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Old 01-22-2019, 04:39 PM   #1
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WDH vs Anti-Sway

We have a Escape 21 on order, and our TV is a Kia Sorento (tow capacity is 5000lb). I've called two places to get quotes on brake controller and hitches. Trademasters quoted me 1500 for the Andersen Hitch+Brake, and Clearbrook Hitch quoted 880 for a Curt WDH hitch+Brake. The second place seemed to think the Anti-sway does virtually nothing if the WDH is tight enough and felt it was overkill. I'm a total newb when it comes to towing, so I figured I would ask the experts :-)

What would you get, and does the anti-sway make that much of a difference? Of note, I read a ton of bad reviews on the Andersen so I likely wouldn't go that route if I went with an anti-sway.

Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:10 PM   #2
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I think you're talking weight distribution hitch receiver ( ie. the part that attaches to the vehicle ). The WDH itself is separate.
It's been ten years, but I had a WDH receiver and brake controller installed on my RAV4 by an aftermarket installer ( Burnaby Hitch I think ). It's Hidden Hitch and cost $650 installed with brake controller and wiring. I had bought a Prodigy P2 brake controller from eTrailer for about $150 and got the Pro Series WDH itself from ETI for $350. ETI installed the WDH when I picked up the trailer.
So, it sounds like $880 for a hitch receiver and brake controller install is reasonable. You would add WDH from ETI. I don't have sway control, but I have a 17B, not a 21. My tow capacity is 3,500 / 350.
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:33 PM   #3
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Apologies, I'm still not up on the lingo. We had the 2" hitch installed by kia a few years ago for our MTBs, at the time I didn't anticipate towing so I didn't get them to do the wiring. I assume from there I need some sort of WDH and/or anti-sway. Hopefully I wasn't confusing the hell out the stores and they were quoting me for the wrong gear

Is the receiver the bar with the hitch ball that goes into the hitch?
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:40 PM   #4
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What you need to check is that the hitch receiver that KIA installed is "for weight distribution hitch". Toyota, for instance installs a 2" Class II, which isn't suitable for WDH. That's why I had an aftermarket install. You need Class III for WDH.
As for terms, the part bolted to the vehicle is the hitch receiver. The WDH is the hitch ( with the ball ).
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:42 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by travdes View Post
Apologies, I'm still not up on the lingo. We had the 2" hitch installed by kia a few years ago for our MTBs, at the time I didn't anticipate towing so I didn't get them to do the wiring. I assume from there I need some sort of WDH and/or anti-sway. Hopefully I wasn't confusing the hell out the stores and they were quoting me for the wrong gear

Is the receiver the bar with the hitch ball that goes into the hitch?
The receiver is the square hole on the back of the vehicle, into which whatever you are using for towing is attached to. It could for instance be a bike rack say. Or your towing hitch which slides into the receiver. See pictures attached. We had ETI install the Pro-Trunnion WDH for $350 when we picked up our trailer.
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:56 PM   #6
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Thanks for the thorough responses, now I won't go and confuse more sales people.

The hitch Kia put on has no visible branding, so I'll assume its crap and I'll likely need to replace it. I guess this could get expensive
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:01 PM   #7
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Ten years ago, I paid about $1,200 for everything needed to tow my 17B.
The vehicle came with a tow prep package - larger radiator, larger alternator, transmission fluid cooler. You might want to ask KIA what your vehicle is equipped with.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:03 PM   #8
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Thanks for the thorough responses, now I won't go and confuse more sales people.

The hitch Kia put on has no visible branding, so I'll assume its crap and I'll likely need to replace it. I guess this could get expensive
Happy to be of help. Maybe what you should do is go to a decent hitch shop and get them to check out your hitch. Don't necessarily assume that what you have isn't good enough, except you will need a class 3 hitch. Also when you get the wiring done, make sure that they hook up the charging wire correctly. From my personal experience, U Haul is not the place to go. A decent hitch shop will also take care of that too.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:22 PM   #9
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When they run the charging wire make sure there’s fusing or a circuit breaker wired in and use a minimum #10 size wire. It’s best to run the wire through the vehicle as opposed to exposed under the tow where it’s subject to damage or corrosion. In my opinion. We have the Anderson hitch for the 21. It’s a little quirky to hook up in that it works best if the tow vehichle hooks up easiest backed straight in and at the same “stinger” height as the trailer when the trailer and tow are level. Variations are possible but can get you into a physics logic exercise before success is achieved. For me it always ends in success and later I smack my forehead with my open hand, proclaim myself a dumb ethnic heritage, and promise to remember what I did to make it hook up easily after fighting a bad angle or whatever. We had the Escape “pro Tow” on the 19 and it worked fine too. Several owners have the Easy 2 and like it real well too. It’s only money and that pales in importance when you get in a situation where the hitch is your primary control mechanism in a tight or dangerous situation. YMMV
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:41 PM   #10
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The hitch Kia put on has no visible branding, so I'll assume its crap and I'll likely need to replace it. I guess this could get expensive
I would guess the opposite. If it is a Kia OEM accessory (not something that a Kia dealer had a local hitch shop put on), it will likely be rated for the full towing capacity of the vehicle and well designed to fit the vehicle. I would check with the dealership for what was actually installed.
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