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Old 11-17-2015, 10:55 AM   #11
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It is from my pre-Escape life; had bought an old ('86) Scamp with serious leakage-damage issues everywhere. A great learning experience but never again.
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:26 AM   #12
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I have heard a lot of good things about Eternabond, a very sticky tape that is supposed to prevent leaks. The downside is that it comes as a roll of tape that is 2" wide, so would be difficult to put around a circular surface. (A local trailer supply in the Sacramento area will sell it by the foot.) I have just tried a small piece on a dog waterbed mattress that was literally coming apart at the seams. So far it is preventing water leakage. It supposedly is good for 25 years and I am thinking of applying it around the rectangular items on the roof. It can be removed, but it isn't easy, I'm told.
Because it has worked on part of the bed (I wanted to see if it worked before I bought more, as it isn't cheap.), I'm going to get more to finish.
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:19 PM   #13
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Inspect and repair as needed.
That's what I'm asking. Look for what ( beyond the obvious )?
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:30 PM   #14
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Coming from a marine background I find the whole concept of relying on face sealing and globbed on caulking patched with more caulking to be revolting.

Look at the deck of a yacht. Do you see cowl vents, hatches etc. waterproofed with globbed on caulk? No, most items have a compression gasket that works very well. Even to the point where a wall of green water smashing down on them doesn't cause any leaks.

Really, patching face sealed caulking by smearing on more caulking, bush league.

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Old 11-17-2015, 12:31 PM   #15
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That's what I'm asking. Look for what ( beyond the obvious )?
I'm not expert, but I look carefully for cracks and signs of the caulk edges coming loose. If in doubt I assume its bad. I get a sharp razor knife and carefully cut off the old caulk, and if necessary carefully scrape off what remains on the surface with a flat razor knife. Then I clean it with mineral spirits, let it dry a bit and put on a new bead. From my experience, even the very best caulks don't have anywhere near the lifespan the manufacturers claim. I've had to redo the front window a couple of times as it seems to flex enough that the caulk invariably comes loose over time and driving thru rainstorm ties to push water thru those seams.
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:39 PM   #16
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What Ron said.
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:47 PM   #17
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That's what I'm asking. Look for what ( beyond the obvious )?
Would think that unless something has shifted it would be all good ....
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:28 PM   #18
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Not a big fan of caulk here, definitely never silicone. If one must caulk then the 3M Marine 5200 or the proflex that ETI uses would be my choice. Most of these items like vents, windows, etc. should be using butyl tape which when properly applied should last 10+ years. If I have a vent, window or some such that is starting to leak or is suspect, I pull the vent, clean thoroughly, reapply the butyl tape then reset it. The 17B I had was set or redone when I first had it with all butyl and no caulk, so there was never any caulk to inspect.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:28 PM   #19
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I look for any cracks that may allow water. The issue with gaskets is replacement, one either replaces a gasket or recaulks, your choice. Or, remove and reset with butyl tape, you still have caulk along the top as the windows were done.
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Old 11-17-2015, 03:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I look for any cracks that may allow water. The issue with gaskets is replacement, one either replaces a gasket or recaulks, your choice. Or, remove and reset with butyl tape, you still have caulk along the top as the windows were done.
Is the clear on the window tops proflex as well?
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