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Old 05-19-2011, 10:29 AM   #11
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

I'm coming to this tread a bit late, but better late than never.

If I read the Dometic "SmartStart" document correctly, the EU2000 will start and run the roof A/C if the ECO mode is turned off. This raises a question:

1. Is it possible to switch the generator back to the ECO mode once the A/C is running, or does a problem arise when the A/C's compressor kicks on and off? (the A/C's fan runs constantly, of course).

We used the A/C in our old Casita once or twice that I can remember, and then only to cool the trailer in the evening after it sat baking in the sun all day. The only time I've used the Escape's A/C was to try it to ensure it worked when we got the trailer. I may just opt of the EU1000i just to keep the batteries topped up when dry camping.

Dave
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:27 PM   #12
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

I think that the ECO mode can be on all the time if the SmartStart is installed. See http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...tioning-3.html for a more detailed explanation.
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:56 AM   #13
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

I have just put another 1175 km on our escape 19 hear in the yukon, and for ac voltage I have a 2000se hyundy, I purchased from wal-mart for $500.00. I do not need an AC unit.

For those with an AC unit I would suggest you go to Princess Auto, they have a 3.5kw propane powered unit for $487.00 on sale right now.

The propane powered units run just about as quiet as the inverter units, and sufficient power to run an AV as well as toast your bread.

Doug
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:07 AM   #14
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

Do you happen to know the actual decibel levels produced by the models you discussed?

Thanks;
Dave
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:01 AM   #15
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

The decibel level of a Hyundai 2000si, in the book states it is 65 @ 7 meters.

The unit on sale at Princess Auto will by virtue of a larger engine be a bit more.

The part number of the Princess Auto unit is 8190365 an All-Power Propane Generator.

The Princess Auto call center is 1-800-665-8650, this will get you the dealer nearest to you.

Remember an Alberta dealer will not charge you taxes other than gst.

Doug
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:41 AM   #16
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

We own Honda 2000i which is used mainly to charge batteries and operating the odd 110 volt appliance on occasion. Having heard many other generators in our years of camping this is definately the quietest one of the bunch. Not only does is operate and start flawlessly, you can easily carry on a conversation while it is running. If you put it in the bush next to your rv with exhaust pointed away, the noise is reduced to a low purr. It won't run our A/C though. Not really an issue as most times when we are in an un-serviced site in the north A/C is not needed.

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Old 05-27-2011, 01:44 PM   #17
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

Thank you for the information.

Dave
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:16 PM   #18
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

SmartStart Installation

The following describes how I installed a Dometic SmartStart Model #4220040 on the Dometic 600312.331 Penguin Air Conditioner on my Escape 19 Trailer. I had no problems following the instructions that came with the SmartStart, although they are somewhat general in nature since the same unit can be used on many different models of air conditioner. This write-up is not intended to be instructions for others but is rather a detailed description of what I did.

I found the job quite straightforward and would have done it in about half an hour if I hadnít kept stopping to take pictures and write notes.



I performed the entire operation without getting on the roof of the trailer by putting one foot on the top of a 6 ft stepladder and one knee one the edge of the roof. It would have been safer to use an 8 ft stepladder but I didnít own one at the time. I do now since I went out and bought one the next day.




I removed the 4 screws holding the white plastic cover on, one on each side towards the back and 2 on the front using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. I lifted the right side of the cover up and slid it half off towards the left side of the trailer. At the front of the right side there is a metal box with a wiring diagram on the cover that contains the electrical components.




I removed the 2 screws holding the cover plate on the box using a 5/16 socket and removed the cover plate. I had to carefully peel away some foam insulation to get at one of the screws. Inside the electric box there was a silver run capacitor mounted vertically at the front, a black start capacitor mounted horizontally right at the bottom, and a black PTCR (Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor) start assist mounted vertically at the back. The run capacitor has 3 terminals labelled: Fan, C (Common), and HERM (Hermetic compressor).




I removed the start capacitor. The mounting bracket is screwed to the back of the box with a sheet metal screw that has a 5/16Ē hex head. The problem is that it is almost impossible to get at the screw head with the capacitor in the bracket. One solution is to cut the bracket strap, remove the capacitor, and then remove the screw that holds the bracket in place. Another solution, and the one I used, is to use a pair of long needle nose pliers to reach behind the box where the pointy end of the screw sticks out, and loosen the screw by turning the threaded part with the pliers until the bracket is loose enough for the capacitor to slide out. I then bent the bracket until the screw head was accessible.




I removed the PTCR start assist by pulling it out of its bracket and then unscrewing the mounting screw. As you can see in the picture, there was lots of room to mount the SmartStart in the box.




I used the provided alcohol swap to clean the area where the box was to be mounted and then stuck it in place using the double sided tape that was already mounted on the SmartStart box. This type of tape takes some time to cure, so I resisted the urge to tug on the box it to see if it was firmly mounted.




I removed the white compressor run wire that was connected to the C terminal of the run capacitor. It is the fat one that goes to the compressor along with the blue and red wires, not to be confused it with the skinny white wire that goes to the fan.




I cut the flag terminal from the end of the white compressor wire. The yellow butt splice connector on the end of the brown wire from the SmartStart that it is supposed to connect to is for 10 or 12 gauge wire. Since the white wire is only 14 gauge, I didnít trust it to make a good connection. My solution was to strip Ĺ inch of insulation from the white wire and fold it back on itself to double its thickness. I then stuck the resulting ľ inch of thicker wire into the butt splice connector and crimped it.




I connected the white wire from the SmartStart to the C terminal of the run capacitor using the flag terminal already attached.




I connected the orange wire from the SmartStart to the Herm terminal of the run capacitor using the flag terminal already attached.




I connected the black wire from the SmartStart to the blue wire from the compressor. The problem here was that the blue wire just passes through the junction box but does not connect to anything. I created a bit of slack in the blue wire by undoing the fold in the wire between the box and the compressor.




I then cut the spade connector off the black wire and used a 14 gauge tap splice connector to make the connection to the blue wire. Another, and perhaps better, way to do this would have been to cut the blue wire and attach the black wire to the resulting 2 blue wires ends using a closed end crimp connector.




I tucked the wires into the box and reattached the cover by inserting the 2 tabs on the cover into the slots on the box and then fastened it in place with the 2 screws. I reattached the sticky backed foam that I had removed earlier to get at the screws.

I put the white air conditioner cover back on using the 4 Phillips head screws that I removed earlier. I made sure that the shoulders on the screws went into the slots in the cover instead of pressing on the outside of the cover.




These are the parts that I had left over when I was done.

A PDF version of the above is attached below.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SmartStart Installation.pdf (2.18 MB, 252 views)
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:50 AM   #19
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

Great job!! Did the Honda 2000i have enough "umph" to operate the A/C
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:48 PM   #20
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Re: Honda EU2000i and Dometic Penguin A/C with SmartStart

It's been too cold to give it a proper test with the generator. I did plug the trailer into an outlet and recorded a current draw of 10A at max cooling at high fan speed, which only proves that I installed the SmartStart correctly as it says nothing about the starting current. The real test will come on a really hot day when the air conditioner is running for a long time and then cycles. The instructions say to "Allow the SmartStart 5-10 start cycles to optimize itself" and I look forward to watching it learn. I will report back after I have given it a proper test on a hot day with the generator.
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