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Old 12-22-2014, 09:59 AM   #41
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I would assume the solar ready means the connections are on the roof for future solar panels there. This may not be the preferred location for plug in movable panels. Check with ETI what your choices are. Roof or side or both?
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:26 AM   #42
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One difference that may be worth pointing out - most 12V batteries are not true deep cycle; they are either designed for starting automobiles, or mixed use for boats. Even the dual purpose marine 12V batteries will not preform as well as a true deep cycle battery under typical RV usage.

There are true deep cycle 12V batteries such as Trojan's T-1275 12V. It is a 150 amp hour, 85 pound battery. 2 would give you 300 amp hours; more than a pair of typical 6V deep cycle batteries at a bit more weight, but they list for $499.99 each. I've seen them for as little as $220, but that is still going to be more than a pair of Interstate GC2-XHD Flooded Lead Acid 6V batteries weighing 67 lbs, listed at $176.95 & typically sold for around $150.00. (the ones supplied by Escape). You would have a bit more capacity (300 amp hours vs 232 amp hours) with the pair of 12V batteries, but at a much higher cost, and more weight.

You can even purchase a 12V deep cycle battery that matches a pair of 6V in one case - a T8D-AGM 12V Group 8D provides 230 amp hours, however at $829.95 list price and 158 pounds. It is also much larger than most battery boxes. The price comparisons are not quite fair since the 2 12V batteries I described are AGM technology which is more expensive that the flooded cell technology used in the Interstate 6V, but the reality is a pair of 6V batteries is the least expensive way to get true deep cycle large capacity storage.

One very basic method of comparing batteries is by weight. Heavier lead acid batteries will almost always provide more storage than lighter ones. A pair of 6V batteries may weigh a bit more than a single 12V with the same amp hour capacity, but most of the difference will be the case, terminals, etc that is doubled with the 6V batteries. If you use the amp hours at 12V of either a pair of 6V or a single 12V (or even 6 2V batteries), you will find the weight for the same number of amp hours is about the same.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:36 PM   #43
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... I used 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 for 2 of my panels and it is very strong.
I can second 5200! Used it for a number of years on my boat. Even for one application where I needed to attach two pieces of stainless steel, in place of welding. Better than epoxy in some cases because it stays somewhat flexible and can absorb stress from motion or heat expansion. But - if you go that route, remember two things. It is permanent and it takes a minimum of 7 days to harden.

Regarding possible advantages of two 12v batteries, vs two 6v batteries: With proper switching it should be possible to charge one battery while using the other. In that arrangement the 14.7 charging volts (after the "bulk" phase) will not be imposed on the electrical system. I worry about delicate 12v electronics that may only be rated up to 13.8v (common for auto charging). Also, if it became necessary to run a big inverter for the microwave, switching the batteries to the "both" position will split the current drain 50/50, reducing voltage drop. (Rather extreme example admittedly.)

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Old 12-22-2014, 03:36 PM   #44
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I would assume the solar ready means the connections are on the roof for future solar panels there. This may not be the preferred location for plug in movable panels. Check with ETI what your choices are. Roof or side or both?
They'll terminate them on the side if you want Jim -- I asked, before we eventually decided to just get the solar and be done with it.

Actually, if you think about it, it's easier to build that way. Puts the wiring closer to where it connects to the electrical system.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:50 PM   #45
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Invalid, if you lived in the south like me. Here in Florida, the "Sunshine State," solar is not appropriate. Most of the time you need A/C....
Here's something to think about: before RVs had air conditioning, is it true that no one used an RV (travel trailer or otherwise) in Florida? Now that there is A/C, is every RV in use in Florida plugged in at a serviced site or running a generator?


If you have no use for power in an unserviced location, then I can certainly see skipping the solar option.
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:12 PM   #46
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Here's something to think about: before RVs had air conditioning, is it true that no one used an RV (travel trailer or otherwise) in Florida? Now that there is A/C, is every RV in use in Florida plugged in at a serviced site or running a generator?


If you have no use for power in an unserviced location, then I can certainly see skipping the solar option.
Yeah, I was going to say something about that, but Carl obviously knows his camping style, and it's largely personal preference. The weather in His part of Florida (temperature wise) is kind of like San Antonio -- there's about a 4 month period where AC is probably a must. The rest of the year I think would be just fine without AC, and solar would be a great thing to have.
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:21 PM   #47
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... Carl obviously knows his camping style, and it's largely personal preference.
Absolutely! Others may have different preferences, even in the same climate.
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:31 PM   #48
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I can second 5200! Used it for a number of years on my boat. Even for one application where I needed to attach two pieces of stainless steel, in place of welding. Better than epoxy in some cases because it stays somewhat flexible and can absorb stress from motion or heat expansion. But - if you go that route, remember two things. It is permanent and it takes a minimum of 7 days to harden.

