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Old 10-19-2015, 10:52 AM   #1
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Electrical winterization

This posting is asking about how to electrically winterize my 2015 Escape 21. The set up done by ETI has two 6-volt batteries and the standard WFCO WF-8900 distribution center. The trailer is covered and has continuous electrical power hooked up. Temperatures here in North River NY can get to 10 to 20 below or so F. for a week or so at times with 10 to zero for longer periods. If possible I would like to leave the batteries in place rather than bring them inside.

So my thoughts go down several scenarios. One is to just allow the 8900 to trickle charge the batteries all winter. Second idea is to purchase a battery tender which appears to have a lower amperage output, 0.75amp, and put that on a 24 hour timer switch and have it on the minimum time per 24 hours, which is about 30 minutes. My thinking is that would reduce the over charging. In both cases I would put a light bulb or two next to battery box to reduce the worst chill.

Even tho I read ETI suggestions in the owners manual, what would you suggest? By itself would the 8900 work or prematurely cause some performance degradation or would a lower amp. charger on a timer be better? Is the small added heat really necessary? Or should I just bite the bullet and bring the heavy batteries inside? Thanks in advance for you responses.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:03 AM   #2
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Hi Patrol,

Reace has said often that the WFCO is fine for leaving plugged in at all times. It will just deliver essentially a maintenance charge and should never overcharge your batteries. My understanding (and I am surely not claiming to be any expert on any of this) is that the main problems people have with the WFCO is that under load, it lets the batteries drain too low before going into deeper charging routines, and that it doesn't deliver a large enough voltage in an equalization charge cycle to prevent sulfation. Neither of those should be a problem in long term storage for new batteries like yours in my opinion. (I am sure you will hear more here about the problems associated with the WFCOs.)

I bought an expensive external BatteryMinder maintainer that I use during storage, because my batteries are over 5 years old and I wanted to see if using it in storage could help cure/prevent sulfation, as they claim it will on their website. I was attracted to their lower voltage desulfation method, but it could be snake oil.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:14 AM   #3
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I set my portable solar power panels out and connected, to keep my batteries charged all through the winter months. No worries so far. Of course, brutal snow storms are not the norm here.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:24 AM   #4
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On our third winter with trailer plugged in to keep dual 6's charged and to supply power for the small heater plugged into a thermal plug to kick it on at 30 and off at 50. Batteries still going fine.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:32 PM   #5
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Mine is plugged in while in storage, I occasionally remove snow but allow the converter and solar keep the batteries happy. I also leave a 600 watt oil filled heater on. Keep the unit at freezing 32 when it gets down to 10-15. Remember wind chill has not effect on inanimate objects.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:36 PM   #6
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I don't get it. How does the solar affect charge if the trailer is plugged in for the oil-filled heater? Isn't AC keeping the batteries up?
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:38 PM   #7
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Yes...but I can not turn off the solar.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:22 PM   #8
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2 winters in Ottawa, with the mains plugged in to maintain the battery. No overcharging issues at all -- just last week I looked at the battery water levels (for the first time in 3 seasons of use) and they were fine.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol35 View Post
Second idea is to purchase a battery tender which appears to have a lower amperage output, 0.75amp, and put that on a 24 hour timer switch and have it on the minimum time per 24 hours, which is about 30 minutes. My thinking is that would reduce the over charging.
An old-style "trickle charger" just runs all the time and can charge excessively, but a modern battery tender cycles appropriately, and turning its power supply on and off may just confuse it. I would not want a timer switch which can fail and is not needed.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:07 PM   #10
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I've noticed my Samlex solar controller will float the batteries at 13.4v (ETI configured) but with no sun the WFCO controller seems to float them at 13.1v. I haven't researched it yet but I think floating at 13.4v is better for lead acid batteries.

I'd suggest using a true battery tender (float) "charger" in lieu of using the WFCO controller to tend your batteries (not on a timer as Brian suggests).
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:03 AM   #11
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I leave my 2014 21 plugged in whenever it's not on the road. No problems.
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