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Old 12-15-2016, 05:05 PM   #61
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Hi Jerry
NPT stands for national pipe thread and is a tapered thread that will tighten down and hold liquids. This is as opposed to IPT Iron pipe thread that is not tapered and has to seat against a gasket of some type. A set Pipe taps and dies are handy if a lot of plumbing is being done. Everybody should have a friend with a set that can be borrowed. Lots of guys are so protective of a nice set of Rigids that they'll volunteer to come over and chase some threads if needed. While he or she is on the way to your house, your job is to get a 12 ver and get it coolin down.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:47 PM   #62
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While he or she is on the way to your house, your job is to get a 12 ver and get it coolin down.
Dave
..and it needs to be good beer, not any of the near beer stuff like Coors...
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:11 PM   #63
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Ok- I give up. 3/4" npt means that the pipe size is 3/4" trade size. NOT 3/4" overall !
Jerry
Jerry,
I apologize for being a bit "strong" in my response. I really did not think that you were intending to insult anyone with your "mechanically challenged" comment. Actually, I thought it was pretty funny! But I knew you were confused regarding the tap size, and I didn't want any forum member to purchase a 3/4-inch tap only to find it was too small to chase/clean the threads.

I would really like to know how you manage to thread a 3/4-inch nipple into the water heater after removing the anode. I was being honest when I stated that my water heater will empty in 20 seconds even if the pressure relief valve is closed. I wouldn't have time to thread a nipple in before the tank was empty, and even so, I would be drenched if I tried. As Brian stated in a later post, it is a "messy" procedure. My water heater empties smoothly in about 15 seconds if I open the hot water tap on the kitchen sink. I merely let it drain and then dry the bottom of the housing with a paper towel. On the other hand, the water heater for my house drains rather slowly is I open the drain spigot and leave the pressure relief valve closed. So seriously, when you remove the anode with the relief valve closed, the water does not gush out?
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:50 PM   #64
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Mine gushes out pretty fast. I drain it on a hot sunny day when I get back from a trip. Left open and in the sun on a hot driveway she's pretty dry at the end of the day. I have a nice set of dies but no taps. But I can get them any time. My best friend from school spent his career as a sprinkler fitter putting fire suppression systems all over the Midwest. He's my go to plumber guy. If I don't have wet feet in the summer I've got grease on my jeans and under my fingernails. Eric, I only drink two kinds of beer, cold and free and I only ever drink two, the first one and the last one. Mostly hooch around the holidays.
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:56 PM   #65
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Sorry to reopen this thread, but it seems I owe Jerry an apology; he was correct. When you put a caliper on the threads of the anode it measures 1-inch. But as previously stated, that is the approximate outer diameter of a threaded 3/4-inch pipe/nipple. However, NPT taps are labeled for the inside diameter of the pipe, not the outer diameter where the threads are located which is approximately 1-inch. I have 1/2, 3/4, and 1-inch NPT taps, and picked up the wrong tap, the 1-inch, when I "insisted" that it was the size needed to chase/clean the water heater threads.
So anyway, sorry Jerry, you were right and I was definitely wrong. But I will claim that it was the result of either a senior moment or imbibing too many holiday spirits. Still claiming I am not mechanically challenged!✌️
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:13 PM   #66
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Still claiming I am not mechanically challenged!✌️
I first read that as mentally challenged, and was going to agree.
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:16 PM   #67
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I just drained the WH on maintenance and anode needs replacement. Lasted a bit over a year.
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:33 PM   #68
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I just drained the WH on maintenance and anode needs replacement. Lasted a bit over a year.
Strange how water from different regions affect the wear on the rod. I changed mine after 5 years, and likely could have got another year or two out of it.
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:38 PM   #69
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I just drained the WH on maintenance and anode needs replacement. Lasted a bit over a year.
Do you have a picture Greg? I have seen some really bad anodes and was told they were still functional.....
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:42 PM   #70
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Good and bad and mine, still good, after 8 years.
Attached Thumbnails
Good anode bad anode.png   Anode 09 2016.jpg  
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Old 12-22-2016, 07:30 PM   #71
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I first read that as mentally challenged, and was going to agree.
You could very well be right! 😙
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:11 PM   #72
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Do you have a picture Greg? I have seen some really bad anodes and was told they were still functional.....
I'll try and get one Jim, but probably won't be at the trailer for a couple of weeks. I would probably put this one as still functional but not great, but would love to hear your input.
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:50 PM   #73
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As someone politely reminded me here, the anode is strictly sacrificial. It doesn't mean your hot water heater quits working when the anode is toast. If you've pulled the anode during winterizing and it looks bad.. maybe it's time to replace it. But the hot water heater will continue to work... until it doesn't...
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:01 PM   #74
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If you've pulled the anode during winterizing and it looks bad.. maybe it's time to replace it. But the hot water heater will continue to work... until it doesn't...
Yeah, until the tank sacrifices itself. But you're right Donna. It's not an emergency. Just make a note to replace it if you notice severe erosion. All the anode does (besides plugging the drain hole) is extend the tank life.
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