Many places to see. I like the north end of Graham Island the most because of the great beaches, remote feeling, and have camped at the north beach for a while walking the beach, enjoying the views and crabbing. Definitely have to stop at Haida Gwaii museum at Skidegate and join the tour. They have a cafeteria with very good food, their chinook salmon burger was excellent.
We were lucky enough to get in on a "Community" salmon dinner in the hall in Skidegate.... Was excellent food---but I agree that museum is fantastic...