How To Winterize a Trailer - Page 7 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-07-2015, 03:30 PM   #61
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No space, the plywood is epoxied to the shell.
Yes, as Jim points out, the floor is somewhat higher than the perimeter which have trunnions (similar to a moat) built in. This allows any water that was to enter to escape by collecting around the perimeter and exit through seep holes drilled into the shell.
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Old 11-07-2015, 04:06 PM   #62
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I blew out the water lines on our 5.0TA today and am a bit concerned about water remaining in the low points. The hot and cold water lines for the sink cross over to that side by running outside of the coach next to the axle. They then re enter the coach and go to the sink. These lines are the lowest point in the system and since they are outside, must be mostly clear of water. My concern is there could be more residual water there than should be and freeze. Am I just over thinking this? Thanks, Bob
For reference, here is a photo of a 21, of the lines that run from under the foot of the bed, over to the sink. As they are PEX, they should not be inconvenienced by a small amount of frozen residual water - so I am led to believe by the PEX manufactures.

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Old 11-07-2015, 04:41 PM   #63
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I have had a lot of experience with PEX. The beauty of the stuff is that it can freeze but won't rupture. I just wish Escape would have used the brass couplings instead of the plastic ones. Loren
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Old 11-07-2015, 05:11 PM   #64
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I have had a lot of experience with PEX. The beauty of the stuff is that it can freeze but won't rupture. I just wish Escape would have used the brass couplings instead of the plastic ones. Loren
Question for Loren. How hard would it be cut the line and install a T fitting with a 1 threaded end for a cap to facilitate a drain? I think that the outside run would be a great place for a low point drain. Special tools required for the crimps? The tool too bulky for the space? I have heard that PEX will not rupture in the cold, but the plastic fittings will.
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Old 11-07-2015, 05:29 PM   #65
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I just wish Escape would have used the brass couplings instead of the plastic ones. Loren
I used to think the same thing, and mostly buy the brass ones myself, but our plumbers almost exclusively use the plastic ones, saying they are way stronger than the pipe anyway.
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Question for Loren. How hard would it be cut the line and install a T fitting with a 1 threaded end for a cap to facilitate a drain? I think that the outside run would be a great place for a low point drain. Special tools required for the crimps? The tool too bulky for the space? I have heard that PEX will not rupture in the cold, but the plastic fittings will.
That would be an easy thing to do. You do need the proper crimper to do the job, but many stores rent them. I have a few if you want to borrow one.

You do need to make certain that ALL the lines will drain back to that point. They used to do that when they installed the low-point drain, but may not worry as much now. As well, I understand the reason they went away from it, was there was no way to back drain the toilet valve they use now.
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:25 PM   #66
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I guess Jim answered all of the questions here so I won't elaborate, but I think the best way to winterize a trailer is to take it and yourselves down very far south in the US and stay there until spring. Loren
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Old 11-08-2015, 02:15 PM   #67
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Now that's funny, and very effective.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:57 AM   #68
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I was wondering on the air thing too. Thanks for the link to that fitting Donna, I will have to look for one, though I would be an RV shop would have it. An air compressor can have the output pressure adjusted to whatever you would like. If you don't have one, I bet a neighbour or friend would have one you could borrow, or you could rent one for an hour or so.

If there is a disconnect switch for the batteries, would you still need to remove the leads. There should be no chance of a current draw. And if so, should the batteries be brought in so they could get a wee trickle charge every once in a while. I will be cold storing my trailer out at on some rec land we have.
My 21 has a disconnect switch.Put am still worried about batteries freezing.So should i remove or just leave the trailer plugged into shore power. thanks
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:13 AM   #69
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My 21 has a disconnect switch.Put am still worried about batteries freezing.So should i remove or just leave the trailer plugged into shore power. thanks
You do not have to remove the batteries, just ensure they are kept fully charged with the electrolyte level topped up, and they won't freeze. It is no different than the batteries in your vehicles. If the trailer is at home, I would just plug it in a couple times over the winter for a day, or if not near home and power is available, it will not hurt to keep it plugged in.

There is nothing wrong with removing them and bringing them in the house if you want, I just find that to be too much of a hassle.
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:41 AM   #70
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I guess Jim answered all of the questions here so I won't elaborate, but I think the best way to winterize a trailer is to take it and yourselves down very far south in the US and stay there until spring. Loren
This has my vote!!
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