Regarding possible advantages of two 12v batteries, vs two 6v batteries: With proper switching it should be possible to charge one battery while using the other. In that arrangement the 14.7 charging volts (after the "bulk" phase) will not be imposed on the electrical system. I worry about delicate 12v electronics that may only be rated up to 13.8v (common for auto charging). Also, if it became necessary to run a big inverter for the microwave, switching the batteries to the "both" position will split the current drain 50/50, reducing voltage drop. (Rather extreme example admittedly.)

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Old 12-22-2014, 04:52 PM   #49
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I picked up a tube of the 5200 but chickened out when I went to attach the aluminum tubing, went with thickened epoxy as I'm familiar with it from boat building.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:18 PM   #50
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Also, if it became necessary to run a big inverter for the microwave, switching the batteries to the "both" position will split the current drain 50/50, reducing voltage drop. (Rather extreme example admittedly.)
It can't be all that wild an idea, since there are switches made to allow this sort of thing:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS 350A Compact Battery Switches | West Marine
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:44 PM   #51
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It can't be all that wild an idea, since there are switches made to allow this sort of thing:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS 350A Compact Battery Switches | West Marine
Not a wild idea at all. On our boat (ancient history) we used a switch like that. Mainly for emergencies when a single battery wouldn't turn over the diesel engine in cold weather.

Since I'll be outfitting our Escape with 2 12v SLA batteries, one of those switches is on the "buy" list. (Along with a long list of pricy goodies that for reasons my wife doesn't totally understand, we must have. )

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Old 12-22-2014, 06:05 PM   #52
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It can't be all that wild an idea, since there are switches made to allow this sort of thing:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS 350A Compact Battery Switches | West Marine
Like this?

I've used my 1500 watt inverter with only one battery and it works fine for that kind of short term use. But, yes, it is a big draw and if it gets to setting off the alarm then I'd switch to "both" for sure.

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Old 12-22-2014, 06:43 PM   #53
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Yep. Not having A/C in Florida for a certain portion of the year would be like not having a furnace in the Yukon in February. And I have camped without A/C in the summer and it's not my idea of fun. That's why I would rather have my Honda 2000 instead of solar. But when temperatures are appropriate, I would rather run a roof vent and open windows. I rarely boondock, so I do not have a problem with keeping the battery charged. For us, the trailer is a rolling bedroom. We go somewhere, set up, then take off and see the local sights. About the only time I really go "camping" and spend a lot of time hanging around the campsite is when we attend a rally such as Scamp Camp, etc. While we do have open spaces in the east, it is far different from the vast open spaces found in the western parts of North America. That, to a degree, determines camping style and equipment needs. I believe if I lived in Montana or BC, I would be more likely to jump on the solar bandwagon.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:04 PM   #54
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Here's something to think about: before RVs had air conditioning, is it true that no one used an RV (travel trailer or otherwise) in Florida? Now that there is A/C, is every RV in use in Florida plugged in at a serviced site or running a generator
Easy to address that one Brian, by answering a question with another question:
When it is minus 40 in Alberta and the wind is blowing, where are most of the campers set up? Try to imagine temperatures AND humidity in the 90s. Perhaps the temperature drops to the mid 80s by midnight or 1 am. There are two types of campers in Florida in the summer, those plugged in at a serviced site or running a generator, and those that wished they had A/C and were plugged in at a serviced site, or that they could afford a generator. Come to Florida in the winter and you have to be lucky to find a campsite on a moments notice, come in the summer and the campgrounds have plenty of vacant sites.

Oh, the answer to the question is that the campers are probably in storage because most people in their right mind do not find camping pleasant when they are either freezing their butts off or sweating them off. In Alberta you winterize your camper unless you are a snow bird and head to a warmer climate, in the south we summarize (park and store) our campers unless we have A/C or we are heading north in search of cooler temperatures.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:30 PM   #55
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Great examples of camping options, Carl.

In FiberglassRV, I've noticed a few owners from hot areas describing their camping season as being everything except the hottest months, just as most around here don't have trailers suited to winter (which is more of a matter of insulation and plumbing features than a furnace) and may camp in all but the coldest months.

Lots of options for camping style, just as there are lots of options for Escape equipment.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #56
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Alan I use the rapid cure version which is good to travel in about 24 hours.
I got curious about this stuff, and what options there are in the product line. Looks like a variety of choices. See this 3M pdf:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/3...400-5507-1.pdf
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:21 PM   #57
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in the south we summarize (park and store) our campers unless we have A/C or we are heading north in search of cooler temperatures.
Or, as a person in Louisiana once said to me to explain the heat and humidity situation, "Where you live it rains outdoors......"

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