5.0 TA Storage Shed- Being Planned

[sleepy]

I am planning to build a storage shed for our new 5.0 TA. I'm thinking of 2x6 stud construction with ranchwall (grooved siding), 'battens' to look like board and batten siding, a metal roof, open at the front entry, a door on the side wall near the back, and open walls, above the 8' height.
Size to be 22' long, 10' height (inside measure), and 10' wide. A 3/12 truss roof covered with red metal. Wired for lights, and receptacles, plus a potential sewer connection (in floor) for the future. I also plan to imbed a large steel loop (boom chain, maybe...) into the floor concrete- this loop can act as the lock up point to the shed.
Additionally I plan to spray white paint on the interior walls, for the lighting.
Another idea I have is to place a swing out 7' steel arm, from the front top of the shed, so that I can remove my truck cap, without as much help.


Have you built a storage shed?
What did you include?
What type of construction did you go with?
What would you add?

A shed would protect the trailer in the winter months, and add security.

[Loren & Cathy]

An extra shed is always great to have around and I have built buildings of almost every kind. The first thing I would change is the width. If you have the room on your lot I would go wider. The construction is usually determined if you are trying to match the looks of existing buildings. You will probably ask yourself, why didn't I build it bigger? Loren

[GerriJ]

I agree with Loren. I stored my 5.0 (narrower than a 5.0TA) in a Costco canopy for a couple of years. They are 10 X20 and there wasn't much room on the drivers side, allowing room to open the door on the passenger side. 12 feet wide would be a big improvement. Now I have a share of a 85'X30' canopy. We have 3 full size trailers plus our in there - nice.

[Klem]

I covered our trailerport with UV blocking Lexan at a 4/12 pitch. Nice to have natural light.

I park a 19' in it now. 22' deep, and 12' feet wide with a 2'x7' storage rack in the back side. More width in the front = smoother backing in !

[rfs]

We built a new Lester post frame metal building this summer. It is 24 x 32 with 12 foot side walls. The door is 10' high and 18' wide. The roof pitch is 4/12. It has a 4" concrete floor with an 8' x 24' approach. We have our Escape 19 inside and can open our awning to dry if needed. In the winter it will also hold more of our rolling stock - boat, flatbed trailer, mower etc. We are happy not to be paying storage garage fees anymore and find it very convenient to have the 19 at our home.

[Loren & Cathy]

rfs, I love your choice of colors. Also when building a shed or your Escape trailer for that matter, plan ahead and do your wiring, plumbing, and accessories, from the beginning. It saves so much time, trouble, and expense later on. We're going to add options to the trailer that we really don't think we want now, but probably will later. Plans change. And I always plan on resale value. Loren

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy

The first thing I would change is the width. If you have the room on your lot I would go wider.

Exactly what I thought when reading the post.

Originally Posted by rfs

We built a new Lester post frame metal building this summer. It is 24 x 32 with 12 foot side walls. The door is 10' high and 18' wide. The roof pitch is 4/12. It has a 4" concrete floor with an 8' x 24' approach. We have our Escape 19 inside and can open our awning to dry if needed. In the winter it will also hold more of our rolling stock - boat, flatbed trailer, mower etc. We are happy not to be paying storage garage fees anymore and find it very convenient to have the 19 at our home.

Very nice.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by sleepy

Another idea I have is to place a swing out 7' steel arm, from the front top of the shed, so that I can remove my truck cap, without as much help.

I put 4 pulleys on the rafters spaced not quite at the corners of my cap. Then slide 2 2x4s under the cap, loop the ropes over the ends of the 2x4s. The 4 ropes pass over the pulleys over to a boat winch mounted on the wall. Cranks up and down easy and less than $100 total.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by sleepy

Size to be 22' long, 10' height (inside measure), and 10' wide.

I think it's too narrow, too short and not long enough. My 5.0TA measures 20'5" tip of hitch to rear bumper. Is 9'5" tall, without A/C and is right at 8' wide when the step is deployed. I'm not sure the ETI measurements include the arms of the awning either.

Yes you may be able to get your 5er inside the build you're planning, but you may not be able to open the door or work on the top if needed.

[padlin]

Agree with Donna, add enough to the front and back to get around the unit. If I read your OP right you are going to have an enclosed back and just the lower 8' of the sides. If you have the room, I'd make it wide and long enough to be able to work on, maybe 2-3' all around. For the height, the AC is lower then the Jack antenna. I don't remember my measurement for the height, but it was right about 10'. If you need it let me know and I'll check it when it's not raining.
Depending how experienced you are with backing one of these, you need a bit of slop clearance. For me, I'd want a doorway that's an extra 12" on both sides, maybe a little less.

