How To Winterize a Trailer

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

I have a device I bought at Campingworld that screws onto the water intake and has a quick connect on the other end for an air hose. Makes it a one person job. I have a tank and dual compressors on my truck. Set the pressure and I'm in business.

It's funny if you watch the ETI winterizing video above the first thing he does is toss that cheap plastic schrader style blow out plug to the side and hook up a quick connect! As pointed out by Jon these can either be made or purchased.

[flynfrfun]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Do not forget to release the fresh water supply pressure by removing the mesh filter and push the pressure release plastic pin. Pictures later

Hi Jim...can you elaborate on this? Does water get trapped on the trailer side of the valve somehow? Is this more important if you use air to winterize vs antifreeze?

I winterize with antifreeze using a 3 way valve. I think antifreeze backs up into the fresh water (city water) supply line during the process. The way I figured this out was when I de-winterized. I filled my fresh tank with water and then ran all the faucets and toilet until clear water flowed out. Then I hooked up and turned on a water hose to the fresh water (city water) line and opened the kitchen trailer faucet. A little bit more pink antifreeze ran out before it became clear again. I assume this was antifreeze that had worked it's way into the city water supply line when I winterized?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by flynfrfun

Hi Jim...can you elaborate on this? Does water get trapped on the trailer side of the valve somehow? Is this more important if you use air to winterize vs antifreeze?

I winterize with antifreeze using a 3 way valve. I think antifreeze backs up into the fresh water (city water) supply line during the process. The way I figured this out was when I de-winterized. I filled my fresh tank with water and then ran all the faucets and toilet until clear water flowed out. Then I hooked up and turned on a water hose to the fresh water (city water) line and opened the kitchen trailer faucet. A little bit more pink antifreeze ran out before it became clear again. I assume this was antifreeze that had worked it's way into the city water supply line when I winterized?

Not Jim but if you winterize with air or pump in your antifreeze via the outside hose connection (some do it with manual pump) then you are obviously clearing that section of line between the city water check valve and pump so it is moot. Pressing the check valve in to clear that section of line is just good measure when winterizing with antifreeze using a winterizing tee valve (or pulling from fresh tank) since you are pushing against existing water in that line. Just remove the screen and gently push in until you see pink. Done. (This is a carry over habit for some that may have watched the old Scamp winterizing video - screenshot attached). I'll be honest though - many people never do this and don't have a problem since the antifreeze should mix with the remaining water in that section of line and prevent issues. Also doing this is not required if you have an older trailer with a low point drain and use it to empty the system of water before winterizing. That section of line should drain with the rest of the plumbing.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by oldwave

I use a small portable air compressor by Lowe’s brand Kobalt. It locks on the nipple of the adaptor and you can dial pressure you want not exceed. Worked great . Cheap, as I own batteries for other tools in the system .

Ryobi has one, too. Which makes me wonder if my tire pump would work the same way.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Also doing this is not required if you have an older trailer with a low point drain and use it to empty the system of water before winterizing. That section of line should drain with the rest of the plumbing.

I was thinking this step is actually a hold-over from when trailers (like mine ) were equipped with the low-point drain. If you push antifreeze or air through that back flow valve there should be no water to freeze. If you have and use a low-point drain, an ounce of water remains at the valve because there is no venting.

[Fox hunt]

i have some/small amount of water in my grey tank /black tank- OK not to dump when winterizing ? its hard to do from home they are big tanks

[flynfrfun]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

... I'll be honest though - many people never do this and don't have a problem since the antifreeze should mix with the remaining water in that section of line and prevent issues. Also doing this is not required if you have an older trailer with a low point drain and use it to empty the system of water before winterizing. That section of line should drain with the rest of the plumbing.

Thanks! I think what you said above is what is happening in my case...the antifreeze is mixing with the water in the city water supply line. Next time I will use the low point drain first to make sure there is no water in the city water supply line.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

Ryobi has one, too. Which makes me wonder if my tire pump would work the same way.

The kobalt lets you dial in the desired pressure, I’m not sure if the Ryobi does.

[Hawkeye Ed]

Quote:
<Originally Posted by oldwave View Post
I use a small portable air compressor by Lowe’s brand Kobalt. It locks on the nipple of the adaptor and you can dial pressure you want not exceed. Worked great . Cheap, as I own batteries for other tools in the system .

Ryobi has one, too. Which makes me wonder if my tire pump would work the same way.>

I do the same with my Makita 18 volt portable air compressor. The chuck locks on to the nipple of the city water's plastic Schrader adapter and I run a piece of black tape around the handle to hold the trigger on.

It probably wouldn't hurt to set the air pressure to 30 psi or so in case you turned on the compressor with every water valve closed. I then go around the trailer and turn on valves one by one until all the water is blown out. I find more water comes out of the outside shower fixture than other valves, perhaps because it's lower than the inside faucets and the toilet valve.

