Alternative Humidity Control - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-17-2014, 05:21 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
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Alternative Humidity Control

Living in the rain forest, preventing mold etc. in my boats has always been necessary. While lots of friends have used the commercial units and forced heat, I've used a very simple unit to prevent humidity build-up and mold.

I've been doing this for over 30 years and have never had a problem. I locate the unit under a hatch that is cracked open a small amount. I use old tomato juice cans. The one on the right is the "tried and true" version. It's been around since Day 1. The other extended unit is one that I've experimented with adding dryer hose to and venting directly into the overhead hatch. Since the original works so well I very rarely bother hooking a duct up to it. It'll probably stay in the Escape as is.

I've used these in all sorts of ways. In my garden shed, my green house, my dahlia storage area etc. Some I put on timers so they don't operated full time and I vary the wattage of the bulbs depending on the situation.

What I like about this type of heater is that it's trouble free and doesn't require any attention over the winter. Works for me.

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Old 10-17-2014, 06:45 PM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 434
I like your idea. I've often left a trouble light plugged in over the winter or a bulb and socket on a spring clamp attached to the table. What wattage bulbs are you using? Is there a gap around the base of the can?

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Old 10-17-2014, 07:17 PM   #3
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My theory is that the chimney effect from the can is more effective at creating a slight upward stream of air. I wanted to move the coldest, densest air from the floor up and out. I did smoke test it years ago and it does create a nice little current of air.

Wattage can vary according to location and need. In a mild winter I might only use a 60 watt bulb but another time, a 100 watt bulb. Alternatively, a timer can vary the length its' on.

Yes, there's a gap at the bottom to allow for a convection current to form. I'm a little embarrassed to use this photo but it was closest at hand. Pretty grubby, but it works.

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Old 10-17-2014, 08:30 PM   #4
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Surrey B.C., British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 128
I understand the concern for preventing mould and mildew in areas that contain excessive moisture. Leaky boats and trailers are good spots for mould to grow. Particularly boats moored in water as the difference in air and hull temperature would cause condensation. Has anyone with an Escape trailer ever had a mould problem? I ask this because when I first stored the trailer over winter at ETI Reese felt there was enough air movement through an open roof vent. We have not had a mould or mildew problem storing the trailer in the open with the vent open an inch and windows closed. However if I stored the trailer at home I might also hang a low wattage trouble light inside for insurance.
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Old 10-18-2014, 05:20 AM   #5
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: 5.0 TA #6, 2012 F150 EB
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I've had mildew, but it was on my last trailer, not the Escape. 1 year out of 8, it was no fun scrubbing the complete interior, it was on everything. I had left the vent open and the kitchen window cracked figuring airflow was a good thing, the trailer had a Tyvek cover on it. The trailer was about the size of the 21, except better insulated. I do recall entering the trailer one day and finding condensation on all the hard surfaces, don't remember the weather conditions.
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