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Old 08-29-2016, 07:17 PM   #21
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I'm in the same boat as GregandTeresa, Ten Forward is 4" too tall to fit under the carport. And there's nothing easy about lifting an 18'x25' metal carport. I've looked and looked and can't find anyone to do the work. They're all afraid to disconnect the legs and lift because of possibly twisting it. Everyone wants to take it apart first. By time that's done and lifted, I'd be into as much money as buying brand new. This is the ONLY time I've regretted not buying a 21'. It would fit just fine.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:48 PM   #22
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A very bad idea. It would be better to bolt on a set of rims without tires. Cast machined brake drums are not designed for side loading. Have you actually
tried this ?
No, but I've seen it done with no damage. I'm not saying I'd recommend it, just that it's viable. If reducing the height by the height of the tires was enough to clear, I agree that empty wheels would be better.

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Old 08-29-2016, 07:59 PM   #23
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A very bad idea. It would be better to bolt on a set of rims without tires. Cast machined brake drums are not designed for side loading. Have you actually
tried this ?
I agree with Jubal. you could bolt on a set of generic wheels and roll on the rims but I would not suggest rolling on the drums. I had a similar problem storing my Escape 19 this year in my brothers pole barn. The solution to my problem was easy since my brothers barn had a dirt floor. Took the tractor and removed 5 or 6 inches of the floor, fit perfectly. If your floor is dirt you could just dig two trenches for the tires. Just a thought.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:22 PM   #24
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No, but I've seen it done with no damage. I'm not saying I'd recommend it, just that it's viable. If reducing the height by the height of the tires was enough to clear, I agree that empty wheels would be better.

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Old 08-29-2016, 08:38 PM   #25
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Cast iron brake drums would surely be damaged quickly rolling across concrete with 3500lbs sitting on them. A spare set of rims without tires is a much better idea.

Boy can we get off topic fast.

Once again happy your first trip was a good experience Greg and Teresa.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:35 PM   #26
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To fit, the trailer needs to be lowered by three inches. I think a sane person would also add some margin for error.

The stock ST205/75R15 tires are 27" in overall diameter, or 13.5" radius. To lower by at least 3.5", a replacement tire would need to be 20" overall... and that's hard to find. There are 4.80-12 trailer tires of that diameter, and suitable 12" wheels are only twenty bucks and might clear the brake drums. These tires can be purchased complete with wheels for just over US$50.

Bare rims work, but are hard to roll over anything but a nearly perfect surface... and they're hard on the surface.

There are also other clever ways to hold up axles without load bearing on the outside of the drum, and I'm pretty sure this has been discussed in this forum before.

I would not even momentarily consider deflating tires with only six inches of sidewall by over three inches, even while momentarily stationary, let alone rolling the tires in this condition or leaving it in storage with any deflation. Trailer tires are of notoriously poor quality to start with, so why invite problems?
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:33 AM   #27
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I would not even momentarily consider deflating tires with only six inches of sidewall by over three inches, even while momentarily stationary, let alone rolling the tires in this condition or leaving it in storage with any deflation. Trailer tires are of notoriously poor quality to start with, so why invite problems?
Maybe I'm missing something, but why not? Tire flexion only matters if it happens fast enough to build up heat, which is when tires suffer blowouts typically. Rolling it at a very slow speed will not cause any damage unless the rim is sitting directly on the underside of the tire. You risk losing the bead at really low pressures, but that's about it. We do this all the time off-road. Sometimes well over 100-miles at a time at speeds up to 45mph, but mostly slow rolling.
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:00 AM   #28
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One can remove the tires and place a wheel dolly under the drums and easily push the trailer on a smooth surface, these are like $60/pair Steel Car Wheel Dolly Tire Skates | DiscountRamps.com
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:24 AM   #29
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And I thought putting a cover on the trailer was considered too much work.
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:43 AM   #30
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Wow, I never expected to get so much feedback on that one part of my posting. Most everything mentioned on here has at least crossed my mind, but I think it would probably be cheaper for me to just get one of those steel carports and put it up in the back yard than to hire someone to raise my carport (that could probably be done, but while I'm capable of building a new carport, raising my existing one would be way above my pay grade).

I also did think about removing some air from the tires, but if I do that, I would have to leave them under inflated as long it was sitting there, which would be most of the time.

One other option that I have that I would be capable of doing most of myself is moving part of an existing fence up and building an extension off the back of my existing carport, with the extension being high enough to drive under. That is the way that I'm currently leaning. I'm going to price out the cost of the lumber for that this week, and then decide if I want to do that, or get a new metal carport for the back yard.

One other question that I have...are their better options for the arms that hold up the front window rock guard? I was going to call Escape today and get a price for a replacement for the one that I broke, but if there are better options that would work on the 19, I would gladly consider that too.
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