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Old 11-15-2013, 01:22 PM   #41
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Thanks to AZJack, TAfraser, Brian B-P & all others. Keep the feedback coming in on your 21' ownership.
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:32 PM   #42
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Keep the feedback coming in on your 21' ownership.
... or at least virtual/desired ownership
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:44 PM   #43
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I am very sure that Sherline says not to keep weight on the scale. That is what you are doing when you do not take all of the weight off between weighings. Weight should not be kept on the scale for any extended time. You do a weighing and then you do another weighing when you are ready for the next one. That does not seem to be the case here and others have found that the scale will not work when used that way.




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Originally Posted by TAfraser View Post
Brian, I agree with you on not having to go back to zero in order to attain an accurate reading. Nowhere in the Sherline manual does it state that zeroing is a requirement. I also talked to their maintenance/testing department lead. I gave him a sequential list of my tests, their setups, etc. and they thought that the scale I had was sticking (seal resistance) because of the return inaccuracies. This new scale does basically the same thing though. I'll bet my setup, lack of control on tongue height along with my lack of understanding about dual axle and chocks, is part, or all of the problem.

Before I call them again, I plan on doing more testing. Maybe I'll take the scale into my old calibration lab and test it under a strictly controlled environment. We would know for sure how accurate the Sherline is along with any and all limitations. I'll let you know the outcome.
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:48 PM   #44
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1. Do not pick up the scale by the black piston. Always handle and carry the scale by the red body or the gauge. The piston is held in place by friction with the O-ring in the cylinder only. Lifting by the piston can draw air into the system or, at worst the piston can come out entirely, spilling the hydraulic fluid. Air in the system will cause inconsistent and unreliable readings.
2. Do not drop a load onto or off of the scale suddenly. Shock loading can cause the gauge needle to spin and not return to the original zero range. In this case the gauge must be replaced, it cannot be reset to zero.
3. If the scale has not been used for a long time, rotate the piston back and forth in the cylinder to free up the O-ring so it does not stick to the cylinder wall. (Again, do not pull up on it.)
4. Do not leave a heavy weight sitting on the scale for long periods of time. Take your reading and then remove the load from the scale.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:59 AM   #45
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I am very sure that Sherline says not to keep weight on the scale. That is what you are doing when you do not take all of the weight off between weighings. Weight should not be kept on the scale for any extended time.
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4. Do not leave a heavy weight sitting on the scale for long periods of time. Take your reading and then remove the load from the scale.
They don't define "long periods of time", but I think they're talking about hours, not seconds or even minutes. The device has a simple single O-ring seal, and will leak under sustained force. If it can't handle a few minutes of use, I certainly wouldn't pay a hundred bucks for it! It would also be useless in a commercial setting.
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Old 11-16-2013, 01:40 AM   #46
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It's the problem with manuals. What is a long time? Or, for my RAV4, what is hard towing for an extended period?
I'm planning on taking my Sherline gauge off again tomorrow, top up the oil and see if I can get the gauge to seat so that I can read it without craning my neck.
If anybody has a hint on how to start threading the gauge so that it ends facing up instead of facing down, I'd appreciate it.
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:51 AM   #47
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plumber's tape may help.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:59 AM   #48
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You mean Teflon tape? I used that. I was warned by Sherline not to apply it too close to the end of the threads or fragments can end up in the oil and plug the valve. I'm going to try to apply the minimum, maybe one wrap.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:03 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
...If anybody has a hint on how to start threading the gauge so that it ends facing up instead of facing down, I'd appreciate it.
Is there room to add a lock nut on the threads of the gauge so that you can orient the gage and then tighten the lock nut?
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:39 PM   #50
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Good thought. I will explore that. Have to ensure no oil can escape or air get in.
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