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Old 10-11-2022, 08:35 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jean and Dale View Post
We are winterizing for the first time and would appreciate recommendations for an air compressor. We don’t need one for house projects - just for winterizing.
Thank you
Also good for tires…
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Old 10-11-2022, 09:35 PM   #162
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A small compressor will do

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Originally Posted by Jean and Dale View Post
We are new owner as of 96 hours. We’d appreciate input regarding air compressors for winterizing. We want to buy a smaller compressor as we have no need for a household “tool” compressor. Thank you
Congratulations on your new escape! We purchased a small compressor with a 2 gallon tank. It’s great for inflating tires and there’s enough oomph to flush the lines.
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Old 10-12-2022, 07:33 AM   #163
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Sad but true
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Old 10-12-2022, 07:40 AM   #164
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I carry this pump in the trailer for all the tires.

https://www.dewalt.com/product/dcc02...s-air-inflator
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Old 11-08-2022, 06:38 PM   #165
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Earlier in this thread someone mentioned a low-point drain:

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...html#post19664

My son's new KZ hybrid camper has one. But I haven't seen one (or mention of one) in our 2019 Escape 21C. Did Escape drop the low-point drain? Why? Seems like an obvious aid to an RV that needs winterizing every year (and more often for folks who go back and forth between north and south in winter).

I bought a 6-gallon compressor to use for winterizing our Casita last year. But I'd rather not carry it if we decide to go to Florida.
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Old 11-08-2022, 07:20 PM   #166
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There was a period when low point drains (hot and cold) were installed on Escapes.. Our 2010 19 had one. If memory serves in about 2013 the flush valves changed on the Thetford toilets. Low point drains were still being installed and the valve had always worked for winterizing . However the new valve “perched” water and would freeze in cold weather cracking the valve. So while our 2013 21 was equipped with a pair of low point drains and fortunately first purchased and used till 2017 by a Tucson based owner it wasn’t winterized till we got it. By then the valve problem was identified and the installation of low point drains were dropped. So you may encounter an Escape with them but not on the newer trailers. I pump RV Antifreeze through the system with a Camco hand pump. It takes a gallon and a quart to winterize our trailer. I do not have a winterizing T valve so I take the hoses and the strainer cap off the water pump and put a towel on the floor. I get about 5 or 6 ounces of water and don’t worry all winter. If you use the winterizing t valve, make sure you depress the backflow valve behind the city water inlet. Otherwise there’s water perched between the inlet and the t valve. Hope this helps.

I’m sure others have better info than I do, but I’ve not frozen anything in the Escape yet.

Anecdote alert:
When I was working I had an irrigated soccer complex. 925 irrigation heads with 125 control valves. Took a couple days to blow the system the first time through. . And then about a half a day to reblow a couple days later to catch the drain back low spots. Two 6 cylinder diesel compressors, about 5 people opening and closing valves using walkie-talkies on 50 acres of soccer turf. Angst, till it was done. Then wait for spring.

Winterized my pressure washer today, already had my sprayer done. Escape done in mid October. Cold weather coming.

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Old 11-08-2022, 07:29 PM   #167
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Thanks, Dave— Not sure I understand the connection between the toilet valve and the low-point drains, but in any case, my 2019 doesn't have them.

Last year I decided not to use RV antifreeze, as it's hard to get the taste out. The compressor blow-out method worked well on our Casita, and I plan to use it again on our Escape.

