Will my tailgate hit the power jack? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-23-2017, 11:17 AM   #11
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FWIW- Andersen will make you a new stinger at a length that will allow you to open the tailgate. I was quoted $128.
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:39 AM   #12
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Thanks, Paul. I look forward to hearing how things go for you. I'm already using an 11.25" ball mount (center of retaining pin hole to center of ball hole), and I think it's going to be close. If not, Hidden Hitch offers a 14" ball mount that should. I'm reluctant to go with a Jack-E-Up just because that's one more thing to have to do setting up and tearing down camp, but will if that's what it takes to lower the tailgate. On our current all-electric EggCamper (no propane tanks on the trailer tongue), the original owner actually fabricated a jack mount about a foot further back from the trailer coupler so their hatchback wouldn't hit the power jack head when opening. That's worked great for us, too.
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Old 01-23-2017, 01:25 PM   #13
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Anderson quoted me $198 for the custom stinger. It would be the simpler and more elegant solution, and since I too needed only 2-3" for clearance wouldn't have changed the towing geometry very much. But seemed pretty pricey. The Jack-E-Up (on sale at Camping World) and electrical fittings came in at about $60. I didn't take any pics during installation, but will try to do so soon and get them posted.
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Old 01-23-2017, 02:45 PM   #14
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Remember the longer the stinger becomes, the more stress you place on your hitch and it lowers your capacities as well as impacts your towing experience. Short stingers are preferred if possible.
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Old 01-23-2017, 02:54 PM   #15
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If you are using a WDH, would the length of the stinger matter as much?
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:16 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
If you are using a WDH, would the length of the stinger matter as much?
I don't think it matters. But the geometry does change, (the leverage point (ball) is further away from the tow vehicle axle) so there might be some adjustment needed.
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Old 01-23-2017, 08:11 PM   #17
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Hidden Hitch makes stock ball mounts up to 14" for under $40.00. If my 11.25" ends up being just a tad too short, I might purchase a 14" and cut it down as much as possible to fit. I don't think that would be too problematic for our 2016 F-150 tow vehicle. We'll see.
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:26 PM   #18
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I don't think it matters. But the geometry does change, (the leverage point (ball) is further away from the tow vehicle axle) so there might be some adjustment needed.
Riddle me this (using real measurements):
Truck #1, 8' bed, 52" from center of rear axle to hitch receiver opening.
Truck #2, 5.5' bed 48" from center of rear axle to hitch receiver opening.

So, since there is a 4" difference in distance from center of rear axle to hitch receiver opening, it seems I would have equal towing "geometry" using a 4" longer ball mount with Truck #2 compared to Truck #1. Is that right?
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Old 01-27-2017, 02:43 PM   #19
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I think it would be close. Of course, can't really tell until you set it up. It's not just the distance from the axle to the ball.
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Old 01-27-2017, 04:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Riddle me this (using real measurements):
Truck #1, 8' bed, 52" from center of rear axle to hitch receiver opening.
Truck #2, 5.5' bed 48" from center of rear axle to hitch receiver opening.

So, since there is a 4" difference in distance from center of rear axle to hitch receiver opening, it seems I would have equal towing "geometry" using a 4" longer ball mount with Truck #2 compared to Truck #1. Is that right?
Not unless truck #2 has a longer cab and thus the same wheelbase as truck #1. It isn't just the distance from axle to ball, but the ratio of this distance to wheelbase which determines load transfer off of the front axle (and thus WD effect needed), and stability.
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