in the online Sherline Scale website. It does not cover all the points but would certainly be something a person new to towing should read. My advice is to set your bars, take a test drive, , if you don't like how the trailer acts,'change one thing at a time, keep track of you heights and settings, on dead level paving. Set your tanks up the way you plan to run too. It makes a difference.
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:49 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
For an example, I noticed while reading the manual for a Ford Flex during discussion of that vehicle and WD, that Ford says to restore the front axle load to midway between the levels for the trailer unhitched, and the trailer hitched but WD not applied.
I have been doing WDH set up and the attached chart is the values I have come up with. My intention was to have both car and trailer level. To do this the bars are parallel with the tongue and 3 links are loose. To follow Fords recommendation the care would squat. Maybe I will resort to two links loose.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf img027.pdf (23.1 KB, 23 views)
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Old 08-20-2016, 09:29 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by BRietkerk View Post
I have been doing WDH set up and the attached chart is the values I have come up with. My intention was to have both car and trailer level. To do this the bars are parallel with the tongue and 3 links are loose. To follow Fords recommendation the care would squat. Maybe I will resort to two links loose.
If the car is level before hitching up, it should not be level (assuming normal springs, not a self-leveling system such as air suspension) with a trailer, because you have added substantial load to the back. The vehicle designer knows this, and the attitude when unloaded reflects and expectation that when load is carried in the back it will squat down to some extent.

Even if you follow the recommendation of some WD system manufacturers to return the front ride height all the way to the non-towing level (instead of Ford's direction), the front axle will be carrying the same load as when not towing, and the rear axle will be carrying more, so the back will still be somewhat lower and the vehicle will squat a bit. It's not a problem if it's not excessive.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:12 PM   #50
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Yes, or at least over-application of the WD system can reduce the rear tire traction to have too little traction in proportion to the mass of the rear of the vehicle, causing a lack of control.
When we first had our Flex set up with a WDH in 2012 we noticed that when braking somewhat hard we felt a pulsing sensation. At first I suspected a trailer brake drum out of round. It checked out OK. Then I noticed brake dust on the rear TV wheels but not those on the front as one would expect.
Turns out the ABS was pulsing the rear brakes. Ford has a reason for recommending a proper weight distribution between front and back on the TV. Increased weight on the TV rear wheels and increased brake controller setting stopped the problem.
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