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Old 12-28-2019, 06:37 PM   #1
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Caulking and sealant maintenance!

All - I am about to pick up a new 19’. I have studied this forum carefully, and there are a number of references over the past couple of years to poorly sealed areas around vents, bathroom fan, maxxfan, exterior lights, furnace vents, & fridge vents. In those posts there are references to several products to use. Would anyone with experience in these matters be able to recommend the best product (and process) to ensure the initial sealing was done properly and to maintain it? Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2019, 06:46 PM   #2
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When you pick up, mention this concern and then go over the trailer with ETI. They can tell you what to use where at that time. Different caulks for different purposes.

My 17B hasn't leaked anywhere. I had ETI check caulking after some eight years.
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:08 PM   #3
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As Glenn notes, caulk products vary with where caulk is needed. Inspection after pickup and some usage is visual. I like the products Proflex and Lexel. Proflex in white is a good choice and Lexel in clear or white is good too. Many people do not use silicone. It is very hard to remove once dry. If there is a flat surface with some width say 1/2 inch or greater Butyl tape
Is often used. It’s some sticky stuff but works well.


On the Proflex,
Once opened you often only use a small part of the tube pushed by a caulk gun. Try as you will the caulk will get stiff before you use it again. And there goes $10. Screws in the end, tape, whatever. HOWEVER. If you have a vacuum Food Saver, seal the tube in a bag after putting some tape over the end. I got 3 years out of my current tube and it’s ready for spring.
YMMV ( As Donna Says)
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:10 PM   #4
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In the past ProflexRV was used on the sides, and Dicor self leveling Lap Sealant on the roof.
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:15 PM   #5
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Great tips all - thanks! Pro flex sounds like the main solution (love the vacuum seal tip Dave!). It sounds like the self-leveling stuff is a solution for level surfaces (on the roof) such as the screws for the fan? Much appreciated all!
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:30 PM   #6
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Five plus years later, the only caulk that has 'let go' on Ten Forward was the long upper tail lights. I replied with SikiaFlex 220. (ETI no longer puts those lights on builds) Every Spring, ALL areas caulked get the 'once over.' So far, everything is good to go. although I'm expecting the three 'vents' on the roof will require removal and rebedding eventually. When that happens, I'll follow the 'best practice' which starts with removing the 'vent' thoroughly cleaning both the roof and 'vent,' then reapplying butyl and appropriate caulk,
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Old 12-28-2019, 08:04 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Five plus years later, the only caulk that has 'let go' on Ten Forward was the long upper tail lights. I replied with SikiaFlex 220. (ETI no longer puts those lights on builds) Every Spring, ALL areas caulked get the 'once over.' So far, everything is good to go. although I'm expecting the three 'vents' on the roof will require removal and rebedding eventually. When that happens, I'll follow the 'best practice' which starts with removing the 'vent' thoroughly cleaning both the roof and 'vent,' then reapplying butyl and appropriate caulk,
Had to do above the emergency window today, the caulk was sort of pealing back. Don't know how necessary it is to caulk the window tops, they still have what looks like butyl sealing around them. Might be worth checking. The rest are fine.
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Old 12-28-2019, 08:29 PM   #8
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Had to do above the emergency window today, the caulk was sort of pealing back. Don't know how necessary it is to caulk the window tops, they still have what looks like butyl sealing around them. Might be worth checking. The rest are fine.
Thanks Bob for the info. When I wash Ten Forward I kinda get up close and personal with all the side vents and windows because I use a 'toothbrush' to clean around the area. Of all the things ETI has done, I'm sorry the vent/window caulk isn't black. They used 'clear' which was only clear for about six months... now it's kinda a brown, green ugly stuff. Black would have looked better long term...
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:08 PM   #9
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I believe the tops of the windows had some clear sealant, same as over the tail and clearance lights. With the black strip over the frameless not sure how to address. May have to ask Dave at Escape what they recommend.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:23 PM   #10
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I believe the tops of the windows had some clear sealant, same as over the tail and clearance lights. With the black strip over the frameless not sure how to address. May have to ask Dave at Escape what they recommend.
I’d be curious on the frameless windows too. Is the general rule to remove all the existing caulking before re-applying? If so, how does one best do that?
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:31 PM   #11
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I'd relax. Stop worrying about caulk.
You'll need it eventually, but if you buy it now it will be solid and of no use when you finally need it ( even if you don't open the tube ).
Just make a note of caulks and their use. I keep a log and have a binder with plastic sleeves for all the manuals. Even Merritt has a Lordco and a Wallmart.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:38 PM   #12
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I'd relax. Stop worrying about caulk.
[emoji106][emoji106]

Exactly. My trailer is almost 5 years old now, and the caulk is fine. Why fret over something that likely won't be a problem for some time?
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:38 PM   #13
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I'd relax. Stop worrying about caulk.
You'll need it eventually, but if you buy it now it will be solid and of no use when you finally need it ( even if you don't open the tube ).
Just make a note of caulks and their use. I keep a log and have a binder with plastic sleeves for all the manuals. Even Merritt has a Lordco and a Wallmart.
Good advice and reminder - just take notes, get smart, and learn what to watch for. One thing about reading this forum in detail is you can get overly concerned about the multiplicity of potential issues.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:13 PM   #14
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My daughter calls a lot of this stuff "first world problems".
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Old 03-18-2022, 06:28 PM   #15
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Unhappy ETI using SILICONE??

