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Old 11-07-2015, 10:49 PM   #11
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Good suggestion Gringo, I'll make sure the hitch lock and locking pin are in my tow bucket.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:06 AM   #12
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Good to remember; one new owner had their Andersen stinger stolen within a few days of pickup as their locking hitch pin wasn't installed at pick-up.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:16 AM   #13
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If you need to purchase locking pins, be aware that they come in difference lengths and shaft diameters. A standard locking coupler pin will work fine on your escape but you will need to measure the outside width on your receiver on the tow vehicle and the diameter so you get the maximum shaft diameter available that will fit the hole and to make sure the shaft length is adequate. I got mine from E Trailer as well as my coupler lock that goes up inside the coupler. I get my belts and suspenders at the farm store.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:57 AM   #14
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BOLT makes a nice line of locks that use the OEM ignition key of several vehicle makes. Saves from having to carry even more keys.

Only disadvantage I have found thus far is having to turn off my tow vehicle when hitching up to lock the hitch coupler as the key is required to lock and unlock that lock.

One-Key Lock Technology - Learns YOUR key the first time you use them — BOLT Locks by Strattec
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:12 AM   #15
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I get my belts and suspenders at the farm store.
Dave
Are you a Fleet Farm or a Farm and Fleet guy?
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:27 PM   #16
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Blaine's Farm and Fleet, Theisen's or any of a number of Amish stores both north and south of us. Mills does not have any stores close by.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:59 PM   #17
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As others have said, ETI does it all. Dennis installed the brackets on the trailer tongue, took some measurements, including from the top of the front wheel well on the truck. Then he attached the chains, two links hanging and re-measured the distance from the top of the wheel well to the ground. The truck was level, we've done many thousands of miles since, hands off and no further adjustments have been required.

Ron
I'm clueless about all this stuff, so please bear with me. Is this something that will change between different loads in the towing vehicle?

Example - I've loaded up the truck with stuff for a bazaar I want to vend at. It's lots heavier than normal - by how much I don't know as I've never weighed my FJ loaded for a show vs unloaded. (Heck, I've never weighed it in either situation!) Will the hitch be adjusted differently in each situation?

And does it depend on how much stuff you have in your trailer as well? I imagine when it's set up at ETI your trailer hasn't been loaded up with your food, bedding, clothes and other stuff.

AND, most importantly (for me, that is), how easy is it to hook up these WDHs? I don't have a lot of strength and I've been told they can be a bitch to hook up in that regard. Are any brands easier than others? The person that told me this had last used one many years ago so I'm hoping maybe they're easier to use nowadays. I'd be using the trailer quite a bit by myself, so I really need to be able to hitch it up myself.

Thanks!
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Old 11-08-2015, 01:25 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner View Post
I'm clueless about all this stuff, so please bear with me. Is this something that will change between different loads in the towing vehicle?

Example - I've loaded up the truck with stuff for a bazaar I want to vend at. It's lots heavier than normal - by how much I don't know as I've never weighed my FJ loaded for a show vs unloaded. (Heck, I've never weighed it in either situation!) Will the hitch be adjusted differently in each situation?

And does it depend on how much stuff you have in your trailer as well? I imagine when it's set up at ETI your trailer hasn't been loaded up with your food, bedding, clothes and other stuff.

AND, most importantly (for me, that is), how easy is it to hook up these WDHs? I don't have a lot of strength and I've been told they can be a bitch to hook up in that regard. Are any brands easier than others? The person that told me this had last used one many years ago so I'm hoping maybe they're easier to use nowadays. I'd be using the trailer quite a bit by myself, so I really need to be able to hitch it up myself.

Thanks!
I have never changed the arrangement (pre-load) that Reace installed for me and my Escape looks level, and the link he attached to the hook for me I've painted with bright nail polish.
I would heartily recommend an electric jack. The bars are a bit heavy but not unmanageable. (I have never weighed them, but I am sure someone knows how much they weigh.) I would recommend also a curved lever bar (or whatever it is called) as it makes it much easier to hook up the chains to the trailer. Also remember the higher the trailer front is, the easier it is to lift the bars (with the chains attached to the "hook"), as it lessens the tension, so I've been told.
Also, it is helpful to: 1. Write down the sequence. 2. When un-hooking the trailer all the steps in reverse. After a bit, it will become much easier. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-08-2015, 01:43 PM   #19
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When Reace attached and adjusted our WDH he asked it the truck was loaded as it normally would be on trips. It was, so he went with that as our "base" adjustment. So I recommend showing up at ETI with your tow loaded similarly to how it will usually be when you are towing. It is not hard to do the hookup after you get used to it. As Sandra said, having the front of the trailer raised in the jack after hooking up the ball, makes it even easier to raise the bars into place. Whoever does the hookup at ETI will walk you through it all. Seems like a lot to remember the first time thru, but it soon becomes quite simple.
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Old 11-08-2015, 02:01 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner View Post
I don't have a lot of strength and I've been told they can be a bitch to hook up in that regard.
Thanks!
I've seen people hooking up who unfortunately didn't know about raising the trailer tongue. Brutal and the language Raise the tongue and you don't even need to use the bar. I use my fingers.

Ron
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