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Old 12-21-2014, 06:38 PM   #21
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No, my build is the closest they come. I told them I was going to a two bank system so they didn't weld on angle iron supports. They still had to sell me a trailer with an operable electrical system so they only bolted them on which saved me from having to cut them off.Ron
But, you're talking about an electrical configuration for an 19', which is totally different for a 21' OR a 5.0TA...
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:45 PM   #22
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Brian, you missed stating the advantage of two 12 V batteries. With two 12 V batteries and a multi-position battery switch you never have all your eggs in one basket. My battery switch is never in the "both" position. In the event of a negative electrical event only one battery will be drained leaving the second normally fully charged battery ready to use.
Right, I didn't state any advantage of two 12V batteries at all... but only because Slickheadhunter didn't ask.

I agree with Ron's description of one advantage of separate banks.

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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
But, you're talking about an electrical configuration for an 19', which is totally different for a 21' OR a 5.0TA...
While the mounting is different in the details, the fundamentals are the same.
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:09 PM   #23
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So it's concidered better as far as battery power supply to have two 6 volt batteries over one 12 volt battery? Wouldn't they be the same?

I knew there was a reason why I'm a machinist and not an electrician!
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:10 PM   #24
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There's another advantage to using dual 6V batteries instead of 12v: they last longer. They can take more discharges and recharges because they have thicker and larger lead plates than their 12 volt counterparts. From Trojan Battery on the same question:

"The main advantage of using two 6 volt batteries connected in series is long life. They generally last about two times longer than 12 volt batteries. This is because 6 volt batteries have bigger and thicker plates that can better withstand the effects of deep cycling."

As was mentioned above, the advantage of 12V is redundancy. Again, from Trojan Battery:

"The main advantage of using two 12 volt batteries connected in parallel is backup. If one battery goes down, you will have the other battery to keep your system running. With two 6 volts, if one goes down then your entire 12 volt system is down."

The capacity is roughly the same if we are talking true deep cycle batteries though. There's no distinct advantage to dual 6V in that case. Again, from Trojan:

"In terms of capacity, if you get a couple of really good 12 volt, group 27 or higher, batteries then the runtime that you'll get out of the two systems is roughly the same."
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:32 PM   #25
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There's another advantage to using dual 6V batteries instead of 12v: they last longer. They can take more discharges and recharges because they have thicker and larger lead plates than their 12 volt counterparts. From Trojan Battery on the same question:

"The main advantage of using two 6 volt batteries connected in series is long life. They generally last about two times longer than 12 volt batteries. This is because 6 volt batteries have bigger and thicker plates that can better withstand the effects of deep cycling."

As was mentioned above, the advantage of 12V is redundancy. Again, from Trojan Battery:

"The main advantage of using two 12 volt batteries connected in parallel is backup. If one battery goes down, you will have the other battery to keep your system running. With two 6 volts, if one goes down then your entire 12 volt system is down."

The capacity is roughly the same if we are talking true deep cycle batteries though. There's no distinct advantage to dual 6V in that case. Again, from Trojan:

"In terms of capacity, if you get a couple of really good 12 volt, group 27 or higher, batteries then the runtime that you'll get out of the two systems is roughly the same."

Thanks for all the great answers!
I have just one more that just came to mind. If I'm camping at one of many state campgrounds in NH that doesn't have electric hookup, roughly, how many days would the duel 6 volt set up last using the furnace at night along with minimal uses other than the furnace?
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:18 PM   #26
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Thanks for all the great answers!
I have just one more that just came to mind. If I'm camping at one of many state campgrounds in NH that doesn't have electric hookup, roughly, how many days would the duel 6 volt set up last using the furnace at night along with minimal uses other than the furnace?
Based solely on what I've heard from others without solar, between 3 and 4 days. The heater is a pretty big draw on electricity.