So how do I avoid the 'perching' problem with the toilet valve?
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Old 11-08-2022, 07:42 PM   #168
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People assumed that when they opened the low point drain, that the water drained out of the valve by itself. They didn’t necessarily open the flush valve and or push either air or antifreeze though it. The faces on valves have gaskets or on metal valves a machined face. Like a quarter turn Apollo ball valve. However the casting that the ball sets in has a cavity that water stays in unless valve is left partially open. If it’s left closed or even wide open depending upon the positioning of the valve it can freeze and split the casing. So once I learned that we left all the valves at the 5 municipal pools that were under my purview half open. It also gave us the freedom to “exercise” the valve in the spring if it was “sticky” .
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Old 11-08-2022, 09:15 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
People assumed that when they opened the low point drain, that the water drained out of the valve by itself. They didn’t necessarily open the flush valve and or push either air or antifreeze though it. The faces on valves have gaskets or on metal valves a machined face. Like a quarter turn Apollo ball valve. However the casting that the ball sets in has a cavity that water stays in unless valve is left partially open. If it’s left closed or even wide open depending upon the positioning of the valve it can freeze and split the casing. So once I learned that we left all the valves at the 5 municipal pools that were under my purview half open. It also gave us the freedom to “exercise” the valve in the spring if it was “sticky” .
Iowa Dave
So should we somehow prop the toilet valve open? Or will just opening it when I'm blowing out the lines take care of the problem?
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Old 11-08-2022, 09:36 PM   #170
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I think propping it open would be adequate. But since I winterize with antifreeze I can’t say for sure. Others in cold climates who use air and not antifreeze likely could let you know their technique.
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Old 11-08-2022, 10:18 PM   #171
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A proper prop[

I utilize a shard of a foam pool float to keep the toilet ball closure open and the valve activated. I also leave that item in place during the winter to "condition" and dry out the tank. The black/grey tank valves are left open and a screened cap is covering the main waste exit cap. So far, so good.

FWIW, I only use compressed air to blow the lines. I do a thorough job of that, and haven't had an issue for 10+ years. I just avoid the antifreeze juice in the lines, unless it is cheap vodka, which works well too as an trailer antifreeze. It's hard to find cheap anything these days. OK...value priced is a better term, not cheap.

Salud! Cheers! Nazarovya!
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Old 11-08-2022, 10:32 PM   #172
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I utilize a shard of a foam pool float to keep the toilet ball closure open and the valve activated. I also leave that item in place during the winter to "condition" and dry out the tank. The black/grey tank valves are left open and a screened cap is covering the main waste exit cap. So far, so good.

FWIW, I only use compressed air to blow the lines. I do a thorough job of that, and haven't had an issue for 10+ years. I just avoid the antifreeze juice in the lines, unless it is cheap vodka, which works well too as an trailer antifreeze. It's hard to find cheap anything these days. OK...value priced is a better term, not cheap.

Salud! Cheers! Nazarovya!
Black tank was cleaned, and now has a gallon of water with a few ounces of Odorlos. I figured I'd throw some antifreeze in it—but you think I should let it empty and leave open? Have to finagle some kind of screen cap.
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Old 11-09-2022, 06:26 AM   #173
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I figured I'd throw some antifreeze in it—but you think I should let it empty and leave open? Have to finagle some kind of screen cap.
Do as you think best, but around here in frozen tundra wasteland Wisconsin, with Polar Vortexes whacking us come Winter, leaving water in the tank is not what I'd do.

The screened cap is easy. Just get a sewer hose twist-on end connector, cut a disc of screen larger than needed (metal screen, if you have) and use a band clamp to hold the screen in place. I use a wrist bracelet (a freebie give-away molded of silicone rubber) to hold my chunk of screen. The bracelet is just a big, robust rubber band.
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Old 11-10-2022, 07:17 AM   #174
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I read somewhere that when STORING your RV that you should air up the tires to their max tire pressure reading on the tire. Does anyone do this? What is the benefit? We don't winterize our trailer, per se, as we don't have temperatures that require it here in Mesa, Arizona. We do store the trailer in our side yard when not using it.
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Old 11-10-2022, 08:21 AM   #175
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Originally Posted by kathytony1985 View Post
I read somewhere that when STORING your RV that you should air up the tires to their max tire pressure reading on the tire. Does anyone do this? What is the benefit? We don't winterize our trailer, per se, as we don't have temperatures that require it here in Mesa, Arizona. We do store the trailer in our side yard when not using it.
In well over 30 years of owning 2-3 trailers I have never done this and have actually never heard of it. Most of my trailer tires are at near maximum anyway, but still, I would not worry. I do winterize an RV here in Calgary.
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Old 11-10-2022, 08:35 AM   #176
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Originally Posted by MrLynn View Post
Thanks, Dave— Not sure I understand the connection between the toilet valve and the low-point drains, but in any case, my 2019 doesn't have them.

