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Old 01-05-2019, 11:24 AM   #1
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Blow out plug

If you winterize with compressed air you need a blow out plug to put on your city water inlet. Yes you can buy one, but where is the fun in that. It also does not have the restriction that the Camco version has.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...1709/300095988

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2289/207176817

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...2100/305172074

I made this as a gift to my neighbor for his motorhome.
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File Type: jpg 5C7CBCEA-F196-4BAB-8435-17D9367770A3.jpg (95.3 KB, 15 views)
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Old 01-05-2019, 11:44 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
If you winterize with compressed air you need a blow out plug to put on your city water inlet. Yes you can buy one, but where is the fun in that. It also does not have the restriction that the Camco version has.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...1709/300095988



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2289/207176817



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...2100/305172074



I made this as a gift to my neighbor for his motorhome.


What is the restriction of the Camco blowout plug, and which one do you refer to, this one
IMG_0446.jpg
Or this one
IMG_0447.jpg
Both are Camco.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:35 PM   #3
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What is the restriction of the Camco blowout plug, and which one do you refer to, this one
Attachment 36145
Or this one
Attachment 36146
Both are Camco.
Referring to this one. Why the huge restriction at the tip? I want the most flow I can get.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-C.../dp/B002XL2IEA
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:38 PM   #4
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http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/at...5&d=1546706585

I have this one (or something similar). I’ve seen a plastic plug which I sometimes wonder if it would be better since I’m screwing the plug into plastic on the Escape and don’t want the brass threads to wreck the plastic intake
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:47 PM   #5
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Similar except I used a plastic hose cap from my drip irrigation spares and added a shutoff as the trailer is pretty far off from the compressor/regulator.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:48 PM   #6
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Referring to this one. Why the huge restriction at the tip? I want the most flow I can get.



https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-C.../dp/B002XL2IEA

Ah, I thought you meant there was some restriction on the plug’s usability, not physical restriction of the air channel. I’ll have to look at mine closer next time I use it. Maybe it can be drilled out a bit?
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:51 PM   #7
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I've drilled them out before with no ill effects, no idea why the restriction is there.
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:15 PM   #8
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Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:38 PM   #9
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The white plastic version of the Camco plug has a cross hatch grid inside the opening. Same type of restriction. I drilled it out and now cannot use the tire inflater adapter (schrader type). The cross hatching is what depresses the air release inside the inflater.

Fortunately, another trigger type adapter I have works quite well. For the one or two uses per year it was not worth much time on my part. For others it may get used more frequently.
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Old 01-05-2019, 02:10 PM   #10
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This is what I use and like having the shut off handle at the trailer connection.
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Old 01-05-2019, 02:17 PM   #11
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Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?

Be sure to either use your normal pressure regulator, or adjust compressor pressure if adjustable, to avoid overpressure damage to your water lines.
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Old 01-05-2019, 03:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
I’ve seen a plastic plug which I sometimes wonder if it would be better since I’m screwing the plug into plastic on the Escape and don’t want the brass threads to wreck the plastic intake
Valid point. Older trailers like ours have a metal city water connection. This is behind a lockable door. When Escape made the change to the newer style city water connector it went to plastic.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
Greg: At 41:53 in the Escape Orientation video he shows how it is done when using compressed air. Just as you describe.

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Old 01-06-2019, 08:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
The issue with the toilet valve was when Escape was using the low point drain, that this valve did not clear using gravitational flow. No problem with either air or antifreeze.
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:42 AM   #15
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The issue with the toilet valve was when Escape was using the low point drain, that this valve did not clear using gravitational flow. No problem with either air or antifreeze.
Yes thanks Jim for the clarification.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:08 PM   #16
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Thanks, Dave and Jim info helps a non-winterizer a lot. I'll have to start winterizing some in about two years, so never to early to start learning the ins and outs.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:34 PM   #17
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Thanks, Dave and Jim info helps a non-winterizer a lot. I'll have to start winterizing some in about two years, so never to early to start learning the ins and outs.
Greg, you’ll never need to winterize at 70*
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:48 AM   #18
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I'm going to winterize for the first time (moving to colder climate) and am a little confused with one of the steps in the Escape video; why do you by-pass the hot water tank if you drain all the water out of the system? It seems like you can just leave the valves open and blow out all the lines (after you drained the hot water tank) and you should be good. I'm a little nervous that I would turn on the tank without water since it was by-passed. I know you can tag the switch but the tag can fall off/get removed by mistake.

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Old 01-08-2019, 10:02 AM   #19
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I'm going to winterize for the first time (moving to colder climate) and am a little confused with one of the steps in the Escape video; why do you by-pass the hot water tank if you drain all the water out of the system? It seems like you can just leave the valves open and blow out all the lines (after you drained the hot water tank) and you should be good. I'm a little nervous that I would turn on the tank without water since it was by-passed. I know you can tag the switch but the tag can fall off/get removed by mistake.

Ben
When storing the trailer you will want to drain the water heater as leaving it full during storage will accelerate aging process. By passing the water heater keeps from filling the water heater with RV antifreeze. If using only air to winterize and you do not by pass the water heater the air will just flow out the water heater drain unless you reinstall the anode rod and then you will pressurize the water heater. Always good to store the RV with the Water Heater empty and the anode rod removed.


Also, always good to flush the water heater with flush wand.
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:34 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btroxell View Post
I'm going to winterize for the first time (moving to colder climate) and am a little confused with one of the steps in the Escape video; why do you by-pass the hot water tank if you drain all the water out of the system? It seems like you can just leave the valves open and blow out all the lines (after you drained the hot water tank) and you should be good. I'm a little nervous that I would turn on the tank without water since it was by-passed. I know you can tag the switch but the tag can fall off/get removed by mistake.
Quote:
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If using only air to winterize and you do not by pass the water heater the air will just flow out the water heater drain unless you reinstall the anode rod and then you will pressurize the water heater. Always good to store the RV with the Water Heater empty and the anode rod removed.
If you have the anode out and the bypass is not engaged then you will be blowing a lot of your air out of the water heater instead of your faucets. Depending on the size of your compressor this could be an issue. I recently did a motorhome with the drain valve removed and I didn't have good pressure at the faucets until I bypassed the water heater. After you are done winterizing with compressed air there is nothing keeping you from flipping the water heater bypass valves back to the normal position to be ready for Spring. Personally I don't see a problem with keeping the anode in an empty tank.

(The only concern with the anode is with corrosion from antifreeze in which case you either bypass the hot water heater or in the case of not having bypass fill the hot water heater (6 gallons!) and replace the anode with a plug. This is why compressed air is used or antifreeze with a hot water heater bypass.)
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