[sleepy]

Thanks for the input.
I'm going to build it 12' wide. I live on a suburban lot.
Building code and site zoning control the height, size and lot line set backs-I can only build it a wee bit higher (10' plus the roof)
I already have a 660 sq ft shop, within a few feet of this propsed one. It does not have room for the 5.0 TA.
I'm looking for a way of removing the truck cap, when the trailer is already in the shed- hence the idea of a swing boom- mounted on the outside of the shed.

[sleepy]

I have poured footings and foundations for my new garage.
The dimensions are 14'x24'.
I'm considering either a 10' high door or an 11' high door. I'd rather go 10' because this then allows me to lower the overall height profile of the garage.
The door width is going to be 10'

Building code dictates the maximum height of my building, so I'm working from both the top down, and grade with drainage, up. The fudge room will be between the head room above the door, and the potential attic storage space (adjusting the roof pitch within the max height). Optimum head room is 14" but I have been told by a garage door guy that 9" might be the minimum headroom.

ETI have said that the 5.0 TA height is 9' 3"and with AC 9' 6". The garage door height of 10 equals a finished height of 9' 11''.

Potentially this means the top of the trailer has 5" of clearance.

Does anyone have a 5.0 TA that they garage, and what door height do you have?
I'm asking for discussion on which door height is the best. Also headroom issues with a powered garage door.

Thanks

[Jim Bennett]

10' height will work fine for you then. You can finish the height of the door opening at exactly 10' in height. In normal use, the bottom edge of the door will hang down a bit, but can be forced up to give you the full 10', though not really needed.

Here in Calgary, the interior finished height is only allowed to be 3m (9' 10"), but we have done 10' without the inspector saying anything. If you want to go higher, you need to first apply for a relaxation, which you may or may not get, as neighbours have the right to give input.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by sleepy

I have poured footings and foundations for my new garage.
The dimensions are 14'x24'.
I'm considering either a 10' high door or an 11' high door. I'd rather go 10' because this then allows me to lower the overall height profile of the garage.
The door width is going to be 10'

Building code dictates the maximum height of my building, so I'm working from both the top down, and grade with drainage, up. The fudge room will be between the head room above the door, and the potential attic storage space (adjusting the roof pitch within the max height). Optimum head room is 14" but I have been told by a garage door guy that 9" might be the minimum headroom.

ETI have said that the 5.0 TA height is 9' 3"and with AC 9' 6". The garage door height of 10 equals a finished height of 9' 11''.

Potentially this means the top of the trailer has 5" of clearance.

Does anyone have a 5.0 TA that they garage, and what door height do you have?
I'm asking for discussion on which door height is the best. Also headroom issues with a powered garage door.

Thanks

Hi: sleepy... Our 5.0TA is 10' 3" to the top of the King Jack TV antenna. I asked Reace to measure it when we were still in ETI's shop. Our suspension is set at the lowest setting for our Frontier 4X4. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[skiman]

Watch out for the Jack antenna. It is higher than everything on a 21'.

[dfandrews]

If you find you really need the taller door, one way to gain the space for it is for a little creative framing of the garage, without raising the roof ridge height.
If the garage is a gable roof, with the ridge running from front to back, you can take advantage of that high front vertical gable area to set the door opening height higher than the side wall top plate heights.
If, for instance, your roof pitch is 4:12 (4 inch rise in each 12 inch run), and you have 2 foot walls on each side of the door, you can gain up to 8 inches vertically in the area of the door.
It is not your ordinary garage framing, but it is not unusual, and is certainly do-able.

[sleepy]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

If you find you really need the taller door, one way to gain the space for it is for a little creative framing of the garage, without raising the roof ridge height.
If the garage is a gable roof, with the ridge running from front to back, you can take advantage of that high front vertical gable area to set the door opening height higher than the side wall top plate heights.
If, for instance, your roof pitch is 4:12 (4 inch rise in each 12 inch run), and you have 2 foot walls on each side of the door, you can gain up to 8 inches vertically in the area of the door.
It is not your ordinary garage framing, but it is not unusual, and is certainly do-able.

Thanks for this idea- I understand what you're suggesting. The collar ties (via the rafters) would then hold walls vertical.
My maximum building height (by code) is 14' 9". I can place an 11' high door, plus headroom and roof but would prefer to keep the building profile as low as possible (small suburban lot aesthetics).