Last year I decided not to use RV antifreeze, as it's hard to get the taste out. The compressor blow-out method worked well on our Casita, and I plan to use it again on our Escape.

So how do I avoid the 'perching' problem with the toilet valve?
I don't use antifreeze either. I do not like the looks of it coming out the faucet or the taste. This Spring I picked up the trailer in below zero temperatures, took it home and filled it up. The pump would not work and I thought I screwed things up royally now. Nope, once we hit warmer temperatures everything was fine.

I blow out the camper thoroughly every Autumn and every time I use it with water in it through the Winter. No problem so far. I even made my own fittings which works great.

When possible I always travel with full water for stability reasons.
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Old 11-10-2022, 12:33 PM   #177
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. . . I blow out the camper thoroughly every Autumn and every time I use it with water in it through the Winter. No problem so far. I even made my own fittings which works great.

When possible I always travel with full water for stability reasons.

?? You blow out the camper in the Autumn, and then fill it with water and use the water during the Winter? Why blow it out, then? And how do you keep the pipes from freezing?
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Old 11-10-2022, 01:45 PM   #178
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Winterized!

Just winterized!


- Fresh water tank (already drained).



- Drained hot-water tank (after switch to by-pass); still have a piece of towel in it wicking water from the bottom.


- Connected air compressor to city-water inlet and blew out the lines, one faucet at a time (including the outside one).


- Ran 12v pump for half a minute or so, sucking air from the pipe in the storage compartment intended to suck anti-freeze. I figure this is drying out the pump. With my Casita, I disconnected the pump and blew air directly into it.


- Following Dave's suggestion, I used a piece of scrap wood to block the toilet valve open.


- Following habberdabber's suggestion, I emptied black and grey tanks, left the dump valves open, and put a piece of screening over the opening.


- Poured half a gallon of RV antifreeze into the bathroom sink, shower, and kitchen sink drains, for the traps.



OK Winter; I think we're ready. We're probably not taking Farther Along out before March. If we did, wouldn't use any tanks until we got to warm-enough climes.
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Old 11-10-2022, 01:51 PM   #179
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Did you make sure there’s no water in the shower hose? It loops down and up
And so iit needs to be taken off and drained or you can hold it up vertically and push the button to open and the sink to divert and it should back drain . I usually just unscrew ours and drain it and then put it back on the fitting by the faucet.
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Old 11-10-2022, 02:30 PM   #180
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Hi folks. Longtime listener (lurker) but first time caller. Very appreciative of the Forum.

I had wondered why I had not seen any reference for RVs to what is a standard practice here (at least in this part of the Canadian prairies) of leaving all faucets and valves (say, in an underground watering system) half open after blowing them out to give ice a place to expand.

So winterizing here (with compressed air and, on a 2009 17b with a low-point drain) finishes with leaving all of the faucets partially open. Only two years experience with this, but no problems despite deep cold.

mta

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
People assumed that when they opened the low point drain, that the water drained out of the valve by itself. They didn’t necessarily open the flush valve and or push either air or antifreeze though it. The faces on valves have gaskets or on metal valves a machined face. Like a quarter turn Apollo ball valve. However the casting that the ball sets in has a cavity that water stays in unless valve is left partially open. If it’s left closed or even wide open depending upon the positioning of the valve it can freeze and split the casing. So once I learned that we left all the valves at the 5 municipal pools that were under my purview half open. It also gave us the freedom to “exercise” the valve in the spring if it was “sticky” .
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