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11-07-2015, 03:30 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
No space, the plywood is epoxied to the shell.
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Yes, as Jim points out, the floor is somewhat higher than the perimeter which have trunnions (similar to a moat) built in. This allows any water that was to enter to escape by collecting around the perimeter and exit through seep holes drilled into the shell.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-07-2015, 04:06 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-twnbob
I blew out the water lines on our 5.0TA today and am a bit concerned about water remaining in the low points. The hot and cold water lines for the sink cross over to that side by running outside of the coach next to the axle. They then re enter the coach and go to the sink. These lines are the lowest point in the system and since they are outside, must be mostly clear of water. My concern is there could be more residual water there than should be and freeze. Am I just over thinking this? Thanks, Bob
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For reference, here is a photo of a 21, of the lines that run from under the foot of the bed, over to the sink. As they are PEX, they should not be inconvenienced by a small amount of frozen residual water - so I am led to believe by the PEX manufactures.
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Alan
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11-07-2015, 04:41 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Trailer: 2015 21ft Escape "Spirit of the Plains", 2014 GMC Sierra with max tow package
Posts: 1,100
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I have had a lot of experience with PEX. The beauty of the stuff is that it can freeze but won't rupture. I just wish Escape would have used the brass couplings instead of the plastic ones. Loren
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11-07-2015, 05:11 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Trailer: '15 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy
I have had a lot of experience with PEX. The beauty of the stuff is that it can freeze but won't rupture. I just wish Escape would have used the brass couplings instead of the plastic ones. Loren
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Question for Loren. How hard would it be cut the line and install a T fitting with a 1 threaded end for a cap to facilitate a drain? I think that the outside run would be a great place for a low point drain. Special tools required for the crimps? The tool too bulky for the space? I have heard that PEX will not rupture in the cold, but the plastic fittings will.
__________________
2013 GMC Sierra CC Max Tow
2011 Casita 17 SD-sold
2015 Escape 5.0TA-sold
"How can I be lost, if I have no place to go"
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11-07-2015, 05:29 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy
I just wish Escape would have used the brass couplings instead of the plastic ones. Loren
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I used to think the same thing, and mostly buy the brass ones myself, but our plumbers almost exclusively use the plastic ones, saying they are way stronger than the pipe anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-twnbob
Question for Loren. How hard would it be cut the line and install a T fitting with a 1 threaded end for a cap to facilitate a drain? I think that the outside run would be a great place for a low point drain. Special tools required for the crimps? The tool too bulky for the space? I have heard that PEX will not rupture in the cold, but the plastic fittings will.
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That would be an easy thing to do. You do need the proper crimper to do the job, but many stores rent them. I have a few if you want to borrow one.
You do need to make certain that ALL the lines will drain back to that point. They used to do that when they installed the low-point drain, but may not worry as much now. As well, I understand the reason they went away from it, was there was no way to back drain the toilet valve they use now.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-07-2015, 10:25 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Trailer: 2015 21ft Escape "Spirit of the Plains", 2014 GMC Sierra with max tow package
Posts: 1,100
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I guess Jim answered all of the questions here so I won't elaborate, but I think the best way to winterize a trailer is to take it and yourselves down very far south in the US and stay there until spring. Loren
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11-08-2015, 02:15 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,494
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Now that's funny, and very effective.
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11-09-2015, 07:57 AM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2011 Escape 15A/2015 21 coming in march
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
I was wondering on the air thing too. Thanks for the link to that fitting Donna, I will have to look for one, though I would be an RV shop would have it. An air compressor can have the output pressure adjusted to whatever you would like. If you don't have one, I bet a neighbour or friend would have one you could borrow, or you could rent one for an hour or so.
If there is a disconnect switch for the batteries, would you still need to remove the leads. There should be no chance of a current draw. And if so, should the batteries be brought in so they could get a wee trickle charge every once in a while. I will be cold storing my trailer out at on some rec land we have.
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My 21 has a disconnect switch.Put am still worried about batteries freezing.So should i remove or just leave the trailer plugged into shore power. thanks
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11-09-2015, 08:13 AM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLYBGR
My 21 has a disconnect switch.Put am still worried about batteries freezing.So should i remove or just leave the trailer plugged into shore power. thanks
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You do not have to remove the batteries, just ensure they are kept fully charged with the electrolyte level topped up, and they won't freeze. It is no different than the batteries in your vehicles. If the trailer is at home, I would just plug it in a couple times over the winter for a day, or if not near home and power is available, it will not hurt to keep it plugged in.
There is nothing wrong with removing them and bringing them in the house if you want, I just find that to be too much of a hassle.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-09-2015, 10:41 AM
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#70
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Trailer: '15 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy
I guess Jim answered all of the questions here so I won't elaborate, but I think the best way to winterize a trailer is to take it and yourselves down very far south in the US and stay there until spring. Loren
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This has my vote!!