I got an email from ETI today and clicked on their article entitled, "Azdel Composite Panels vs Fiberglass One Piece". It it they say,glass
How does maintenance differ between Azdel & fiberglass?

The best way to describe the maintenance differences between these two RV constructions is simple; stick-built trailers require reactive maintenance, whereas one-piece trailers require proactive maintenance.
In other words, a leak in a stick-built trailer isn’t obvious until you see the water pool inside the trailer. Once found, you have to react, find the leak, and fix it. Azdel will ensure that the leak doesn’t saturate the wood walls and cause mold, but doesn’t eliminate the key issues with panel-built construction. Rejoining panels, resealing roofs, and cutting out/replacing rotted pieces from the roof or floor are just a few of the potential issues in a stick-built trailer with Azdel panels.
One-piece trailers, however, require little annual maintenance on the shell (a wax once per year is the bulk of the work). Every 5-7 years, owners simply check the silicone seals around the windows, air conditioners, etc. and reseal if needed.
What's the story on "checking the silicone seals," anyway? Have they switched from Proflex and Dicor to fiberglass' nasty enemy, silicone?


I also noted a statement that FG "is easily repaired if it gets cracked, chipped, or broken." I am not sure just how "easy" it is for the average trailer owner to repair and refinish damage so that it doesn't look half-arsed; boat repair shops get some pretty good fees for this type of work, after all. One-Piece
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Old 03-18-2022, 06:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike G View Post
I got an email from ETI today and clicked on their article entitled, "Azdel Composite Panels vs Fiberglass One Piece". It it they say,glass
How does maintenance differ between Azdel & fiberglass?

The best way to describe the maintenance differences between these two RV constructions is simple; stick-built trailers require reactive maintenance, whereas one-piece trailers require proactive maintenance.
In other words, a leak in a stick-built trailer isn’t obvious until you see the water pool inside the trailer. Once found, you have to react, find the leak, and fix it. Azdel will ensure that the leak doesn’t saturate the wood walls and cause mold, but doesn’t eliminate the key issues with panel-built construction. Rejoining panels, resealing roofs, and cutting out/replacing rotted pieces from the roof or floor are just a few of the potential issues in a stick-built trailer with Azdel panels.
One-piece trailers, however, require little annual maintenance on the shell (a wax once per year is the bulk of the work). Every 5-7 years, owners simply check the silicone seals around the windows, air conditioners, etc. and reseal if needed.
What's the story on "checking the silicone seals," anyway? Have they switched from Proflex and Dicor to fiberglass' nasty enemy, silicone?


I also noted a statement that FG "is easily repaired if it gets cracked, chipped, or broken." I am not sure just how "easy" it is for the average trailer owner to repair and refinish damage so that it doesn't look half-arsed; boat repair shops get some pretty good fees for this type of work, after all. One-Piece
whats the preferred goop for on the roof? Dicor or proflex or ?. I need to install Houghton AC next month
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Old 04-13-2022, 03:45 PM   #17
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I was checking the caulking on my 2015 Escape 21 and saw that there is a slight crack between the caulking and the vent fixture. I think it is Proflex, and if so do I need to remove it to seal the crack or can I just clean it with isopropyl alcohol and reseal on top of the old stuff.

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Old 04-13-2022, 05:35 PM   #18
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My experience has been that you can usually tell by picking at the sealant with a finger nail how firmly it is adhered. If it at all seems loose you should be able to remove the loose part quite easily. Anything that seems like it is firmly stuck on just leave it. Then you can put new sealant over top. From the look of your photo my guess is a lot of that will come off easily.
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:42 PM   #19
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By the way, when people talk about "Butyl Tape" what exactly are you using? I've used this eternabond double stick product before. 60 mil thickness and like most eternabond goods it really sticks.

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15343
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Old 04-13-2022, 09:12 PM   #20
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Thanks Fender. It seems that it is firmly adhered to the gel coat and I would have to either cut or scrape it off. I think I will clean off the gap area with isopropyl alcohol and then put a narrow bead over it. This caulking is supposed to adhere to itself, but I just needed some reassurance that it was okay in this situation.

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