|
|
08-29-2016, 06:17 PM
|
#21
|
Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,023
|
I'm in the same boat as GregandTeresa, Ten Forward is 4" too tall to fit under the carport. And there's nothing easy about lifting an 18'x25' metal carport. I've looked and looked and can't find anyone to do the work. They're all afraid to disconnect the legs and lift because of possibly twisting it. Everyone wants to take it apart first. By time that's done and lifted, I'd be into as much money as buying brand new. This is the ONLY time I've regretted not buying a 21'. It would fit just fine.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
|
|
|
08-29-2016, 06:48 PM
|
#22
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal
A very bad idea. It would be better to bolt on a set of rims without tires. Cast machined brake drums are not designed for side loading. Have you actually
tried this ?
|
No, but I've seen it done with no damage. I'm not saying I'd recommend it, just that it's viable. If reducing the height by the height of the tires was enough to clear, I agree that empty wheels would be better.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
08-29-2016, 06:59 PM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 555
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal
A very bad idea. It would be better to bolt on a set of rims without tires. Cast machined brake drums are not designed for side loading. Have you actually
tried this ?
|
I agree with Jubal. you could bolt on a set of generic wheels and roll on the rims but I would not suggest rolling on the drums. I had a similar problem storing my Escape 19 this year in my brothers pole barn. The solution to my problem was easy since my brothers barn had a dirt floor. Took the tractor and removed 5 or 6 inches of the floor, fit perfectly. If your floor is dirt you could just dig two trenches for the tires. Just a thought.
|
|
|
08-29-2016, 07:22 PM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N/A, Indiana
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 976
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
No, but I've seen it done with no damage. I'm not saying I'd recommend it, just that it's viable. If reducing the height by the height of the tires was enough to clear, I agree that empty wheels would be better.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
|
The best advise on this forum is a result of actual experience.
__________________
"Never argue with an idiot. They only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin
|
|
|
08-29-2016, 07:38 PM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
|
Cast iron brake drums would surely be damaged quickly rolling across concrete with 3500lbs sitting on them. A spare set of rims without tires is a much better idea.
Boy can we get off topic fast.
Once again happy your first trip was a good experience Greg and Teresa.
__________________
Tom
|
|
|
08-29-2016, 10:35 PM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
|
To fit, the trailer needs to be lowered by three inches. I think a sane person would also add some margin for error.
The stock ST205/75R15 tires are 27" in overall diameter, or 13.5" radius. To lower by at least 3.5", a replacement tire would need to be 20" overall... and that's hard to find. There are 4.80-12 trailer tires of that diameter, and suitable 12" wheels are only twenty bucks and might clear the brake drums. These tires can be purchased complete with wheels for just over US$50.
Bare rims work, but are hard to roll over anything but a nearly perfect surface... and they're hard on the surface.
There are also other clever ways to hold up axles without load bearing on the outside of the drum, and I'm pretty sure this has been discussed in this forum before.
I would not even momentarily consider deflating tires with only six inches of sidewall by over three inches, even while momentarily stationary, let alone rolling the tires in this condition or leaving it in storage with any deflation. Trailer tires are of notoriously poor quality to start with, so why invite problems?
|
|
|
08-30-2016, 01:33 AM
|
#27
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: South Lake Tahoe, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
Posts: 253
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
I would not even momentarily consider deflating tires with only six inches of sidewall by over three inches, even while momentarily stationary, let alone rolling the tires in this condition or leaving it in storage with any deflation. Trailer tires are of notoriously poor quality to start with, so why invite problems?
|
Maybe I'm missing something, but why not? Tire flexion only matters if it happens fast enough to build up heat, which is when tires suffer blowouts typically. Rolling it at a very slow speed will not cause any damage unless the rim is sitting directly on the underside of the tire. You risk losing the bead at really low pressures, but that's about it. We do this all the time off-road. Sometimes well over 100-miles at a time at speeds up to 45mph, but mostly slow rolling.
|
|
|
08-30-2016, 05:00 AM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
|
One can remove the tires and place a wheel dolly under the drums and easily push the trailer on a smooth surface, these are like $60/pair Steel Car Wheel Dolly Tire Skates | DiscountRamps.com
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
|
|
|
08-30-2016, 06:24 AM
|
#29
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
|
And I thought putting a cover on the trailer was considered too much work.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
|
|
|
08-30-2016, 06:43 AM
|
#30
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lewisburg, Tennessee
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19 Classic
Posts: 516
|
Wow, I never expected to get so much feedback on that one part of my posting. Most everything mentioned on here has at least crossed my mind, but I think it would probably be cheaper for me to just get one of those steel carports and put it up in the back yard than to hire someone to raise my carport (that could probably be done, but while I'm capable of building a new carport, raising my existing one would be way above my pay grade).
I also did think about removing some air from the tires, but if I do that, I would have to leave them under inflated as long it was sitting there, which would be most of the time.
One other option that I have that I would be capable of doing most of myself is moving part of an existing fence up and building an extension off the back of my existing carport, with the extension being high enough to drive under. That is the way that I'm currently leaning. I'm going to price out the cost of the lumber for that this week, and then decide if I want to do that, or get a new metal carport for the back yard.
One other question that I have...are their better options for the arms that hold up the front window rock guard? I was going to call Escape today and get a price for a replacement for the one that I broke, but if there are better options that would work on the 19, I would gladly consider that too.
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|