Adverse weather conditions

[padlin]

Getting back to the humidity thing... Just started getting into the 30's at night, we're finding a good deal of moisture between the bed and the front of the loft on our fifth wheel, as well as the thermal Window glass and frame, and behind the dinette cushions. So far a couple paper towels in the am takes care of it but the question is how to ventilate to avoid such. So far... Furnace set to 62, showers at the campground facilities, very little cooking other then tea and coffee. Have been leaving the maxfan vent open but not running. there is a space between the mattress and the loft wall.

Leaving the vent fan running with another window open rodent't make sense at me if I'm trying to heat the trailer.

By the way, I see what Alf meant, memory foam is not the greatest product for cold weather in a trailer.

[float5]

Originally Posted by padlin

Getting back to the humidity thing... Just started getting into the 30's at night, we're finding a good deal of moisture between the bed and the front of the loft on our fifth wheel, as well as the thermal Window glass and frame, and behind the dinette cushions. So far a couple paper towels in the am takes care of it but the question is how to ventilate to avoid such. So far... Furnace set to 62, showers at the campground facilities, very little cooking other then tea and coffee. Have been leaving the maxfan vent open but not running. there is a space between the mattress and the loft wall.

Leaving the vent fan running with another window open rodent't make sense at me if I'm trying to heat the trailer.

By the way, I see what Alf meant, memory foam is not the greatest product for cold weather in a trailer.

You need a window open but not much.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by padlin

Getting back to the humidity thing... Just started getting into the 30's at night, we're finding a good deal of moisture between the bed and the front of the loft on our fifth wheel, as well as the thermal Window glass and frame, and behind the dinette cushions.

As I said previously (post 31), the Ecoseb dehumidifier, approximately $195 from Amazon will eliminate all humidity problems. Last weekend with lows of 38 F on Saturday morning and 36 F on Sunday morning with the inside of the trailer staying between 72 and 75 F there was not a single drop of condensation anywhere. The Ecoseb's holding capacity is 15 pints and I have seen it fill the container in less than 24 hours. And I do not crack the vent open. This thing does work.

[BCnomad]

I crack up the bathroom vent.

I had been meaning to try using the maxx in ceiling fan mode to see if circulating air helped. Trailers winterize now so won't be able to test that theory.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by padlin

By the way, I see what Alf meant, memory foam is not the greatest product for cold weather in a trailer.

That's why you need to look into Latex topper. Got this for my son, and it compares very well to a Pure Latex Bliss for twice the price; on Amazon:100% Natural Latex Mattress Topper - Reversible with 2 Firmnesses, Full
Sold by: eLuxury Supply. Queen: $229.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by padlin;

Leaving the vent fan running with another window open rodent't make sense at me if I'm trying to heat the trailer.

Leaving a window (or a hatch) open when trying to heat may not seem like an intuitive thing to do but the theory behind it is; cold air, when heated has the ability to absorb moisture from the air. If some of the that moisture ladden air is then exhausted to the exterior the interior humidity is reduced. Old style natural draft furnaces did a pretty good job of doing this. Modern sealed high efficiency furnaces in draft proofed houses, not so much.

So a roof hatch cracked open a very small amount is losing warm air but it is taking out moisture at the same time.

Ron

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Rossue

That's why you need to look into Latex topper. Got this for my son, and it compares very well to a Pure Latex Bliss for twice the price; on Amazon:100% Natural Latex Mattress Topper - Reversible with 2 Firmnesses, Full
Sold by: eLuxury Supply. Queen: $229.

Yeah, memory foam does not breathe well, and for hot sleepers like me, latex is much better. The 2 1/2" latex topper we had in the 19 was like sleeping on a cloud.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Brian,
I was implying that the bath vent would be in addition to the normal front vent, not in lieu of. Very easily done with 2 vent outputs.

Yes, that's what I understood you meant, Jim. The problem is that no significant airflow will come out of the bath outlet if it is discharging into a closed box (the bathroom with the door closed), leaving only the other one effectively flowing. Atwood wants a substantial vent area (24 square inches, if I recall correctly), and so it would be easy to excessively choke it off with one freely flowing duct and one that's obstructed.

A particularly big gap under the bathroom door, or a vent grill in the door, might be enough to keep the airflow up.

[padlin]

Went and found a state park outside Topeka that has power, ran the 15 qt dehumidifier all night (yes, I actually carry one). No condensation at any of the windows, still some at the head of the bed but much better as expected. Back to no hookups tonight, will try the open vent and cracked window.

Will order a latex topper before our winter trip.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Yes, that's what I understood you meant, Jim. The problem is that no significant airflow will come out of the bath outlet if it is discharging into a closed box (the bathroom with the door closed), leaving only the other one effectively flowing. Atwood wants a substantial vent area (24 square inches, if I recall correctly), and so it would be easy to excessively choke it off with one freely flowing duct and one that's obstructed.

A particularly big gap under the bathroom door, or a vent grill in the door, might be enough to keep the airflow up.

The doors are now cut smaller with 2" gap at top and bottom....

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

The doors are now cut smaller with 2" gap at top and bottom....

I haven't measured my door gaps, but the door is wider than 12 inches. If it has a 2-inch gap at top and bottom that is more than 24 square inches.....

[techfan]

Originally Posted by yardsale

Regarding condensation. We use our 17b a total of 9 weeks last winter in temps as low as -23 degrees F. With heat and the top vent open about 1" there was no condensation on the walls. Moderate condensation formed on both the double pane and single pane windows once temps fell below, say 25 degrees. The worse condensation (frost) occured on the metal window frames as they are apparently an effecient thermal bridge to the outside. We have covered all the window frames with insulating tape to mitigate this in the future. Our solution to the condensation is wait until the frost melted in the morning and then wipe the wet surfaces down. Bit of a chore but no big deal.

I have tried several solutions and the frame insulation has been discussed before. My latest, and most successful, is the use of "Warm Window Fabric" sewn into insulated curtain material. If I had left the shades in place these would go all the way around the window, but since we replaced the shades with warm window curtains which cover both the top and the bottom of the window, we only needed to do the sides. I have attached several pics. They are held in place by velcro. The velcro on the windows is "high temp" velcro and the frame was prepped with 3M primer. They hold great and the strips really reduce both heat and cold gain on the frames.