PS. Don't forget before blowing out the lines to empty the hot water tank and reinstall the anode/plug; and empty the fresh water tank and run the pump until water stops coming out of an open faucet.

We only use about half a gallon of the pink stuff for the sinks and bath floor drain.

Here's a question: What's the purpose of the valve near the toilet that shuts off toilet water? I left the valve open so I could pull the toilet lever when blowing out the lines and don't understand the need for the toilet shutoff valve.

Thanks

Ed

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye Ed

Here’s a question: What's the purpose of the valve near the toilet that shuts off toilet water? I left the valve open so I could pull the toilet lever when blowing out the lines and don't understand the need for the toilet shutoff valve.

It’s for if you ever have an issue with the toilet flush valve. You can isolate and still keep the rest of your water system operational. Nothing to do with winterizing.

[cpaharley2008]

If you look at your home plumbing set up you should see a shut off valve for each water using appliance. That way it can be isolated when replacing in lieu of shutting down the entire house.

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

i have some/small amount of water in my grey tank /black tank- OK not to dump when winterizing ? its hard to do from home they are big tanks

The black and gray tanks, IMHO, should be empty. The last thing I want to freeze and break are the waste gates. I use blow out method to winterize so I usually wind up with a bit of water going into toilet. I catch any water from the sinks in a container. After all lines are cleared, before adding antifreeze to the traps I drain the black and gray into a bucket (be sure you know your tanks are basically empty or it won’t be pretty &#128563. I then just dump bucket in my home toilet. Then I add the antifreeze to the traps, adding extra so that some gets into tank and will dilute any water that may still be in there and dump a quart into toilet. Sounds more complicated than it is 😎

[Bobbie54]

I asked awhile back about why you bypass the hot water tank. I get it with the antifreeze method where you suck air into the fresh water system-sort of.

Why do you bypass the hot water tank when winterizing with compressed air? it seems like you'd end up with some water left in the hot water tank that way. You are only putting antifreeze in the drains.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I asked awhile back about why you bypass the hot water tank. I get it with the antifreeze method where you suck air into the fresh water system-sort of.

Why do you bypass the hot water tank when winterizing with compressed air? it seems like you'd end up with some water left in the hot water tank that way. You are only putting antifreeze in the drains.

Any time your trailer is not going to be used for an extended period, the hot water tank anode rod should be removed. Once you remove the anode rod, the hot water heater will drain. The anode rod should be left removed until the trailer is put back in service.

So, bypass the hot water heater, remove the anode rod, and the hot water heater is winterized. Removing the anode rod should be part of winterizing with compressed air.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Any time your trailer is not going to be used for an extended period, the hot water tank anode rod should be removed. Once you remove the anode rod, the hot water heater will drain. The anode rod should be left removed until the trailer is put back in service.

So, bypass the hot water heater, remove the anode rod, and the hot water heater is winterized. Removing the anode rod should be part of winterizing with compressed air.

The Escape info says "reinstall the anode rod" as part of the process. But it does make sense to leave it out. https://escapetrailer.com/winterizing-your-escape/

[gbaglo]

I reinstall the anode as per instructions. If there is no water in the heater, there is nothing for the anode to react with. Putting it back prevents foreign objects from entering and ... you know where you left the anode.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I asked awhile back about why you bypass the hot water tank. I get it with the antifreeze method where you suck air into the fresh water system-sort of.

Why do you bypass the hot water tank when winterizing with compressed air? it seems like you'd end up with some water left in the hot water tank that way. You are only putting antifreeze in the drains.

It makes sense to bypass because you don't want to have to fill that 6 gallon volume with air as it will hinder you building system pressure until it is completely full. Depending on the volumetric flowrate (CFM) of your compressed air source this can be inconvenient. The hot water tank can simply be drained by relieving the pressure via the safety valve and removing the anode. Any little bit of water remaining has plenty of room to expand and will not cause an issue. Put the anode aside or put it back in - either way you will be fine. Some like to put it back in to keep the threads from rusting or so they don't misplace it. The only thing you definitely don't want is antifreeze in the water heater with the anode submerged.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

It makes sense to bypass because you don't want to have to fill that 6 gallon volume with air as it will hinder you building system pressure until it is completely full. Depending on the volumetric flowrate (CFM) of your compressed air source this can be inconvenient. The hot water tank can simply be drained by relieving the pressure via the safety valve and removing the anode. Any little bit of water remaining has plenty of room to expand and will not cause an issue. Put the anode aside or put it back in - either way you will be fine. Some like to put it back in to keep the threads from rusting or so they don't misplace it. The only thing you definitely don't want is antifreeze in the water heater with the anode submerged.

That makes sense, thanks.

[cpaharley2008]

I found a nice wine bottle cork that fits the water heater opening.........

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I found a nice wine bottle cork that fits the water heater opening.........

And what did you do with the anode? What did you do?