I'd say if you want to dry camp during seasons when the heater is necessary, you would definitely benefit from solar.
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:22 PM   #27
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Based solely on what I've heard from others without solar, between 3 and 4 days.
I used to get more like 5-6 days when I had a single 6-volt battery in my tent trailer (furnace, lights, pump). Of course my memory could be all washed up, but I really don't remember having to crank up the generator during those times at all (even a little into the fall season).
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:31 PM   #28
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My last trailer had duel 12 volt batteries and I never had an issue with them going dead on a three day outing, i will order the duel 6 and if it's an issue could I switch them out to 12's?
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:41 PM   #29
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My last trailer had duel 12 volt batteries and I never had an issue with them going dead on a three day outing, i will order the duel 6 and if it's an issue could I switch them out to 12's?
You could, but remember that the 12V are larger - and heavier. I think you'll be fine with dual 6's for at least 3-4 days, with the heater running alot - longer if it only runs intermittently. It's going to be your biggest consumer of battery power. If you have the LED lights, they draw much less power than their incandescent counterparts.
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:59 PM   #30
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You could, but remember that the 12V are larger - and heavier. I think you'll be fine with dual 6's for at least 3-4 days, with the heater running alot - longer if it only runs intermittently. It's going to be your biggest consumer of battery power. If you have the LED lights, they draw much less power than their incandescent counterparts.
Thanks!
If the need arises the weight isn't an issue. When I go on a week long hunting trip into paper company land I wouldn't be bothering anyone if I ran a generator to keep the batteries charged.
Awesome! Thanks to all for the help!
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:05 PM   #31
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Only issue with that is you want to be away from camp, hunting, not guarding a generator.
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #32
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I could run it at night to charge the batteries, then store it in my capped truck bed during hunting. I can't remember the last time I saw another person up in northern Maine in November.
The problem with solar up here iis sunlight, it's a commodity in November.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:42 AM   #33
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Since you may already have your generator, I would still get the solar option. With the larger panel you will still get enough charging, even on cloudy days, to keep your batteries charged. After awhile you will probably start leaving the generator and extra fuel at home. I sold my generator once I got solar, never used it.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:09 AM   #34
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Can the solar be had and used without bolting it to the roof? Perhaps set up on its own holder on the ground?
The only hole in the roof that I will tolerate is the maxx fan.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:19 AM   #35
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Since you may already have your generator, I would still get the solar option. With the larger panel you will still get enough charging, even on cloudy days, to keep your batteries charged. After awhile you will probably start leaving the generator and extra fuel at home. I sold my generator once I got solar, never used it.
Invalid, if you lived in the south like me. Here in Florida, the "Sunshine State," solar is not appropriate. Most of the time you need A/C, which means AC, not DC current. Generally, campgrounds with hook-ups or a generator if boondocking. If I had solar, I would sell it because it just wouldn't meet my needs.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:20 AM   #36
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There is no mounting holes, the solar is "glued" to the roof via VHB tape. There is one little hole for the wires to enter, otherwise a hole free install. You have the refer vent as well as 2 sewerage vents and your MaxFan vent already there. Besides with the Escape's build process leaks are almost non existent.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:22 AM   #37
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Invalid, if you lived in the south like me. Here in Florida, the "Sunshine State," solar is not appropriate. Most of the time you need A/C, which means AC, not DC current. Generally, campgrounds with hook-ups or a generator if boondocking. If I had solar, I would sell it because it just wouldn't meet my needs.
I understand your need for air-condtioning as well as 120v living in the humid south, but the op lives in the far north, they may not even have air-conditioning.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:35 AM   #38
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I ordered the 17A, no bathroom or vent, but I didn't realize it wasn't bolted to the roof. I may have another look at it. Then again I already have a generator.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:50 AM   #39
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There is no mounting holes, the solar is "glued" to the roof via VHB tape. There is one little hole for the wires to enter, otherwise a hole free install. You have the refer vent as well as 2 sewerage vents and your MaxFan vent already there. Besides with the Escape's build process leaks are almost non existent.
Reace stopped using VHB tape 2 years ago because a customer had a panel come loose on the road. He now uses a 2 part epoxy to bond the aluminum supports to the fiberglass. I used 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 for 2 of my panels and it is very strong.
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:14 AM   #40
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Can the solar be had and used without bolting it to the roof? Perhaps set up on its own holder on the ground?
The only hole in the roof that I will tolerate is the maxx fan.
As Steve mentioned, the solar panel mounts are epoxied to the roof. You do have the option to have the trailer pre-wired for solar without the panels. You can specify where the wiring is terminated. The terminations are simple MC4 connectors, which are compatible with most panels. Later, you could purchase portable panels as many on the forum have done, and simply plug them in. An obvious advantage is that you can aim the panels at the little bit of sun you have, which greatly increases their output.
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