__________________
2013 GMC Sierra CC Max Tow
2011 Casita 17 SD-sold
2015 Escape 5.0TA-sold
"How can I be lost, if I have no place to go"
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11-09-2015, 02:41 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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No crimper needed for this install. Just a hacksaw. Shut off valve is compression fitting, Home Depot.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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11-09-2015, 02:52 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
No crimper needed for this install. Just a hacksaw. Shut off valve is compression fitting, Home Depot.
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Hi Myron . Is the body of valve brass and what size diameter of the line . Pat
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11-09-2015, 03:06 PM
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#73
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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It is brass. For 1/2 inch line, if I read the raised info on it correctly. Check my picture up close. As I recall cutting the PEX the correct opening is critical. Measure carefully. PEX is extremely stiff --had very limited space to move the lines back away then jam into the valve.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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11-09-2015, 04:45 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
It is brass. For 1/2 inch line, if I read the raised info on it correctly. Check my picture up close. As I recall cutting the PEX the correct opening is critical. Measure carefully. PEX is extremely stiff --had very limited space to move the lines back away then jam into the valve.
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Thanks Myron ! Pat
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11-09-2015, 09:21 PM
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#75
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Boise, Idaho
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21
Posts: 79
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battery maintenance
We too do not want to have to lug the batteries (dual 6v) into the house but the trailer is stored in a facility with no power... (but only about 2 miles from home)
Here are the options we are considering
1) Use the battery disconnect switch to protect against loads from LEDs, monitors etc then stop by with the Jeep every few weeks and give it a short "boost" by engaging the batteries and hooking it to the Jeep for a charge if the battery panel shows less than full charge. If necessary to run longer than 20-30 minutes then choice 2 would better.
2) Disengage the batteries but bring home every month to leave connected to the 110v outlet for a day before returning to its storage place.
3) Leave the batteries on and installing a 10 Watt solar trickle charger (Go Power) which connects through the 7pin round connector. The solar panel would likely only get 2-3 hours of direct sun per day and could have overcast days for a couple weeks at a time.
Boise winter temps are usually in the 0-40 degrees F range.
Which idea seems the best
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11-09-2015, 09:31 PM
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#76
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Olympia, Washington
Trailer: 2016 Escape 5.0TA has gone to a good home in Manitoba. Now Class B+ owners sadly not an Escape
Posts: 460
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Those batteries are heavy! We pulled them out in the fall and kept them on a battery tender in our heated garage until spring.
__________________
Jan and Paul
"Le Bon Oeuf"
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11-09-2015, 09:43 PM
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#77
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain_gal
We too do not want to have to lug the batteries (dual 6v) into the house but the trailer is stored in a facility with no power... (but only about 2 miles from home)
Here are the options we are considering
1) Use the battery disconnect switch to protect against loads from LEDs, monitors etc then stop by with the Jeep every few weeks and give it a short "boost" by engaging the batteries and hooking it to the Jeep for a charge if the battery panel shows less than full charge. If necessary to run longer than 20-30 minutes then choice 2 would better.
2) Disengage the batteries but bring home every month to leave connected to the 110v outlet for a day before returning to its storage place.
3) Leave the batteries on and installing a 10 Watt solar trickle charger (Go Power) which connects through the 7pin round connector. The solar panel would likely only get 2-3 hours of direct sun per day and could have overcast days for a couple weeks at a time.
Boise winter temps are usually in the 0-40 degrees F range.
Which idea seems the best
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I would opt for #3. You should still monitor once in awhile to ensure the voltage is up, but with no draw, you should be just fine. Taking the batteries out is an avoidable pain in the butt.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-09-2015, 10:16 PM
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#78
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2013, 17B 'Mini Pearl' and a 2010 Highlander
Posts: 400
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I would go with #3 with the solar panel connected right onto the batteries and the battery disconnect switch in the position that disconnects the batteries from any power drain.
__________________
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John
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11-09-2015, 10:25 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxoco
I would go with #3 with the solar panel connected right onto the batteries and the battery disconnect switch in the position that disconnects the batteries from any power drain.
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That's worked for me on boats for many years.
Ron
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11-09-2015, 10:58 PM
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#80
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Jeromesville, Ohio
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxoco
I would go with #3 with the solar panel connected right onto the batteries and the battery disconnect switch in the position that disconnects the batteries from any power drain.
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I added an SAE port to plug into the input side of the gopower controller. I bought one of the 10 watt solar battery chargers to plug in while the trailer is covered for the winter. Also it serves for a plug in for a future 120 watt folding panel for boondocking. Port is wired in parallel to rooftop panel.
__________________
Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
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