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10-25-2015, 07:55 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Getting back to the humidity thing... Just started getting into the 30's at night, we're finding a good deal of moisture between the bed and the front of the loft on our fifth wheel, as well as the thermal Window glass and frame, and behind the dinette cushions. So far a couple paper towels in the am takes care of it but the question is how to ventilate to avoid such. So far... Furnace set to 62, showers at the campground facilities, very little cooking other then tea and coffee. Have been leaving the maxfan vent open but not running. there is a space between the mattress and the loft wall.
Leaving the vent fan running with another window open rodent't make sense at me if I'm trying to heat the trailer.
By the way, I see what Alf meant, memory foam is not the greatest product for cold weather in a trailer.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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10-25-2015, 08:05 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Denison, Texas
Trailer: 2015 21'; 2011 19' sold; 4Runner; ph ninezero3 327-27ninefour
Posts: 5,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
Getting back to the humidity thing... Just started getting into the 30's at night, we're finding a good deal of moisture between the bed and the front of the loft on our fifth wheel, as well as the thermal Window glass and frame, and behind the dinette cushions. So far a couple paper towels in the am takes care of it but the question is how to ventilate to avoid such. So far... Furnace set to 62, showers at the campground facilities, very little cooking other then tea and coffee. Have been leaving the maxfan vent open but not running. there is a space between the mattress and the loft wall.
Leaving the vent fan running with another window open rodent't make sense at me if I'm trying to heat the trailer.
By the way, I see what Alf meant, memory foam is not the greatest product for cold weather in a trailer.
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You need a window open but not much.
__________________
Cathy. Floating Cloud
"Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.... "
Emerson
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10-25-2015, 08:16 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA (Little Elsie) Extensively Personalized
Posts: 2,970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
Getting back to the humidity thing... Just started getting into the 30's at night, we're finding a good deal of moisture between the bed and the front of the loft on our fifth wheel, as well as the thermal Window glass and frame, and behind the dinette cushions.
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As I said previously (post 31), the Ecoseb dehumidifier, approximately $195 from Amazon will eliminate all humidity problems. Last weekend with lows of 38 F on Saturday morning and 36 F on Sunday morning with the inside of the trailer staying between 72 and 75 F there was not a single drop of condensation anywhere. The Ecoseb's holding capacity is 15 pints and I have seen it fill the container in less than 24 hours. And I do not crack the vent open. This thing does work.
__________________
What a long strange trip it’s been!
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10-25-2015, 09:01 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: O town, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 "Lightning"
Posts: 1,467
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I crack up the bathroom vent.
I had been meaning to try using the maxx in ceiling fan mode to see if circulating air helped. Trailers winterize now so won't be able to test that theory.
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10-25-2015, 09:09 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
By the way, I see what Alf meant, memory foam is not the greatest product for cold weather in a trailer.
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That's why you need to look into Latex topper. Got this for my son, and it compares very well to a Pure Latex Bliss for twice the price; on Amazon:100% Natural Latex Mattress Topper - Reversible with 2 Firmnesses, Full
Sold by: eLuxury Supply. Queen: $229.
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10-25-2015, 09:14 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin;
Leaving the vent fan running with another window open rodent't make sense at me if I'm trying to heat the trailer.
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Leaving a window (or a hatch) open when trying to heat may not seem like an intuitive thing to do but the theory behind it is; cold air, when heated has the ability to absorb moisture from the air. If some of the that moisture ladden air is then exhausted to the exterior the interior humidity is reduced. Old style natural draft furnaces did a pretty good job of doing this. Modern sealed high efficiency furnaces in draft proofed houses, not so much.
So a roof hatch cracked open a very small amount is losing warm air but it is taking out moisture at the same time.
Ron
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10-25-2015, 09:30 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
That's why you need to look into Latex topper. Got this for my son, and it compares very well to a Pure Latex Bliss for twice the price; on Amazon:100% Natural Latex Mattress Topper - Reversible with 2 Firmnesses, Full
Sold by: eLuxury Supply. Queen: $229.
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Yeah, memory foam does not breathe well, and for hot sleepers like me, latex is much better. The 2 1/2" latex topper we had in the 19 was like sleeping on a cloud.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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10-25-2015, 10:35 PM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Brian,
I was implying that the bath vent would be in addition to the normal front vent, not in lieu of. Very easily done with 2 vent outputs.
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Yes, that's what I understood you meant, Jim. The problem is that no significant airflow will come out of the bath outlet if it is discharging into a closed box (the bathroom with the door closed), leaving only the other one effectively flowing. Atwood wants a substantial vent area (24 square inches, if I recall correctly), and so it would be easy to excessively choke it off with one freely flowing duct and one that's obstructed.
A particularly big gap under the bathroom door, or a vent grill in the door, might be enough to keep the airflow up.
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10-26-2015, 07:49 AM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Went and found a state park outside Topeka that has power, ran the 15 qt dehumidifier all night (yes, I actually carry one). No condensation at any of the windows, still some at the head of the bed but much better as expected. Back to no hookups tonight, will try the open vent and cracked window.
Will order a latex topper before our winter trip.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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10-26-2015, 10:26 AM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
Yes, that's what I understood you meant, Jim. The problem is that no significant airflow will come out of the bath outlet if it is discharging into a closed box (the bathroom with the door closed), leaving only the other one effectively flowing. Atwood wants a substantial vent area (24 square inches, if I recall correctly), and so it would be easy to excessively choke it off with one freely flowing duct and one that's obstructed.
A particularly big gap under the bathroom door, or a vent grill in the door, might be enough to keep the airflow up.
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The doors are now cut smaller with 2" gap at top and bottom....
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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10-26-2015, 12:00 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA (Little Elsie) Extensively Personalized
Posts: 2,970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
The doors are now cut smaller with 2" gap at top and bottom....
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I haven't measured my door gaps, but the door is wider than 12 inches. If it has a 2-inch gap at top and bottom that is more than 24 square inches.....
__________________
What a long strange trip it’s been!
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10-26-2015, 12:33 PM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Longview, WA, Washington
Trailer: 2013 Escape 15B - 2014 Nissan Frontier SL
Posts: 854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yardsale
Regarding condensation. We use our 17b a total of 9 weeks last winter in temps as low as -23 degrees F. With heat and the top vent open about 1" there was no condensation on the walls. Moderate condensation formed on both the double pane and single pane windows once temps fell below, say 25 degrees. The worse condensation (frost) occured on the metal window frames as they are apparently an effecient thermal bridge to the outside. We have covered all the window frames with insulating tape to mitigate this in the future. Our solution to the condensation is wait until the frost melted in the morning and then wipe the wet surfaces down. Bit of a chore but no big deal.
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I have tried several solutions and the frame insulation has been discussed before. My latest, and most successful, is the use of "Warm Window Fabric" sewn into insulated curtain material. If I had left the shades in place these would go all the way around the window, but since we replaced the shades with warm window curtains which cover both the top and the bottom of the window, we only needed to do the sides. I have attached several pics. They are held in place by velcro. The velcro on the windows is "high temp" velcro and the frame was prepped with 3M primer. They hold great and the strips really reduce both heat and cold gain on the frames.
__________________
Tim and Julie
2013 Escape 15B
2014 Nissan Frontier, Previous 2012 Santa Fe
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