Busting the toilet valve - Page 3

Greg A · 05-12-2016, 05:53 PM

I was able to change my toilet valve on my 17B without removing the toilet. Took about a half hour. I watched the youtube videos and went through the instructions quite a bit before I went after it, so I'd know exactly where everything was located that I needed to remove/unscrew. It was actually quite simple and while it is a bit cramped it's certainly doable without much extra effort.

medora · 05-12-2016, 05:58 PM

Greg, that's encouraging -- I probably missed it (I'm coming to the party late, apologies), I didn't even realize there were YouTube videos. I'll look around. If there's one that was particularly helpful I'd be grateful for a headsup.

Brian B-P · 05-12-2016, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Thetford is the only game in town, right? I'm always amazed these companies somehow keep going with components that are bound to fail -- and fail quickly.

Not quite - for conventional gravity flush toilets there's also Dometic. There are also other designs (cassette, macerating, composting, etc.). For the Escape installation, which is similar to other compact low-profile trailers, the toilet must be short to sit on top of the tank, because the tank is on top of the floor - that limits choice.

A choice of suppliers for the same market doesn't necessarily mean that others are any better.

I don't know about "bound to fail": I have not had a failure of this valve in our Dometic Sealand several years of frequent use.

medora · 05-13-2016, 10:43 AM

Here's what Reace said when we asked him about the install:

"Replacing the valve on the toilet is the easy part. Getting the toilet off and back on is the challenge. You will most likely need to cut the water line to the toilet under the bench seat behind the toilet. Remove the toilet and re-crimp the water line back together.

I would recommend taking it in to a service center to have it changed."

I'll still look for the YouTube videos to see if we can swing it, but ...

thoer · 05-13-2016, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Here's what Reace said when we asked him about the install:

"Replacing the valve on the toilet is the easy part. Getting the toilet off and back on is the challenge. You will most likely need to cut the water line to the toilet under the bench seat behind the toilet. Remove the toilet and re-crimp the water line back together.

I would recommend taking it in to a service center to have it changed."

I'll still look for the YouTube videos to see if we can swing it, but ...

E cutting the supply water line makes the perfect opportunity to put in a shut off valve. The one like Myron shows somewhere can be installed without a PEX tool.

medora · 05-13-2016, 10:51 AM

Eric, Reace said the shut off valve won't help with the winterization -- so is there another benefit?

thoer · 05-13-2016, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Eric, Reace said the shut off valve won't help with the winterization -- so is there another benefit?

If that toilet valve starts leaking while you are out camping, you can shut off the water to the toilet and still keep camping. Just pour water in to flush.

Jim Bennett · 05-13-2016, 10:55 AM

When I had to change the valve in my 19, I cut the supply line on the other side of the wall to remove the toilet. I also crimped on an inline valve, the benefit with it being able to shut off the water in case of another problem, while leaving the water supply on to the rest of the trailer. Toilets can be flushed with water from a jug if needed.

Greg A · 05-13-2016, 11:19 AM

Not sure why they are saying you have to cut the supply line to remove toilet or valve. My 05 17b the supply line was simply unscrewed from the toilet valve with the line to the toilet bowl being pushed on. Simple to remove the supply line. Did ETI change to some kind of permanent crimp to the valve that requires the line to now be cut?

Not the best video, but this is the exact valve and setup that was on mine.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tz2iiGidJg

I left the toilet in place and removed the seat which gave more access.
There are quite a few more videos on YouTube as well.

FMLNM · 05-13-2016, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg A

Not sure why they are saying you have to cut the supply line to remove toilet or valve. My 05 17b the supply line was simply unscrewed on the toilet valve with the line to the toilet bowl being pushed on. Simple to remove the supply line. Did ETI change to some kind of permanent crimp to the valve that requires the line to now be cut?

In some models/years there is virtually no space to get your hand in behind the toilet to undo the connectors. Believe me, my husband and I both tried and my hands are pretty small!

FMLNM · 05-13-2016, 11:44 AM

We had to cut the line in the landing gear hatch. Then used SharkBite connectors (see brass elbow fitting towards the back in photo) so it would be easy to disconnect it again if need be.

We had already installed the shutoff valve after learning its value the hard way in a previous trailer - very useful!!

Greg A · 05-13-2016, 11:45 AM

Yes, Fran n Dave, I can only confirm the 17b can be done. 19 looks possible, but hopefully I won't have to find out. I've heard the 5.0 has to be removed.

MyronL · 05-13-2016, 11:51 AM

"Not sure why they are saying you have to cut the supply line to remove toilet or valve. My 05 17b the supply line was simply unscrewed on the toilet valve with the line to the toilet bowl being pushed on."

That's also got me scratching my head. The feed hand-unscrews at the valve. Not easy, but reachable. Doubt Thetford actually changed their valve design there.

When I installed my shut-off valve on the other side of the wall I cut the PEX with a hacksaw, then used some sandpaper to clean up the frayed ends. A PEX cutter just does the job neater.

Regarding winterization I don't turn my shut off off until I'm sure water in the lines are as blown out as can be, and/or I pump in some antifreeze.

medora · 05-19-2016, 09:44 AM

Hypothetically -- if we end up taking our trailer in for this repair (we talked to Reace again and this job is likely above our pay grade, requires cutting the line, removing the john, etc etc) -- it seems like many of you would vouch for getting the shutoff valve put on for safety's sake because of the finicky nature of this valve. Correct?

FMLNM · 05-19-2016, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Hypothetically -- if we end up taking our trailer in for this repair (we talked to Reace again and this job is likely above our pay grade, requires cutting the line, removing the john, etc etc) -- it seems like many of you would vouch for getting the shutoff valve put on for safety's sake because of the finicky nature of this valve. Correct?

I would absolutely have it done. It's cheap and easy and s**t happens - at the most inopportune times!!

medora · 05-19-2016, 10:27 AM

Roger that. And thanks. We're not so technically gifted over here, a little slow on the fix-it front, so we're grateful for all your help and support.

FMLNM · 05-19-2016, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Roger that. And thanks. We're not so technically gifted over here, a little slow on the fix-it front, so we're grateful for all your help and support.

Hang in there. Over time it will get less intimidating. You can augment the support you get here with YouTube videos and a good local hardware store with friendly staff. Before you know it you will be feeling quite competent!

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